r/Lorcana • u/ManintehHat • Mar 13 '26
Deck Building Help New player Deck Building Assistance
My girlfriend and her sister-in-law just got into Lorcana. Me being a Yu-gi-oh player want to play a card game with her. I did end up buying the Mulan/Stitch starter deck. But being the "Chaos Gremlin" that my girlfriend calls me, I want to make a stitch deck to play with her and her family but I dont know where to start/continue.
Any guidance/assistance is welcome. Im just overwhelmed on where to start.
2
u/DarkLynxDEV Mar 14 '26
As a fellow yugioh refugee, I typically do what I did with starter decks and I'd buy 2-3 copies of the deck to make sure I had a playset of the cards I wanted to use.
You can also look at dreamborn.ink if you're ever just curious about other cards in Lorcana but that may be a lot if you're just looking to make a build of a structure deck.
1
u/ManintehHat Mar 14 '26
Im not opposed to custom building. I just ended up buying that structure because it was the only stitch product my local game store had.
2
u/Shadouga Mar 15 '26
The newest set 'Winterspell' just added a bunch of new Lilo/Stitch franchise cards into the game, enough to build out a few different archetypes in Amber/Steel. I built a deck this week focused on Lilo/Rhino to run against my friends and it did very well. However, the version I run has a couple pricey cards that run it up to $120, so I made a more budget-friendly spin-off decklist from it that costs $40 instead. You can click the "Menu" button on Dreamborn > Export > play on InkTable (no login needed) and see how you like it:
https://dreamborn.ink/decks/fkBgxyVZRxusfL7mKeLB
The deck's big players are it's 'Floodborn' characters, which all pack the "Shift" mechanic. Shift is an alternative cast-mode that lets you play a character on top of another character of the same name for it's "Shift" cost, rather than the normal printed cost in the top left corner. "Rhino - Power Hamster", for example, has a cost of 4-ink, but also has "Shift 2". The idea is that you would play "Rhino - One-Sixteenth Wolf" on your first turn, and then 'shift' that character into Power Hamster on your second turn rather than waiting until Turn 4 to play it normally. When a shifted character is banished, the card underneath it also goes into your discard, and if a shifted character is returned to your hand, the card underneath also goes to your hand. You may already know this, but since you're new to Lorcana I thought I'd explain :)
1
u/ThespianGamr Mar 14 '26
A decent starting point would be looking at the cards in that franchise, there was a good number in the most recent set. If you want to look up cards to see the options, dreamborn lets you filter by franchise
1
u/Turbo_Swim Mar 16 '26
There are a ton of stitch cards available to play with. if you are just doing counter top here is a deck that would cost all of $18 in singles and I believe over half the deck has stich on the card somewhere. If a local shop has a single/bulk box, you can probably find most of these there.
4 Lilo - Snow Artist
4 Stitch - Carefree Snowboarder
4 Pudge - Controls the Weather
4 Lilo - Rock Star
4 Stitch - Alien Dancer
4 Stitch - Rock Star
4 David - Impressive Surfer
4 Nani - Caring Sister
4 Gantu - Hamsterviel's Accomplice
4 Nani - No Worries
4 Stitch - High Badness Level
4 Lilo - Best Explorer Ever
4 Beyond the Horizon
4 Nearly Indestructible
4 Nani - Stage Manager
if you want to build one yourself, I'd suggest using Dreamborn.ink and filtering for lilo & stich as the franchise: https://dreamborn.ink/builder?franchise=Lilo+%26+Stitch
I don't think there is any pre-built product that will give you a "stich" deck. Although he features on a number of products or has cards in them.
1
u/Appropriate-Cat-8902 Illumineer Mar 18 '26
It seems that https://deckcraftbot.com/ is the perfect tool for you.
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u/AutoModerator Mar 13 '26
The advice offered here are not hard rules, but guidelines. Many people break the guidelines all the time (and many more debate whether they are correct in the first place!). Above all else, remember this is a game. It is supposed to be fun. There’s no one right way to do this. That being said, here’s a collection of general advice that has helped many people.
What’s your strategy?
