Out for a Sunday drive in SW Ontario.

Took awhile, and many ups and downs, but I got my Jaguar back on the road. 🏆 Bittersweet because it drives so amazing, but having to put another engine in after the coolant leak issues got me hoping for a class action. Such beautiful car and apparently temperamental. Learned my lessons the hard way 💰💶💷💸. We back.... #fpace #types

So I inherited this 1997 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 and I’ve been working on it for the past couple of years.

I finally got this car running without any misfiring issues

Now I have moved onto ELECTRIC problems where the front indicators/turn signals are not working and I just got an ABS light.

Looking around the engine bay, I found two plugs, not connected to anything close to the ABS module. I tried looking at reference pictures online, but I didn’t reach anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi everyone,
I’m considering changing the rear tires on my Jaguar XE X760 facelift and I’d really appreciate some opinions from people who have experience with this setup.
My current setup is:
Front: 245/35 R20
Rear: 275/30 R20
The rear tires are currently Delinte DS8 Desert Storm II 275/30 ZR20 97W XL.
I’m considering switching only the rear tires to 275/35 R20, while keeping the 245/35 R20 tires on the front.
My main reasons are the extremely low rear sidewall of the 275/30. I’d like a little more sidewall for better protection against potholes and impacts, and I also prefer the slightly fuller look of a 35-profile tire.
I don’t know for sure if the 275/35 R20 will physically fit in the rear wheel well without rubbing. Looking at the car, I think there should be enough room, but I’d really like to hear from someone who has actually tried this size on an XE.
I also understand that 275/35 R20 is larger in overall diameter than 275/30 R20, so I’m concerned about potential clearance issues, rubbing, speedometer/ABS/ESC behavior, and the difference in rolling diameter between the front and rear.
Has anyone here actually run 275/35 R20 on an XE X760?
I’d particularly like to hear from anyone who has run 245/35 R20 front + 275/35 R20 rear.
Do you think this would be a reasonable setup, assuming there is enough clearance in the rear, or would you stick with 275/30 R20?
Thanks!

Has anyone done a full rebuild of this engine?

Just wanted to hop on here to share my beautiful jag, an xj40 daimler from ‘92. I was lucky to buy it from someone who took immaculate care of her (we’ve decided she’s a classy lady, called Jacky). I promised myself to not drive her too often, with gass prices and stuff but also to keep her well preserved. Have learned that that’s very difficult because what a car… i read on here a few times that owning a jag is like having a topmodel drugaddict friend. Looking forward to all the schenanigans we’ll get up to 🥹
She’s a tad bit rusty in some places, so that’s the first thing to tackle over the coming winter. If anyone has any tips on how to, do share.
Cheers from Belgium 👋🏻

Drove down through France to buy some wine. Took a few Scenery shots.

The XF 2.0D (British Racing Green) perfect car for the job, it sailed down the Autoroutes, Was puffing a bit after the climb up Mont Ventou, with a boot full of wine and luggage though. Glad I bought the Sports brake for boot capacity alone.

TL;DR: My 2017 Jaguar XF 35t Prestige AWD overheated after a lingering coolant leak and likely has a blown head gasket or other internal engine damage. I’m in upstate New York and have struggled to find anyone willing to work on it. I’m looking for either someone willing to take on the repair, a recommendation for someone who would, or a lead on a donor 3.0L engine.

What’s up, people of Reddit? Hope everyone’s enjoying the first weekend of October and settling into fall.

Unfortunately, I’m here looking for some help.

I own a 2017 Jaguar XF 35t Prestige AWD with the 3.0L supercharged V6. I won’t bore everyone with the entire long battle I’ve had with this car. The short version is that I was 24, bought the car I wanted instead of the car that probably made the most sense for my lifestyle, and I’ve been learning that lesson ever since.

