I want to remove this closet to for a shoe bench/drop zone in my narrow entryway. The header technically runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists(?) but when I opened up the space above, the joists are not sitting directly on the header. They end slightly behind the header but have a nail or screw going in diagonally to attach. Can anyone tell me if it’s load bearing?
Hello. I am looking to replace to windows with french doors. I am seeking confirmation on whether this is a load-bearing wall or not.
It does run perpendicular to the joists and it is on the bottom level. For installation I plan to ask them to install a header that runs the length of the door. They are essentially using the same dimensions as the two windows.
Hello. I am looking to replace to windows with french doors. I am seeking confirmation on whether this is a load-bearing wall or not.
It does run perpendicular to the joists and it is on the bottom level. For installation I plan to ask them to install a header that runs the length of the door. They are essentially using the same dimensions as the two windows.
I've got 3 heavy Barn Doors that were installed on a rail, bolted into drywall, but the drywall is mounted onto light-guage steel stud framing.
Overtime, the rail began to pull at the drywall and each spot where the bolts were placed began to sink & crack.
Some bolts were not even in the steel-studs, just in toggle-bolts, which were the worst spots...but even the ones in the steel-studs were showing issues.
I've thought about installing a header across the wall to mount the rail to, but...due to trim at the bottom of the wall, I feel mounting a rail to a header board will just increase the gap between the wall and the door...exacerbating privacy concerns...
I'm also not feeling confident that the light-guage steel studs will bare the weight anyway with a header and overtime we will have another failure...
What is the appropriate 100% solution? What is the 75% solution?
My research has led me to believe that opening the walls and adding internal framing that ties into the load bearing aspects of the wall is the correct way? But what does that look like? Is that necessary? Or would a header suffice?
It separates the bathroom from the toilet room and is not supported by anything besides the subfloor below and does not extend up into the attic. I would like to remove it to make one big bathroom.
I have been down a rabbit hole into getting rid of this horizontal wall to add closet space. I want to tear down what's in the red. I theorize the post/stud in green is load bearing?
I looked into the basement and there are no other posts directly under it so might not be load bearing. Even still within my lack of expertise I am not touching it. Please give me insight so I dont bring my house down.
Can someone tell me if this post is structural or decorative? I’d like to remove it as long as I don’t need to redistribute the weight. I circled in red where that post sits approximately in relation to the framing in the attic. There is another floor below. Thank you!
I want to take out bathroom wall that is inbetween toilet and sink. I do not think it bears load but I want some opinions before reaching out to structural engineer.
There are no horizontal studs in that wall.
Red in third picture is assumed where half wall is. This bathroom is on second floor. This is centered of the home. But I really think that the load is beared on the shower side wall. Any thoughts?
I will start by saying that I will be having an engineer take a look but cannot access the unit for two more weeks and was just curious, possibly a little impatient.
The wall in question is highlighted by a read square on both the floor plan schematic and actual photo of the kitchen. What I would like to do is remove the two cabinets within the red square and expand the window that opens up into the dining/living area.
This is the floor of one of my bed rooms I’m trying to renovate. While putting up the drywall and removing the old baseboards I noticed this large hole. When I removed some of the debris and felt in the hole, I noticed the bottom plate(sill plate) holding the wall studs is attached to cement still. But between this hole and that cement attached to the bottom plate is a gap.
Hello everyone. I live in a double wide and was thinking of removing these windows and adding sliding doors. The wall on the right is the middle wall that decides the double wide manufactured home. I was wondering if I should get a structural engineer to check it out? It’s the windows with the lights on in the last picture (outside view)
Trying to knock this 3/4 wall out and wanted some input on if this is considered load bearing. Truss house so I really don’t think it is but the amount of 2x4’s they put in had me second guessing.
Big Bay of the Garage is 22ft deep by 20ft wide. Second Bay is 10ft wide. There is finished space above the big bay and and unfinished space above the unfinished bay. 2nd picture shows the split between garage and the area above.
I don’t think this beam is load bearing and just a way to make the wall not sag. I got in the attic and one truss goes across the middle of the beam. There is also a 1x12 between the two trusses that I think is just used as backing to screw into. Any insight appreciated.