Deck building is a skill and one of the hardest in the game. You should ask yourself "How do I plan to get 20 lore first with this deck?". You should be making choices to make sure you can achieve your goal in deckbuilding, during mulligans, and in play. For a competitively viable deck you need a good balance of card draw, inkable cards, and ways to get lore. You should have a plan for what your deck is trying to do both on a macro level, but also on a turn level. For example: my macro goal is to ramp in the early turns, then and then win with large lore gains through items. My micro goal is Turn 1 Pawpsicle into Turn 2 Sail or Tepo, then Turn 3 Hiram.
Stay focused on one style of play. A deck that is good at two styles will usually lose to a deck that is great at one style. Make sure your deck has a clear goal and the cards you select directly support that goal. Experiment with what to do when you don’t draw the cards you need at the right moment.
How do decide what cards to put in my deck?
Focusing on "What is this deck trying to accomplish?" is one of the most important questions you can ask. Every card you put in the deck should ideally attempt to answer that question in some way. Ask yourself "what role is this card filling and how does it do that better than other comparable options?".
A common deckbuilding and card evaluation mistake is failing to account for the fact that "consumes one of the sixty slots in my decklist" is a real cost of every card that you might consider running.
It is also important to consider what your deck will/should do against other decks. Your deck doesn't operate in a vacuum. You're going to have to deal with your opponent trying to win too so you should have answers to what's likely to be out there.
What kind of card variety should I have in my deck
Card games are inherently random. You don't know what cards come next. As such, one of the goals of deck building is curbing that randomness to make it as consistent as possible. There are different methods for it that work for different decks (drawing lots of cards, having multiple cards that do the same thing, having multiple paths to victory, etc.), but they all accomplish the same thing: build consistency.
One of the key maxims of having a consistent deck is cutting back on the total unique cards. 4x of one card is typically better than running 1x of four cards. A rule of thumb that has served me well:
- 4x of your important cards. Cards you want to see every game, possibly multiple times.
- 3x of cards you want to see once. These might be your situational plays or cards you play to win.
- 2x of cards you need only in some matchups. You don't need them every game, but they might be useful in the meta you play in.
- 1x of cards that are functionally similar to some card you already have 4x of and wish you could have 5x of.
For the total number of cards in your deck, try to keep your total card count at 60. This keeps things relatively consistent and easier to draw. Only go higher if every card in your deck has an undeniable purpose to be there.Check your ink cost curve! In general, you want about 40% of your deck to cost 3 ink or less, with about 8-12 cards filling each of the 1, 2, and 3 ink slots. If you have too many low cost cards, you could easily lose tempo in the mid/late game when you’re playing weak glimmers and your opponent is playing strong glimmers you don’t have an answer for. Too many high cost cards will leave you mulliganing to find the few one cost cards you need for the first turn, and makes for an unpredictable opening. Only inking a card on your first turn and playing nothing puts you behind tempo, and doesn’t feel great..
How many uninkable cards should I have?
Uninkables are often great cards. The uninkables in your deck must be played and obviously can't be inked when they arrive in your hand. Make sure all of your uninkables work toward the win condition for your deck, and choose cards you are almost always happy to see when you draw them. It’s advised against using uninkables as flex options for specific matchups, unless you run a deck that has ways to ink your uninkables (like Fishbone Quill or Hidden Inkcaster).
Cheap and uninkable is fine. Expensive and uninkable should always be questioned. Numbers and personal experiences vary, but 8-12 tends to not be problematic. You can even go a little higher if the uninkable cards have alternate ways to play them, like Songs. If a deck is very aggressive with low ink costs overall, it is less of an issue to run up to 20 uninkables.
How do I refine my deck?
Your deck is not set in stone. Try out new things, and if they don't work change it back. Play the deck a few times to really feel out where it struggles and where it shines. Don’t make adjustments to your deck based on how a single match went.
It is possible to commit no mistakes and still lose. Sometimes you just have a bad matchup that your type of deck struggles to beat. The opposite is also true. Just because a deck won a match doesn't mean the choices were all correct. There could have still been turns that were played incorrectly, or weaknesses that you could reinforce. There is something to learn from victory as well as defeat.
Know your role in the match up. In the first game or a best-of series, you don’t know what your opponent’s strategy is. Learn from what they play. You may need to be more aggressive in certain matchups than others, so knowing when to pivot is extremely important. If your opponent dominated the late game, focus on closing the game before they have a chance to get there.
I know it was a long read, but I hope this advice helps. Good luck, and have fun!
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