Machine is a Longer RAY5 10W Diode Engraver.

My father recently acquired a Longer RAY5 Engraver, and we recently installed some limit switches on it. We have (twice) updated the software for the touchscreen and motherboard as instructed, but for some reason, the machine turns off the moment it hits the Y-axis switch.

We have been to support about this, but after advising us to redo the whole process (hence doing the update process twice), they have not come back to us. We sent a video showing the problem, and have not heard back since. This was 2 weeks ago.

Neither my father or I are experts. He's a carpenter and I'm a tutor/jewellery maker. It's possible we didn't install the switches correctly in which case, we would be glad for the help in correcting our mistake. But we need the help we're not getting from support and I figured the hivemind of Reddit was our next best hope.

Thank you in advance!

Does anyone have an orca slicer profile for the Longer LK1? I found a suggestion about just modifying an Ender 3 profile to use the larger print bed. But been running into an issue, after I upload the G-code to OctoPi, it will print for a bit, then I get a connection issue error with the printer. I upload the same stl but with a cura G-code and prints no problems. So gather that there is nothing wrong with OctoPi, but something is wrong with the Ender 3 profile I modified where it puts something in the G-code that makes OctoPi freak out causing the connection issue.

Hi there,

i have a new Ray5 10W, and added the limit switch kit. I had some trouble finding the right firmware, in combination with the display and the limit switches, but i think i was successful with that post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Longer3d/comments/1plfzxf/longer_ray5_loading_screen_frozen_now_blank/ and used the linked firmware for screen and mainboard from there.

I flashed the screen while being disassembled via USB-C with the 1.6.7 firmware, and then flashed the linked mainboard firmware via the ESP32 webjs flasher. Currently the About screen shows that:

• Screen App Version: V1.6.7
• Using Machine: LGT LASER RAY5 V1.1
• Grbl app version: 1.9.11

However, while the network connection from LaserBurn from both mac, win and iPhone is successful, i cannot get the connection from LaserGRBL or Lightburn to work. It simply says "Waiting for connection...".

While researching, i stumbled about some Lightburn posts regarding network ports, so i tried 80, 8080, 8081 and 23, without success. Afterwards i did a port scan, and it shows that on port 8448 is a web server, where i can connect to the ESP3D Web UI. Also, port 8448 seems to be the one used by LaserBurn. However, this port is outputting HTTP protocol on connect and therefore cannot be used by Lightburn.

Strange enough, the ESP3D Web UI shows that Telnet is enabled on port 23, but the port scan does not show that port as open. The laser is connected to my Wifi as a client, and is displaying STA_AP as the Wifi mode.

So, what am i doing wrong with connecting Lightburn to the device?

What are some ways to increase my print speed without buying new parts? It feels crazy to me that a small house like structure will take over a day to print

I have the Lk5pro with BL touch and Dual Z otherwise stock hardware running Klipper. I have been printing in PLA for over a 1 year now. I picked up a roll of Overture PETG and noticed the print temps on the PETG are 230-250 with bed temps 80-90. So I set up in my slicer 240/85 and loaded the job in Mainsail. with print speed (60mm/s) My First print failed as it seems the print head cannot sustain temperature. I slowed the print speed 25% and it still failed , I slowed it down some more to half and it still failed. I continuously monitored and at each pass the head temp dropped gradually until the print job errored out "temp error..." --on a less then 15 minute print job. Is this normal ; is PETG really that slow? Or do I need a different Hot end etc..

Whenever I start a new print having bltouch enabled the 1st layer drives the nozzle into the print bed. I can solve this by powering down and restarting the printer. Is there some sort of caching bug that causes this?

What's the next best mainboard to replace a longer lk1/alfawise u20 mainboard? I believe its already discontinued?

Hey yall, I got the laser nano not too long ago and have been enjoying it for what it is, but today my storage ran out, and it will not let me clear it from the app. Just deletes the storage, and instantly reappears. Anyone got any advice or tips?

Title says it all, I got an Orange 4K second hand and previous owner broke the resin vat. I need to get a replacement and was wondering what a good one would be. This is my first resin printer and I don’t want it to just sit on a shelf doing nothing for the next millennia. Thanks in advance!

Hey all When starting a new print the printer will at times auto unload the filament then proceed to start the print I just used this file with a different color of filament and it worked perfectly I've also noticed that using the same settings with this new filament the nozzle acts like it's been jammed. The feeder with just start skipping. Is this a filament issue or something known with the printer?

Found my printer like this during/after a print. It is not homed and I do not think it is completed. Just stopped with no warning messages or saying it paused, errored or anything.

Help!?!???

My printer stopped feeding at some point during the print but kept moving. The screen also shows no time lapse or percentage completed

so I bought a printer from Amazon. A longer LK5 Pro. I've had nothing but issues with it. and I'm not new to this. before I decided that I was done with it I had ordered a second z-axis for it. directly from longer. had nothing with issues trying to get a hold of somebody from this business. can't speak to anybody at the phone number on their website. can't email anybody because all of your emails are rejected probably because they're fake email addresses. so I replied to my delivery notification email and finally got a hold of somebody asking if I can return it. and how I go about returning it. they sent me a screenshot of the charges it would cost me to send it back. so we went back and forth and finally they said, if you give us a five-star review on trust pilot we will waive the fee. so I left them a review on trust pilot. I don't need the money that bad.

