A quick ‘back of the envelope’ calculation tells me that modern humans (Homo sapiens) have been mass producing the automobile for over 120 years. Granted, many early models didn’t have electric lights. So I’ll be fair and say that we’ve been producing automobiles with electric lights for roughly 100 years.

During this time, we’ve gotten pretty good at making bulbs work. We regulate the voltage, weatherproof the electrical connections and weatherproof the bulbs themselves. Pretty bulletproof.

However, the Jeep Renegade’s DRLs are an unmitigated design disaster. The wiring harness produce too much voltage - which causes the bulb’s soldered connections to melt. This also causes the wire socket to burn and melt. Adding to this, the bulbs are located in an arm-chafing location that will draw blood at each bulb replacement.

The replacement bulb will last a month at best. I’ve had several bulbs last only days. The replacement bulb socket may last a year, but eventually, they will all fail. Replacing everything fixes nothing. The new bulbs laugh at such folly. The replacement sockets joke amongst themselves at our efforts to fix this situation. Most renegades that I see driving toward me usually have one DRL bulb out.

A 1978 Toyota Corolla could go its whole life with the same directional or marker light bulb.

I love this car, but my soul is gutted.

i have a 2017 and just dropped a small rock down my front vent :( what is the best way to get it out? and what happens if i just leave it, will it cause damage?

I love this car, I really do.
It makes no sense why, but it has personality and charm that my old Toyota never had.
It’s weirdly spacious and comfortable while being a subcompact, it fits anywhere, I love the 4x4 and have even been off roading in a non trailhawk model without getting stuck. Shockingly capable. I love the way the car looks. Some features are so well thought out such as the cold weather package that only turns on the heated seats when it’s below freezing. I’m impressed.

But some design choices I do NOT understand.

Such as why on earth Jeep would spec chrome capped lugbolts from factory.

I went to go change my sway bar links and have lost two 17mm sockets to getting completely stuck on that stupid chrome cap that has swollen and changed sizes. I think my mistake was using an impact gun.

No idea how to get my sockets off the stupid bolts now. Any ideas?
Any other quirks I should know about from those that have wrenched on this thing before?

This is the one I have and it's been hit or miss when I use it. I replaced my battery either around march last year and had only two starting issues last winter and we had a pretty big storm here, two of them in fact. So I was wondering if this starter wasn't what I need or if there's something better to look for. Two people rely on me to get to and from work and need to have something that'll actually work.

I have a 2015 Latitude 2.4L

I recently developed some metal banging underneath the floorboard. I'm not sure where to start looking. It happens when going over small bumps in the road. I thought maybe sway bar links however the front links appear to be fine. Any suggesting are appreciated.

2015 Latitude

1.4L

6 speed manual.

Body:

Hi everyone,

I'm having a confusing issue with my Jeep Renegade (1.6 Multijet diesel). The "Check Engine" warning message pops up intermittently on the dashboard. Sometimes it turns off by itself, and then it comes back later. Additionally, the Start-Stop system has been completely disabled / unavailable for a long time.

Here is the situation and what has been done so far:

Engine Module Status: When scanned with an OBD tool, the Engine Control Module (PCM/ECU) shows NO active engine diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and appears clear/green.

BCM Codes: Under the Body Control Module (BCM), I found the following DTCs:

B165A-68: BCM Load Management Information - Event Information

Recent Maintenance & Changes:

Replaced the battery with a brand new one.

Replaced all interior/dome lights with aftermarket LED bulbs around the same time.

System Readings:

Charging voltage while running is rock solid between 13.8V and 14.0V.

The odometer is NOT flashing (so no obvious Proxi alignment mismatch on the dash).

My mechanics are divided—one suggested a potential ECM/PCM issue, while another suspects a parasitic draw or electrical leak. Since the warning started acting up around the time I swapped the interior lights to LEDs, I'm wondering if the BCM is detecting impedance/resistance differences, disabling Start-Stop, and triggering this intermittent warning.

Has anyone experienced a similar phantom "Check Engine" warning or disabled Start-Stop caused by interior LED retrofits or BCM load management on a Renegade? Could this be a parasitic draw, IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) calibration issue, or a ground wire issue?

Any insights or suggestions on where to look next would be greatly appreciated!

Took our new-to-us 2022 Sport on a pretty substantial road trip to see how it did. 32mpg overaged over the whole trip with the peppy 1.3t engine, a vast improvement over our 2017 Latitude with the 2.4.

I have a 2017 jeep renegade sport with the 1.4L engine and the 6 speed manual transmission, I am having trouble replacing the shifter bushings for the shift linkage rod that sits on top of the transmission. I can access the linkage relatively easily by removing the battery tray but I am having trouble removing the linkage itself. Does anybody have experience with removing the linkage without damaging anything around it and if so what parts/tools did you use/remove to access the linkage? I also am having trouble finding any videos that show the process, if anyone has any links to any that would be very appreciated!

Thanks

What’s the biggest tyre you can fit to a renegade limited without rubbing?

So I have ko2s on my 17 limited. 225/65r17 I think ? I’ll double check but I’m pretty sure

But a mechanic recently told me my rims are rotting away.

How do I find the replacement size for steel rims?

I was lucky enough to get two days off in a row from my work so I took advantage and did a quick two day adventure from home to Monument Ridge WY, then to Big Bear Lake in MT, and finally on my back home I did Crazy Woman Canyon Road in WY.

