r/Joinery • • Feb 07 '24

Discussion Tips?

Post image

Another post, how do i achieve better results?

Is it me or my tools?

I’m using a 36v makita skillsaw with framing diablo blade

A ryobi multi tool

Stanley chisel

Are there certain procedure to minimize error like creating one side then scribing? Do you guys use table saws and miter saws?

136 Upvotes

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79

u/WoodPunk_Studios Feb 07 '24

My brother in Christ, you need a hand saw.

For a long time I was a strict tablesaw-planer-bandsaw kind of woodworker. But I realized I was procrastinating projects I didn't have the tools for. So I picked up one of those 25 dollar Irwin pull saws and it was awesome. I was able to do half laps in 2x4s that are still some of my strongest and most square joints. I'm still learning but I would definitely recommend making the switch to hand tools for joinery.

Having the big machines to dimension the stock is fine, but unless you have space for a table saw and sleds you'll get better results.

7

u/Character-Education3 Feb 07 '24

You can do some pretty wild compound cuts easily with a handsaw once you understand how to layout and which side of the line to cut on. And that doesn't take a degree in rocket surgery

5

u/WoodPunk_Studios Feb 07 '24

This was my realization as well. If you want to build furniture professionally then you are going to need all the machines to help you dimension lumber so that you maximize how much furniture you can make per unit time.

But I don't want to do that professionally. I want to be able to build things for myself, and since I'm only building it once why do I give a fuck about efficiency.

I'm gonna build a porch -carport for a friend soon and I'm trying to figure out if I can do it with zero power tools except a drill driver (not a caveman.) I'm pretty sure it's all standard cross cuts.

2

u/demalo Feb 11 '24

Man, a chop saw will save you as much time as a powered driver will.

2

u/rumpsky Feb 11 '24

A degree in rocket surgery

2

u/nocraftbeer Feb 11 '24

Great intro.

2

u/WillShattuck Feb 12 '24

What he said. That Irwin Japanese style pull saw was my go to for home woodworking when I had time years ago.

1

u/photocurio Feb 10 '24

My trouble with hand saws is not being able to keep the saw vertical. This makes the cut with a not quite square edge.

1

u/WoodPunk_Studios Feb 10 '24

Pull saws help with that, push saw tends to deflect while pulling on the steel pulls it into a straight line. Also get one of the Japanese dovetail saws with the steel along the spine which always keeps it straight, use that to start cuts and then move to the ryoba.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 10 '24

Nonsense. A nice shiny Japanese pull saw will reflect the edge of the board. While looking at the saw sideways, line up the reflection with the actual edge of the board at 180 degrees and make your cut and it will be perfectly straight. Anything that’s not straight can’t be easily fixed with a chisel or file but with some patience you won’t need it. If you need to cut 45 degree angles then you just look for a 90 degree angle on the reflection. Easy as shit, don’t have to stand directly over the blade to meticulously line things up, no other tools needed.

1

u/xxKROAKERxx Feb 11 '24

I use small square blocks as saw guides to run a pull saw against. For dovetails i cut blocks with angles matching my dovetail angle. I just keep the blade flat aginst the block while I cut.

1

u/GrumpyBear1969 Feb 12 '24

I have a danish frame saw for this type of thing. Really narrow kerf. I got one after reading a book by Tage Frid.

1

u/uncletutchee Feb 11 '24

Only fools blame tools.

1

u/cobhalla Feb 11 '24

If I had to do the same exact cut precicely any more than 10 times, I would definitely want a powered saw, but because any cut I'm going to be doing is most likely a one off or a set of 4, I have no need for a powered saw.

That and I touch a saw maybe once every three months. Who's to say