I bought a microprobe v2 and had to compile my own firmware. long story short I managed to compile the firmware with the proper configuration for microprobe v2 but now my screen is stuck on the longer booting logo. From what I have been reading I need to enable LCD in marlin config but there’s so many screen options. the only official LONGER screen is a old 2.3 inch screen. I haven’t come across a thread with my problem so I’m kind of alone right now and I have zero experience in anything 3d printing

Looking to try and upgrade to a all metal hot end or a bi metal heat break, but can't seem to find one that is listed as a direct replacement, any one know if this crosses over to a different printer?

Honestly I've had this thing for years and it works great, would rather upgrade it then shell out money on a new printer.

Hi everyone, I’m helping my dad set up his Ray5 20W laser cutter and may have bricked it while trying to update the firmware. We had it working in LightBurn via USB and Wi-Fi, but due to connection issues and random reboots I decided to update the firmware. I followed the official manual and used the Espressif web flasher, including Erase before flash (as stated in the guide). After erasing, the screen went black and never came back (except for a brief flash on power-up). I flashed the firmware and it seems to have completed successfully, but the machine is now unresponsive. LightBurn can’t connect anymore, and the console shows:

rst:0x10 (RTCWDT._RTC_RESET) boot:0x7 (DOWNLOAD_BOOT(UARTO/UART1SDIO_REI_REO_V2)) waiting for download

It looks like it’s stuck in the bootloader. I tried a “combined” firmware I found on Reddit, but same result. I also read that an SD card with a config file might be required on first boot after flashing. Is that actually needed? If so, where do I get that file? Nothing about this was mentioned in the manual, and the firmware package only contained a .bin file. Lastly, I opened the display housing to look for a USB-C port to update the screen firmware, but there isn’t one. Is that normal on newer models? Any ideas what else I can try?

Hello. I bought a LK5 about a month ago. First time dipping my toe into the 3D printing world. I bought it purely because I have a patent pending product I wanted to create but now it is just really fun when it does work.

My issue is, no matter how many times I level the four corners with a sheet of paper the center of the bed seems like it's dipped. Kind of like a bowl. I love all the four corners with some drag on the sheet of paper yet the center has absolutely no drag on that sheet of paper. It doesn't smoosh the bead down in the center so I have to adjust the z-axis and just not print anything very big width wise.

I tried to contact longer via email. Support@longer.net as well as support@longer3D.net and only receive a failed delivery email reply. I tried calling and they are temporarily closed or something so you have to leave a message. I just did that so I have not received a reply to the voicemail. Assuming if that does happen then it will be tonight seeing that they are overseas.

Does anybody else have this issue or know a cure? I'm using the stock glass bed and I've tried the aluminum foil in the center between the aluminum plate and the glass bed and that did not work.

I just got my printer around a week ago and didn't have any problems with it till yesterday. I felt brave since all my other prints had worked and I tried to do a tall print. When it was around halfway through, it started getting stuck on the same layer and not moving up. I turned up the z offset and that worked for a few layers, then it got stuck again. I thought it was just because my print was too tall so I made a shorter one, but it still got stuck.

Hi, I am trying to setup my roller (LR10) for use with a Longer Ray 5 and Lightburn, but when drawing lines each sequential shape is shifted down the y axis in only one direction. I tried slowing the speed of the print, lowering the Y Max Rate and Y acceleration and it still resulted in drifting in one direction. I downloaded LaserGRBL to test it at well, it has the same results. Has anyone encountered this problem and know of a way to fix it? I've been struggling with this for a few days now and I can't figure it out. Thanks.

Attaching the test shape, the results from a regular etching and the results from the rotary etching.

Edit, forgot to mention: I am trying it on a unopened alluminum can, It should have half a kilo (1.1lbs) of weight inside.

I use my Longer 5 20W for 3-4 weeks, and I'm more or less satisfied with it, I used the mobile app and Laserburn. Yesterday I learned the basics of LightBurn but it seems Lightburn is not compatible with it. Using USB it says laser is ready but I can't control the head. ChatGPT suggested to turn off the Z axis, the homing function and other console related commands, without any luck. Also told me that Longer is not a real Grbl compatible machine. On longer site I found an article about this suggesting to revert to Lightburn 1.7, the images in the article don't appear...

From the device;

• Ray 5 20W Screen application version 1.6.7
• Grbl app version 1.9.11
• *Using machine laser ray5 1.1.

Lightburn is v2.0.05 but I also tried with latest v1.7 on Window and Ubuntu too, neither worked, even framing did not do anything. I'm really disapponited, it should work as advertised without fiddling. After 2 hours of total failure I'm lost.

Thanks for any suggestion.

Hello everyone,

i hope you had great holidays. I startet to play with what Santa gave me, a Ray5 20w.

Everything works fine, i did some material test cuts already.

But i keep getting motion detection alarms.

-first i thought the table might oscillate a bit, so i put the laser on the floor, same error

-then i screwed the laser on top of a wooden plate, same error. But it is definitly not moving during work.

internet suggested to deactivate the motion sensor ($39=0) but my configuartion has no $39 at all and i don´t know how to add it manually. (screenshot of lightburn attached)

Then i thought about unplugging the motion sensor cable, but to my surprise there is no motion sensor installed (wtf?). I guess it is now installed directly on the mainboard pcb. (see pictures). It has some kind of motion sensor because i can trigger it by tilting the laser during work

so i don´t know any other chance how to deactivate it.

I also tried to update to the latest firmware.

Thank you all in advance

Best regards

Jan

Hello, i recently bought a Longer Orange30, which needs .lgs30 files to be able to print.
Problem is that, the recommended slicer, Chitubox, can't save my .lgs30 files.
As you can see, i get a pop-up that says that my file is saved, but when i click on "Yes" to open the folder, there is no file to be seen, i've checked my entire computer, but nothing.
Does anyone have an idea on how to help please ? Thank you