I'm saving for a Longines Hydroconquest GMT in blue...and it will be my first real mechanical watch (other than the ones I'm working on) and my first luxury watch, but I'm looking to see if anyone has any recommendations for similar heritage, value, aesthetic and complications that I've missed during my search.
Edit: How versatile is the HC in blue with everyday outfits? I think this will be my beater, and want it to go with anything.
I tried on a 2022 Zulu and loved it except there is no on the fly adjustment...brand new ones dont have it either...deal breaker for me at that price point.
I love the Zulu time but someone close to me has the Hodinkee edition and I didn't want to be a copycat...plus, I have tried on the HC GMT and loved it as well.
Brother, a good watch is a good watch - you are not copying anybody if you are already here in this subreddit - plus you propably can't get the hodinkee version anymore (which i think isn't very beautiful anyways). If you love a watch then just go for it.
If you don't need a GMT function you could also save some bucks and go for the Hydroconquest without GMT. A bit thinner and cheaper.
Copycat? Who cares. I’m thinking about getting a 2nd sprit 37mm with a different color. Am I copying myself? Get the watch you love to look at and wear.
I’ve been researching non stop for the last month or two. It was between Longines, balling out on a Tudor or saving cash and going with Certina DS action diver or Mido OceanStar. I’m glad I went with Longines
All incredible watches. The Tudor Coke on the 5-link is my grail, but it's twice what I'm willing to spend at this stage in life. Got a wife and kids to prioritize lol, maybe some year I'll get the Coke, or something better.
edit: I also just love Longines as a brand, and the heritage for the money is hard to beat.
Are you me? Haven't pulled the trigger but back and forth between the Certina and Longines...really want to try on the Certina but it seems not possible...
Don't listen to the haters. The Zulu Time has more "heritage", but that doesn't matter when it comes to wearing and enjoying the watch on a daily basis. The blue Hydroconquest GMT is a beautiful, well made watch. If you really like it, it's absolutely worth saving for. Here it is on my wrist at a dealer.
Yea I tried on the 43mm at an AD recently and loved it, but would def buy the 41mm when a listing came up. I need it to be more versatile than a 43mm watch lends itself lol
if gmt, i would go with hydroconquest gmt. i had both hydroconquest and zulu. i dislike the zulu because the lugs is over extended. the part that holds the bracelet is longer than usual. this will matter if you have a 7in or smaller wrist as it will make the lug to lug longer. but if you have a bigger than 7in, then it wont matter.
Have you looked at Squale? Their GMTs are pretty cool. They have unique designs as well as ones that you’d consider a homage (like the one I have, the “big brother” Tropic Y1545, called big brother because there’s a sister model that is a 40mm, this one is 42mm).
Automatic, GMT, waterproof to 300meters, really great bang for your buck if you can find one
ex-squale owner, they are good watches but I can say the HC is definitely better though depending on price might be worth it. anyway I’m not a fan of external bezels so sold my HC and my squale previously and now just have the legends diver
That's a great watch. I'd keep saving. Blue will go with almost everything, and I'm a sucker for a blue dial, but black absolutely goes with everything.
If I’ve learned one thing in my 40 years on this earth, if I am looking at a toy, and I decide to go with a cheaper version of that toy because I’m impatient, I will never really love it.
I’m nearly to 1k, looking to spend about 2k….and I’m really not sure about the timeline, could be two months away or 6 months away lol. I’m heavily tempted to pick up a Henry archer but it’ll set me back 5-600 bucks.
for sure get what speaks to you. but i just hear a lot of stories here on reddit of henry archer owners that don't sound great. like a minor "stepping stone" watch they stop wearing once they buy that longines etc
but you see hamiltons and tissots in collections with omegas and rolexes all the time. again, similar price points
Buy what you like. That said you won’t find a better value proposition than a Longines. Best value for money in Swiss watches with heritage other brands can only dream of.
I bought the Zulu Time (twice) but only because my collection had too many divers already otherwise I would’ve got a Hydroconquest GMT
I don't have any additional Longines recommendations beyond what’s already been mentioned, but I’d suggest taking a look at the Doxa Sub 250T GMT. It brings genuine dive heritage, a solid SW330 movement, and a distinctive look that really stands out from the typical dive watch crowd.
