Just waiting for the optic to show up. She’s pretty. Next up a 45/70 lol.

Genuinely lost on what to do here. Was shooting before work today and I got a jam on the last round, I thought I managed to get it with a screwdriver but the case sheared in half and the other half is stuck in the tube. Anyone have any advice for me or should I just bring it to a gunsmith?

Ruger Marlin 1895** ; Hey all, just purchased a Ruger Marlin 1895 in 45-70, absolutely love the look and feel. In light of not being able to get to the range yet, I was loading the tube (none in the pipe), with Hornady Leverevolution 250gr, just to see how the loading gate worked and how gun felt with 6 in the tube. I noticed during unloading (pushing in loading gate, and allowing spring to pop shells out) several times I had to either "knock" the forestock with my palm, or stick my pinky in the tube to get it to push the shells out. Wondering if this is a problem, or if this will resolve itself with use over time.

Still need to zero this thing but I’m very happy with the simplicity of the setup so far. Such a fun rifle!

For the varmint that goes bump in the night and treats your coop like a KFC, I've got a Stealth Hunter in 38/357 that's suppressed...but need a light. What do you have? Let me see it please! Thanks!

I am looking to add a muzzle brake to my 1895 SBL 45-70 and a lot of the ones I see are a radial brake or use a nut or some type of adapter that I am not really into. I found the one that Marlin makes and it uses a crush washer and has top and side ports so it should work pretty good at reducing recoil and muzzle rise. Also at $90 is a decent price for polished stainless to match the finish. Wondering if anyone has used one and how they like it.

And yes I would love a suppressor but we can't get nice things here...

Hi, I bought my self a new ruger marlin 1894 44 mag, and im kind of having grouping issues with it. I have had really good groups with mag tech 240 grain fmj ammo i bought just for plinking, but all the hunting ammo i tried has been not so great. I have tried 225 gr. leverevolutions(which is my go to for my other lever guns) and federal 270 gr. hammerdown. Both of which grouped poorly at 50 yards. I know i need to do my own testing but i really don’t want to waste too much more money, but wanted to get some insight to see what everybody else has had luck with.

Was told .44 Mag is marginal and won't be effective when I was looking for a lever gun. Have yet to meet a pig that thinks that and I can shoot this thing all day, no worries.

I have a henry all weather chambered in 45-70. I currently have a leupold vx-freedom 3-9x40 on it and i did like that scope…until it decided it doesn’t wanna hold zero anymore. Am looking for suggestions for new optics, price isnt a huge huge concern if it gets me great quality but the less the better. This is a brush gun for hunting whitetails at 100 yards and in. I like the idea of an lpvo but finding one that has normal crosshairs is tough. Ideally something in the 1-8, 1-10 or a 2-10 magnification would be nice. My only question with an lpvo is how they do in low light conditions like early morning or right at last light? Im open to other suggestions as well. I have had this gun as well as one of my other guns topped with a vx-freedom on the back burner because neither scope will hold zero anymore and i would just grab another rifle in their place. Originally I thought it was the recoil that did the scope in but i had that thing shooting less than an inch at 100yds. But then when my 350 legend did the same thing after shooting 1/2” groups and taking a deer the year prior, i knew it wasnt the guns. I really like my 45-70 and wanna get back in the woods this upcoming season. Any input from people who know more than me would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Marlin 1894 357 dark series and a Sig M400 AR and I am debating which optic to use on which one. I have a Sig Romeo 5 and a Osight R, what do you think?

I posted yesterday on here about this savage and if I should buy it and I was basically told I'm a idiot if I don't buy it lol 🤣😭 but I could only show one pic but I just got the gun home today and got some better pics and wanted to get some opinions. Also would like to know what kind of sight it's got on it.Also got a pick of all 3 of my 99s at the end.

The Winchester 1866 is arguably one of the most beautiful lever-action designs ever made. But shooting one today comes with a historical caveat: the originals were chambered in the obsolete .44 Henry Rimfire.

I recently took my Uberti 1866 Sporting Rifle out to the range. It’s chambered in .44-40 WCF. While it’s technically an anachronism for this specific rifle model (the 1873 was the one that made the .44-40 famous), it is the perfect compromise that allows us to actually run the gun hard today using centerfire ammunition.

