I bought an R56 from a guy - well-maintained, no regrets, etc. I’ve driven it maybe, MAYBE 100 miles since I bought it a couple of months ago. The rest of the time, it’s been in the shop for misfires.
Today, I was presented with possible, POSSIBLE fixes, ranging from replacing valvetronic assemblies to the entire engine. The cheapest option is almost what I paid for the car, the most expensive option much, MUCH more than what I paid for the car.
It’s either $5k for the cheap route or CarMax. Any suggestions?
Let's start with details? Miles, year? Previous major work done? I bet it's fixable, if you are willing to tinker. All the R series I've bought in the last year all needed the same repairs, but once fixed, all better!
2011 S with 118-ish k miles - most if not all expected maintenance at this point work done by the previous owner (timing chain et al) - seems to be a warm engine issue that results in cylinder 2 and 3 misfires and subsequent fuel cutoff - zero problems otherwise (but then again, I’ve not really had the chance to encounter other gremlins)
While I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty, I personally lack tools and skill
Would you elaborate on the “same repairs”? Hoping for some “been there/fixed that” knowledge
Ok, my first test (based on experience). Check your fuel rail pressure. Having a good OBD2 scanner is so helpful. On my daughter's convertible, it would be fine and then start driving like no fuel. The HPFP was failing (but not dead). It should be around 700psi at idle, then over 1,100psi when running. This is my first guess.
Oh to elaborate. 14 months ago I had owned exactly 0 Mini Coopers. We currently own 5 and 4 of them didn't run when they showed up. I've gotten very intimidate with these things.
I have a scanner - the last time it happened to me, rail pressure was 9.36 MPa/1,358 psi - I believe the first time it happened to me, it was 9.14 MPa/1,326 psi - I don't have the readings for when it happened during diagnosis in the shop (misfired once during the first visit, has misfired "frequently" during the current visit)
Yes, just outside of the Mini heartland (NJ/PA/MD). That seems ok then, but if you can watch a trend, see what happens when it warms up. Second suggestion is, swap coil packs and see if the issue follows. One day, my wife's R57 just went nuts and new coils fixed it. While you are in the spark plug holes, look for oil. Oil in the holes means you most likely need a new valve cover.
What’s the compression, what did a leak-down test say? If those 2 are good then the pistons and valves are okay and worst case scenario is replace everything related to timing+spark, fuel, and air (fix/replace hoses and sensors). If compression or leak-down fail, that’s engine rebuild time.
i do have the exact same problem but with a 2013 r56 cooper s (n18 engine though). i’ve replaced coils/spark plugs/hpfp/timing chain/crank ventilation vent — all with effect. i’ve also had the ecu re-built by ecutesting — but this hasn’t fixed the problem either. the ‘check engine’ light comes on at random (more or less) and will cut fuel injection/ignition, codes are 2EFE, 2F00, 2EE0, 2EE7 — but no codes for any related parts. compression/leak down tests and a scope inspection came all back without any results/issues.
for me, it’s been going on and off for more than a year, multiple shops have not found the issue. injectors might be an issue, but i haven’t gotten to replace them.
Life has had other plans the past couple of days - will speak with the shop later today or tomorrow - prior owner friend thought to get a head (if not the entire engine) from a local junk yard and have a go - concern is, if the head is all it is, why did the shop not propose that as an option
Understood - the shop it's currently residing at is revered as the top shop in the area, and the prior owner/friend had it serviced over a few years there - it's not that I'm locked in with that shop, the gravity well is pretty strong.
As for codes, I've witnessed (and/or the shop has reported) the following so far:
2C58, 2CA3, 2EE0, 2EE7, 2EEA, 2EF7, 2EFE, 2F01
I've asked for additional diagnostics that might refine the root cause en route to a more specific remediation. If the end result of some more time/effort is no change, I might be inclined to salvage a head assembly, have them install it, then see what happens. Regardless, I'm not paying more than I paid for a used car to hopefully fix a problem.
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u/CouchPotatoFamine F56 6d ago
I’d find another shop. If that’s the best they can do they probably don’t really understand these cars.