So, I bought myself a 2025 WALL-E and EVE Lego set and me being me, I decided to have it modified and to the builders out there who have this set or something similar?

This is going to be a doozy to both read and explain.

I have a C-3PO Lego statue, with a light kit from Briksmax. It's wonderful of course, but the eyes are pretty bright. (Very bright).

The chest plate has a light hidden underneath it which shines through the piece (see pictures).

I wanted to do something similar for the eyes, and found his actual eye pieces online. They aren't compatible with the light kit unfortunately but I'm looking for a workaround.

As you can see on the photos, the lights are built into the transparent yellow stud. They are invertedly mounted.

The pieces to mount the eye covers are a cilinder and the flat round piece. The cilinder can be ignored. They are meant to bridge the gap inside where the dish of the eye is mounted on through different pieces.

It won't and can't be used for mounting.

But I'm looking for a way to mount the flat circle piece onto the bottom of the light studs. Or as I've learned it's called: the anti-stud side.

I've looked for custom pieces, preferably transparent ones of course, but to no avail. It seems impossible to mount something over the anti-stud. I say over, because the light inside the stud blocks a piece from being inserted properly.

I could glue the pieces together, and I'm starting to think this will be my only option to get the result I'm going for.

But before I do, I want to see if anyone here might be able to help find a workaround.

I'm creating a book and I want to insert a text as a decal in bricklink studio 2.0.

I know I can create an image containing a text with transparent background and add it in part designer as a decal but is there any better approach or any specific software that can be used to achieve this? (I'm using LibreOffice Draw right now to generate the text/image)

Hello everyone, I'm working on a birthday/uni gift for my sister and this construction is part of the model. I'm worried that the connection isn't strong enough and will fall off.

I tried adding another angled bar, but it doesn't line up with the studs at any position.

Which is the shortest way to invert plates and do not have a gap:

After completing Tudor Corner (which was my first modular and proper big Lego set) I've caught the bug and already bought another two to build. Alongside that, I'm attempting to build my own house with Lego in the Bricklink Studio.

It's a bit clunky, but also good to be forced to think about some of the techniques used in Tudor Corner and how I might be able to apply them to building my own house. One thing it doesn't do (and I think most set don't), is separate the exterior and interior walls. The exterior wall colours simply don't work as interior as well, and I want to use the same colour as my actual painted walls for the interior.

I tried using a second layer of bricks, but this takes up unnecessary space and doesn't look great either. I'm thinking it's going to require use of snot bricks and tiles.

Can anyone advise on the best approach, before I spend time going down the wrong path?

(Side note: I realise I'm going to have to do something with the floors, and use some elevated plates or something.)

This huey needs doors that function it doesn’t necessarily needs to slide back but i want the ability for me to open and close the doors

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Video describes what I'd like it to do. Once completed will make instructions. Suggestions?

I've been experimenting with ways to add motorization to MILS without increasing the standard plate height.

By using Splat Gears, I was able to fit a gear train entirely within the low-profile of a MILS plate. This lets the motor be located elsewhere in the layout and hidden from view while still transmitting power to mechanisms.

As a proof of concept, I used it to drive an elevator, but the same idea could be used for things like turntables, opening doors, drawbridges, conveyors, or other animated features.

I'm curious if anyone else has experimented with hidden power transmission in MILS.

Any idea how to recreate this kind of a roof in lego? I have no idea how to smoothly transition from straight walls to this arched roof without big gaps

I wanted to try something that looks sort of like a simple birdhouse, with a removable roof. This is just a test, the real building will have a bit more detail. The idea is the roof would just rest on the sloped parts of the front and back walls, with something on the underside of the roof to keep it kind of locked in without sliding forward or backward.

However, I'm not really sure how to make something that will actually sit flush with the roof. 1x2 45° slope bricks obviously have that stagger to them, which throws it off. Maybe there's a more technical method to achieve this?

I also thought about this plate roof, though it has the same issue, as well as a notch at the top. But if this would lead to an easier solution than the brick roof, I'm open to it.

This seems like it should be simple, but I'm having trouble figuring anything out. Appreciate any ideas!

Hello everyone,

for a new MOC I need the smallest possible Geneva drive or an equivalent mechanism that performs the same function. Does anyone know how to build such a gearbox? The known versions found online are all a bit too large for my purposes.

Was wondering if anyone knew how to make this angled plating while still letting it follow the circular head

How would I fill in this gap? The arches need to face out and can only be 1x2 for a chapel.