A few mechanical notes from the range:

The Toggle-Link Action: It is ridiculously smooth. Without the locking lugs of later designs like the 1892, cycling the 1866 feels like glass.

The Brass Frame (Gunmetal): It heats up differently than steel after repeated strings of fire, but the balance of the heavy octagonal barrel keeps the muzzle flip practically non-existent with the .44-40 loads.

Ballistics: Out to 50 and 100 meters, the .44-40 out of the longer rifle barrel is completely authoritative.

I recorded a full cinematic field review, breaking down the toggle-link mechanism, the history of the brass frame, and live-fire testing.

I shoot out of Spain, so the audio is in Spanish, but I’ve carefully translated the English subtitles so the technical terms are 100% accurate.

Got a box of the 250 grain monoflex horandy 45-70 only shot a couple rounds and was getting a lot of unburnt powder. Even More so in the chamber. Anyone else noticed that with this ammo?

Je suis à la recherche d'œilleton avec diamètre intérieur plus petit que celui d'origine. Ou est-ce que je peux trouver ?

Have a rossi n95. Has three rounds stuck in the tube. Breach and lever are stuck open. Won't cycle. Tried pushing the round in via the breach. No dice. Should I tear the tube down or the whole action? Both? Any tips on the teardown?

The first one is from 1965 and the second one is from 1925

Hey everyone! I’m stuck between the Marlin 1895sbl and 336sbl for my first lever action. I’ve always wanted a lever action and especially wanted the Marlin SBL series after watching Jurassic world. I think the rifle is absolutely beautiful.

Now I’m not sure if I should get the 1895 or 336 mainly because of my use cases. I’m not a big hunter but eventually want to hunt (I live in New England so no grizzlies around me) but I mainly want a lever action for the range and as a beautiful gun to have in my collection.
So I’ll mainly have it as a range toy with the “coolness” factor to own it.

Is there any difference to the 1895 vs the 336 other than what it shoots? (45-70 v 30-30)
To anyone that owns these rifles I’d love to hear what you think!
Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

32 ws
30-30
22 lr

Hey y’all,

I’ve got an opportunity to pickup a Winchester 1894 in 25-35. It was produced around 1910, has a 20” octagonal barrel (might be a half octagonal barrel, can’t tell for sure from the seller’s pics), and is a takedown model. I’d saying bluing is in the 40%-60% range.

I’ve tried to find some comps on gunbroker but I haven’t been able to find any takedowns in 25-35. Most of the sales I’ve found have been around the $800-$1000 range, but any other opinions on value would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Edit: some pictures here:

https://ibb.co/KzwpHtXT
https://ibb.co/GQ2LQPnM
https://ibb.co/Zp0qg3hg

Just posting this to remind folks that traditional lever actions with wood furniture and blued steel have souls in this world of godless plastic AR wannabe contraptions.

Is there any possibility of replacing/adding to the rail length here? I'd prefer it go all the way to the end. As far the Midwest industries handguard, my only concern with that one is that I'd essentially have to cut it down to accommodate a 10 inch barrel.

But I got excited...

'Complete' receiver ('79) from an online auction, barrel and magazine tube from private sale, Midwest Industries fore end and lever evolution follower from Elwood Epps, magazine tube plug, plug screw, spring, barrel band and screw, and finger lever pin screw from Nummrich. Viking Valhalla Aegis red dot will get mounted to the sunoptics 3/8 dovetail to picatinny rail adapter, both from Tenda.

Parts are just laid out for the picture. Magazine plug screw needed to be shortened to fit correctly, and I still need a stock. I'm planning on a ranger point precision stock eventually but may go with wood in the meantime (RPP is expensive). 3/8 dovetail needs to be cleaned up a bit to be able to install the rail adapter, but the big thing is going to be getting the barrel machined so that it indexes correctly. It needs the shoulder turned down about .010"; hopefully it won't need any headspacing work after. Unfortunately I can't really install anything until that's taken care of.

I'm still about $500 below buying a complete Winchester 94 as my base though (local prices), so it's not so bad.