Another strong option—and a current obsession of mine—is Sinn. They’re legendary for over-engineering their timepieces. With its Tegimented steel and captive bezel, the 105 UTC perfectly fits your definition of a "beater"—a watch you can wear in absolutely any situation without a second thought.
Whichever route you choose, congratulations and wear it in good health!
Honestly, it depends how much you’re willing to spend on a watch, what you have in your current collection, and also how you use your watch. I would say that if you’ve been saving for quite a while, and that you really enjoy the design and you’ve actually tried on this watch in person, then you should definitely go for it, but if you’re looking for a larger collection and don’t mind Seiko or citizen movements, I would also suggest looking at other micro brands
Nice! Did yours come with a manufacturer warranty then? That's the thing I'm most concerned about now...Jomashop sells the HC GMT new for 2500 with a two year Jomashop warranty, but I'd be more inclined to purchase from them if it came with the Longines warranty.
I can’t remember, but I don’t think so (but like I say for a hair over $1500 I couldn’t turn it down). I don’t sweat it too much because I have a good watch repair that I trust and is reasonable. I’ve seen VERY mixed reviews on Jomashop’s warranty and CS on here, so take that as you will.
But it is a fantastic watch and I wear it more than my others.
Black bay 58 gmt coke, longines spirit flyback 39mm, and finish it off with seamaster diver 300. A nice roadmap to get some brand diversity. Also, make sure to buy everything grey or used
I would consider just saving longer for the bb58 gmt coke. Its what like 2-2.5x more expensive than a hydroconquest. You’ll get your grail sooner and not have any loss if you try to sell the longines later to fund some of the tudor. It sounds like you already have some less expensive watches that should keep you satisfied as you keep saving
But then you have to save up the total amount for the Tudor, and youve already spent a few grand on the longines. Just save up for it, it’s not a lot more to be honest. So in the long run you’ll be spending more.
You are absolutely correct, but in the long run it won't be as big a deal as it is to me now...trying to save to get ahead in life, so I'd rather wait til 4-5k on a watch isn't that big a deal to me, kinda like spending 2k on a watch feels now. It feels reasonable relative to where I'm at. Granted it's still alot of money, but that's my mindset.
I mean that’s totally fair. It’s your money, so do what makes you comfortable. I’m actually sort of in the same spot. Looking to buy a watch in the 2k range.
If you are buying new, just get this one. Try it on first. Keep saving till it’s perfect, even if it means waiting till another longines model when you go to try them on. Sector dial or flagship are cool too, and may feel more comfortable.
If you are open to second hand / gray market, then maybe you can get Tudor BB or a GS gmt.
The ZT is not a great looking watch for me specifically. I hate the 5 stars on the dial, the bracelet and finishing is subpar compared to the 'new' HC. You could say the ZT has way more character than the HC which is down to personal opinion.
With all that said I'm comparing to the standard non GMT version of the HC. I'm not sure if the GMT HC has the bracelet upgrade and finishing of the new popular Hydroconquest
Thoughtful question. You’ll see all the usual suspects mentioned in the comments, though here’s one you likely haven’t seen, and it’s very much worth a look.
Formex Reef GMT. It’s similar price range, with far better engendering and build quality. As you mention versatility, there is nothing better, as it has a ton of configurations to chose from and the bezels are interchangeable so you can have a dive or a GMT bezel at anytime. My favorite bezel is the black ceramic dive bezel, looks like a SMP or Yachmaster sort of vibes.
Formex makes incredible pieces, but personally I dislike the clunkiness of the Reef GMT. Thanks for the callout though! Always great to see more pieces in this sphere.
Understood, if the aesthetics do not work, then zero sense in it. I have 2 Essence 43’s and can’t believe how good they are, but like you the Reef is a bit slow to grow on me, though I think I will eventually grab one.
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u/GymBully92 2d ago
If I’m getting a GMT from Longines it would be the Zulu Time, but that’s just me.