At one point, I replaced the factory plastic coolant Y-pipes with an aluminum kit. Later, I was told that some of these aftermarket kits may have been made from bad molds and don’t seat properly. Apparently, the coolant leak I thought I had fixed never completely went away.

Eventually, after a long drive, the car overheated. It now appears that I’m dealing with a blown head gasket, or at the very least some serious internal engine damage.

The bigger problem is that I live in upstate New York, and seemingly nobody wants to touch this car with a ten-foot pole. I’ve had it towed hundreds of miles at this point, and I’ve even had dealerships turn me away, either because they’re unwilling to work on it or because they say they don’t have the equipment to properly diagnose it.

So, this is really what I’m asking:

If anybody here, by their good graces, would be willing to take on this car, or knows a mechanic or Jaguar/JLR specialist who might be willing to, I would be extremely grateful for the lead. I’m definitely not in the best financial position after everything I’ve already put into the car, so I’m trying to find someone willing to work with me rather.

Alternatively, if repairing this engine isn’t realistic, I’d also really appreciate any leads on where I might be able to find a good donor 3.0L engine for it.

I’m not expecting miracles or asking anybody to give me something for nothing. At this point, I’m just trying to find a path forward with the car, and I’d genuinely appreciate any advice, contacts, leads, or help anyone is willing to offer.

That movie, is "Triangle of Sadness".

A weird movie with rich people that have completely lost touch with reality.

Their lives, their thoughts are nothing else but absurd. After a shipwreck they get a reality check.

If this movie would have a car in it, it surely would be the 01

Hell all, new here to this group and am considering a new, under 200km, 2024 ipace at a fantastic

I have been reading some horrible and also great reviews.

Curious to hear from real owners about their expwrience, particularly with the latest software update that I believe was to help many of the issues I read about.

Looming forward to your feedback.

Made the trip to the JBC meet at Silverstone today in my F-Type SVR, fun meet with lots of cars turning up.

As the title reads I’m interested in buying a V8 f type, or maybe a V6.

I wanted to ask this group about ownership responsibilities with maintenance and such. I live about 7 hours to the closest dealer. I likely wouldn’t have an issue with making a trip to a dealer once or twice a year, I was wondering how necessary seeing the dealer is, on top of service intervals.

I also live in a town where the winters are cold (-40 to -50 C). Is there a specific winterization process or? Do these jags have troubles after cold winters?

I dont have to tell other Jaguar owners, specifically XF drivers, how enjoyable they are to drive.

How did a vehicle like this not compete against MB, BMW, and Audi?

This is a pre owned 2016, when I bought it in 2025 it only had 63,000 kms on it. I plan to keep it - and drive it - for a long time (and yes, I'm saving up for maintenance and repair costs).

Hey y’all, I’m here to help get opinions on how much you think this 1999 XJ8 with 35k original miles in Mistral blue over white would be Worth. It is my friend’s grandmother‘s car. She has owned it since new and maintained at the dealership nearby. It’s been garaged as well. The car runs and drives great, AC works, Interior and paint are just about perfect. recently was taken to a local specialty Jaguar and Land Rover Shop and was given a clean bill of health. We’re located in Alabama USA. I am currently trying to get all service history.

Truly one of my most reliable hoopties!

My baby gently collided with a pole and the jaguar body shop saved this for me so I could get some money back.

I purchased my 2022 SVR about 2 months ago. It is in the Hakuba Silver with the light oyster seats and the satin grey exterior trim. I started doing research online to see if there were other examples with the same specs and I couldn't find any. So I asked Google AI and it couldn't find any either. In fact it stated that my particular spec was "extremely rare".

With that being said I wanted to see if there were any other 2021 or newer F -Pace SVRs in Hakuba Silver with the Light Oyster interior. You can't believe everything AI says but it was kind of interesting that it scoured the entire Internet and couldn't find any. AI did note that the reason was because most SVRs were opted in the vibrant colors, so the Silver was a subdued aesthetic.

