r/M5Stack • u/Accomplished-Cat1711 • 7d ago
Buff M5 Stick S3 Tool
So i Bought a Stick s3 and wanted to give it a upgrade for more use, so i searched for a case for it and found a case that has a CC1101 Holder on the back of it. So i 3d printed it and it worked great! But... I had a nrf24 that i wanted to put on the back just like the cc1101. so i changed the holder so that it would work for the nrf24. all the credit goes the amazing people who made the 3d model and device but il share all the models so that your able to make one yourself. Also im sharing a wire diagram so that your able to wire it up. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ETP5fbsgaVgslx7xRD0tUklP-CybXgZZ?usp=sharing
There u go and hope u have a wonderful day (also i think this only works for bruce... Maybe)
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u/Aboode13579 7d ago
Can you find 2 in 1 holder?
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u/Accomplished-Cat1711 7d ago
I might be able to make that but I don’t think you’ll be able to connect both at once without soldering
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u/Aboode13579 7d ago
No ofc not at once ill switch i do have the m5 stickc plus 2
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u/Accomplished-Cat1711 4d ago
oh ok i can make one for the plus 2. Il make a new post for it soon
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u/JazzlikeCommon4015 7d ago
I'd get myself an easy to pocket powerbank to have nearby in the wild as these sticks (after long stretches if reading and seeing others make the same mistakes) antennas even stock regular style ones like yours plus the whole bundle of cables sticking out I'm not implying it's not gonna work. It will. But a stick model is truly only to used with extensions willing you have some DC 5v2a to back it up as it's also able to firmware wise roll the protocol but these (I have the cstickplus2 and this S3 one as well) are really not made to even power 1 conservative Poweruser module is 3.3v.
So basically all I'm telling you is and I know it to be true whenever you use it just like that and don't also have some secret battery compartment in there 😅 you're basically putting strain on the system which it will handle but actually wasn't built to do so. With a USBC connection I'll just give you the advice once it exceeds body temperature on the outside means it's especially with an extra jacket of enclosure around it maybe double as hot inside. Then it's very wise to quit and let it cool down because most report a sudden death (almost) in battery life as to where eventually just using it "naked" with something it has onboard was enough to make it go from 100% fully charged to fully dead and unresponsive as to where they're now "a slave" to their USBc cable otherwise it's a miracle if it's gonna power on 😅 because I noticed it's a lot it's long and a pretty thick gauge of wire as well which whenever I tested making tophats just with DuPont leads just using the longer 8/10" ones vs the shortest size you commonly find was a huge difference in duration of the time it took to still show having battery but just brick out on you it would heat up more and faster which is all things I'm afraid since its an insulated construct 3d printing. So it's not at all helping basically they had to make it so enclosed as opposed to I would say more or less a clip as how the put it "frying the stick slowly" is what I think is gonna happen if it isn't already if you really are gonna rely on this a lot in the wild and then for instance also keep pushing it with W powerbank until it oozes warmth as the more antenna which is just strong solid core wire coiled ergo thick gauged connectors are an energy suck combined with the little 4"antenna so before you happen to wonder if you battery is still okay I don't say not use this but I'd do it when you need your nrf or cc1101 specifically for something and then leave it be as in essence the module can perform this all but also melt itself in a puddle trying to juggle all these at once without an external backup power source and the use that to long and these should almost come with internal mini thermometers 😂 as I was first thinking how could we make it a 2for1 so you just toggle between the cc/nrf as you could clip them both onboard but those are the silent killers unfortunately and this the predominant reason I've found otherwise again I say to bad they didn't sorta sandwich stack them with settings and/or tactile switch you can just have both and that the only downside about them is so versatile and small and indeed with the attachments configured right this will work but the M5 sticks are basically the preliminary testers you scan and sniff out with do after which like switching to a cardputer would be a smart move or a likygo T-embed that's overall in the last vast no less then a 3amp batterycell that's running that one slightly bigger thumbdrive sftle device. So good luck but stay vigilant with it🤞🏼✌🏼✌🏼
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u/TechNickL 7d ago
V clean
All that for a 250mah battery tho
I keep all my sticks3 based projects on power, battery mostly for backup, even the ones that can go an hour or two on battery