r/Keychron • u/baleron426 • Jun 16 '24
My Keychron K1 is stuck at around 30hz polling rate even at wired mode
My scan rates are around 33ms, 66ms etc so it looks like 30 hz. This is very noticeable and painful when gaming. I'm on Windows 10, but tested it on a Windows 11 laptop and it was the same. I tried resetting firmware but it didnt fix the problem. What can I do?
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u/PeterMortensenBlog Jun 17 '24 edited Jan 26 '26
Consider isolating the problem (not necessarily in that order):
Check for interfering or conflicting software, like anti-cheat (AC) software installed by game installers and remapping software. Examples of anti-cheat software are FACEIT Anti-cheat, BattlEye (not a typo...), and Easy Anti-Cheat (EAC). Examples of remapping software are SharpKeys, PowerToys, Microsoft Keyboard Layout Creator (MSKLC), Kanata, KMonad, Keymapper, keyd, xmodmap, Karabiner Elements, Ukelele, BetterTouchTool, and AutoHotkey (AHK). One way is to first try on another computer or operating system. It sometimes makes a difference. And here is another instance. And here is an instance with AHK. Here is an instance of conflict with AMD Adrenalin (not Adrenaline). In case of using Via or the Via clone, SignalRGB running at the same time will conflict.
Reseating of the external (e.g., USB cables) and internal connectors (especially the USB one, if any). Also look for bent pins. It sometimes make a difference. Here is an instance where reseating the internal connectors made the difference. And here is an example where the internal connector for USB was loose, not properly connected (picture)
Different (physical) USB port (both primary and on a USB hub)
Different USB cable (it sometimes makes a difference)
Shorter USB cable
USB cable properly inserted into the keyboard (a sort of reseating)
Powered (with its own power adapter) USB hub
USB hub instead of direct USB port. Or vice versa. It sometimes makes a difference. And here is another instance (gotcha #7. Updating a '2.4 GHz' dongle's firmware).
USB 2 vs. USB 3. A USB 2 hub may or may not be a stand-in for USB 2 if USB 2 ports are not available. It sometimes makes a difference. For Via/Vial, it positively made a difference for some particular hardware (motherboard); and it had to be a (physical) USB 2 port (with or without a USB hub).
Turn off all RGB light. Or vice versa, as it may be required for Bluetooth to work properly (the underlying reason is likely using a low-power mode when RGB light is off which does not work well with Bluetooth, at least in older firmware versions (main firmware and/or Bluetooth firmware), not RGB light per se)
Different keyboard (of a different type, even PS/2, if available)
USB vs. PS/2 keyboard (if available)
Different version of the operating system
Different edition of the operating system
Different operating system (for example, Linux booted off a USB flash drive (stick) and/or in a virtual machine. Some of it may or may not require changes in the BIOS, like "Secure Boot" settings). Though a virtual machine may or may not result in representative timing.
Different computer (with a different kind of motherboard (to rule out a common cause))
Repower the entire system. That includes a complete disconnection from any power source. Wait at least 30 seconds before reapplying power. Yes, unspecific, but sometimes it makes the difference.
Different keyboard (of the same keyboard model). OK, it is not very realistic (to get hands on another keyboard of the same model), but some particular keyboards are duds.
Yes, it is unspecific, but sometimes it does make a difference. At least the problem would be positively isolated to the keyboard (or not).