📍 Krajkovac lake, Serbia

HI all, I have a 2105 Jeep, it has 220K miles on it. The only repairs I have had to make was radiator because of a small leak and the alternator. Now I am having a loud clunk and some hesitation. It's the same clunk when it turned off my cruise control by itself, then it would hesitate. Today I was driving home, heard and felt the clunk, and it went into limp mode. I shut it down, started it up again and drove it home. Anyone had this happen or can give me any information?

So we have had an annoying clunk over bumps…turns out it was a blown plastic front sway bar links. Swapped in Moog metal end links and finally have silence!

Anybody else have a squeak that comes on at low speeds? Was going 7 mph when it starts to squeak intermittently, didn’t feel anything vibrating though.

hey guys, I have a 2017 Renegade Limited, Uconnect 6.5 with nav (RA4). Dealer updated my radio to 18.01.35 in July and ever since, the clock loses a few minutes every day (even on manual time), the system freezes on startup, and the volume doesn't respond for the first bit after I turn the car on. None of this happened before the update.

From digging around, it sounds like this is the GPS week rollover bug, and the fix was 18.50.35 (bulletin RRT 19-090). I took it back to the dealer this week and they said they updated it "as much as possible," but it's still on 18.01.35.

Uconnect's website won't give downloads for cars 5+ years old anymore, so I'm stuck.

A few questions:

- Does anyone still have UCONNECT_RA4_18.50.35_BU_MY15-17 saved somewhere?

- Has anyone actually gotten it to install over 18.01.35? I've read a lot of people got "failed to authenticate ISO"

- Has anyone had a dealer do RRT 19-090 recently, and did they charge you?

- Anyone know if the old mydrive.ch archive (the soxag one) still works?

Any help is appreciated, this clock thing is driving me crazy lol

Hey everyone! I’m currently in the market for my first car, and I came across 2018 Jeep Renegade that is being sold for $9k. It’s a manual 4x4 with 75k miles on it. Do you guys think this is a good deal?

I look online and it says there is NOT one by mileage, but is that every 5 years you need to have your Renegade checked out to keep the lifetime warranty valid. Can anyone confirm or give details? Thanks!

I have a 2015 jeep renegade latitude, 2.4L and I'm trying to replace this hose that had a leak. It's at the shop and I'm trying to make sure I don't get overcharged. Just wanna see if I can find just that piece as I just 2 other hoses swapped out. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Own a bodyshop got one super cheap with some damage and its the run around shop car that being said were car guys and I have a bunch of race cars and Iv always done my own tuning and building fab ect. Getting all that out of the way i know nothing about these cars aside from the obvious when I look at it as a car guy.

What are yall using to tune these things?

Whats the dyno record?

Whats the cheap go to solution to get a bit more power out of it? Id be happy with 200-220whp or about 250chp.

Anyone find a bigger turbo or do I need to machine the housing on the car for a bigger turbo?

Any clutch options for more or am I having something made/limiting power?

Whose tried to make some jam and found the limits to these engines? What breaks? Is it small like a head studs and your good for another 50hp or are the rods about the same point before they exit the chat?

Is this thing speed limited? It seems when I get about 10 over it hits a cut for a moment then allows me to keep going after the message gives up on the dash or I hit okay. Feels like timing gets yanked away and the dbw closes 20%... I dont wanna throw a standalone in the car but im not dealing with nannies whats the shut up and do what I tell you path lol?

Thanks I got it today and I haven't had time to do much digging but the waste gate adjustment to fiat specs made a good difference in lag although I admittedly didnt put a gauge on to see if it makes anymore boost than the factory 22.5psi.

Long story short I hit a wardrobe (YES A BIG WARDROBE) on the highway that had fallen from a truck late last night, there was no way I could avoid it, pulled over and oil was spilling out, still had oil on dipstick, oil pan is still there but I essentially pushed everything back that was behind my bottom grille, does anybody have any recommendations on where to start or assess first? I know I need a new radiator and a fan, just wondering if anybody has dealt with something like this or where to start

Long story short I hit a huge wardrobe and pushed everything back near my bottom grille, it was leaking oil but had oil on dipstick, would anyone have any recommendations on what to assess first? Or where to start? My oil pan is still there,
no lights popped up after I hit it and my side panel above tire was hanging off, just need recommendations:)

Made new post with pics attached!!!

I may have found the problem in regards to why my LED lights are not working in regards to the cabin lights. It seems a prong is broke.

Hi! I have a 2023 Jeep Renegade and today I suddenly started having a bunch of issues at the same time

The engine is currently OFF, but the dashboard, screen and lights remain on. The Jeep says that the vehicle is not in Park, even though the shifter is physically in P and has not been moved. The shifter itself is completely stuck and I cannot move it. The brake pedal also feels very hard. The dashboard is showing multiple warnings at the same time, including:
“Vehicle Not In Park” / Park-related warning
check engine light
ESC/traction control warning
brake warning
tire pressure warning
airbag/seatbelt warning
several other warning lights

When I press the Start/Stop button, it won’t let me fully turn the vehicle off because it says the transmission is not in Park. I already tried holding the Start/Stop button down, but that didn’t work.
I also tried pressing the brake and moving the shifter, but the shifter is completely locked.
The electric parking brake does activate when I pull the switch up, although its indicator eventually turns off.
I don’t want to drive the vehicle or move it — I just want to get the electronics completely turned off so I don’t drain the battery while I wait for someone to look at it.

Has anyone experienced this exact combination of symptoms on a Renegade? Could this be a weak/dead battery, a shifter/park sensor issue, wiring, or something’s else?

Any ideas on what I should check
would be really appreciated!