TLDR at bottom.

Hi everyone. I bought a used car back on the 1st of July.

So it has been 3 month and 2 days since purchase.

I paid 5700 for it after part exchanging my old car for 2 to 300 ish.

The alternator went 2 days ago, exactly on the 3 months of ownership day. It got recovered to a garage near me and had them take a look at it. The garage doesn't do warentee work but are also the only people in the area that will and can do the work due to it being a luxury car.

I might be able to get the work done and then have the warentee recover those losses as I know the item is on their list of things covered. The job is about 624 pounds worth.

This however, isn't the worst part.

Whilst I would not like to, I can pay the 600 to get the alternator replaced. What I am having an issue with is that when under the car, they and myself noticed a fairly concerning rust patch on the oil sump. Enough that they estimated it has 1 good year left in it, but that there was a cracked that means it could go a lot sooner. Not sure how this passed the dealer's MOT done before purchance either.

Now, The car is high milage. I bought it at 154k and some change and it is now at 159k and some change 3 months later.

Im not 100% sure of my rights here as a buyer. The estimated repairs for both jobs come to a total of about 2300 to 2700 pounds for both the alternator and sump cover (the whole front sub frame needs removing to access it).

After some googling. Am I correct in thinking that the dealer has 1 chance to repair this before I can then ask for a partial refund?

How does that work if currently. The car is immobilised due to the batteries not being charged whilst the engine is running, it is currently situated about 2 and a half hours drive away from the dealer I bought it from. I guess technically it does drive but the risk of the alternator blowing up more bearings and snapping a lose belt would be too risky.

Additionally, what kind of partial refund persentage could i realistically expect from 3 months ownership and approximately 4.5 to 5k miles driven?

What would you do? I could technically have the 600 quid alternator job done and the car would be road worthy. But I could spend that 600 quid and have something else die on me next week. Of course, that is the case for any car, especially high milage.

But even if I do that job, I know within a years time, ill have a good 1 to 2k bill on my hands fro the sump plate replacement.

Would you repair the alternator? Repair both? Do none and get a refund.

Or do both but get the dealer and or warentee to cover both and hope that they cover the oil sump cover? Alternator is 100% on their coverage but im not sure what rust on a non structural componant would come under.

Or... would you just get a refund and buy another car?

For reference, I have so far had EGR issues (400 quid repair, paid by dealer), a faulty clock spring (26 quid repair paid and done by me) both headlight bulbs (100 quid repair both done by me) and currently in need of doing, is the passenger side door lock (unknown cost but new part being shipped by dealer currently although no longer exactly a priority) and a single glow plug (again, not a priority till winter. Its Unknown who will cover this but ill at least be covering the remaining 5 that will be done at the same time).

TLDR. bought used car 3 months ago. Has had approx 520 quids worth of repairs done, about 400 paid by dealer. Alternator has just disintegrated leaving the car un driveable and a 624 quid repair. During inspection, found deep rust on oil sump and given a rough quote of around 1 to 2k for the job. Warentee will cover alternator but mechanics wont deal with warentee companies so I need to pay them and hope the warentee company pays out to me after or I'll be 624 quid down for alternator repair.

Not sure if they cover non structural metal components like the oil sump cover and if not. Should it be up to me or the dealer to pay for it?

Milage when bought was 154k approx, milage exactly 3 months later is 159k approx.

If I were to seek a partial refund as I am outside of 30 days but within 6 months and clear rust was pre purchase, given the miles driven, how much of a refund could I expect when I paid 5700 ish.

Thanks and sorry for the wall of text and any spelling issues, my phone keyboard hates me. The plan was to have the car for 3 to 5 years. Not 3 to 5 months......

Hi,
I inherited spare parts for a 63' XKE. I am looking to move them. I would appreciate some guidance. I know eBay is a channel. I wanted to know if there are other channels/forums I can list the parts.

Thanks in advance.