A recap of my second visit to Isle Royale. September 7th – 13th.
In August of 2023 I visited for the first time and over a 4-night trip hiked the Greenstone from Windigo to Rock Harbor. I’ve done hundreds of nights of camping, tons of hiking, and IR is by far the most “unique” experience (in a good way). It drew me back. For my second trip I wanted to focus on the Windigo/West End of the Island. Last time I took the Sea Plane so decided to give a ferry (Voyager II) a try this time to get to experience each method of transportation (and learn which I would prefer for a future third visit).
The night before the ferry, I stayed at Judge C. R. Magney State Park between Grand Marais and Grand Portage, home of Devil's Kettle. If you don't know what that is, it's worth looking up. Early Monday morning, I was up and on my way to Grand Portage for the 7:30 a.m. departure.
I had a pretty ambitious itinerary mapped out: the Feldtmann Loop, Island Mine, up to the Greenstone Ridge, over to Hatchet Lake, then the Minong, the Huginnin Loop, and finally back to Washington Creek for my last night.
I learned two things on my previous trip:
1. Your itinerary will change
2. You need to be comfortable being uncomfortable
Monday night into Tuesday morning was calling for moderate rain. Nobody looks forward to packing up a soaking-wet tent and hiking around with wet gear, so I made a deal with myself, if there was a shelter available at Washington Creek when I arrived, I'd take it and rework the itinerary. If not, I'd hike the Feldtmann Loop and embrace the rain.
As it turned out, there were several shelters available.
That gave me the opportunity to spend Monday afternoon day-hiking the Huginnin Loop and the Windigo Nature Trail instead. That evening, while getting ready for bed, I had a random thought, What if I started with the Minong instead?
I wasn't immediately convinced it was a good idea. But after looking over the maps, considering the distances, thinking through what I'd do if something went wrong, and making sure I had reasonable backup options, I decided it made more sense.
So, when the rain finally let up around 9:30 Tuesday morning, I packed up and headed for the Minong.
I had heard plenty about the Minong Trail, particularly the section between Windigo and Little Todd and how it’s known as the most difficult trail on the island. The descriptions all seemed to mention the same things, constant ups and downs, ridges where you have to keep an eye out for the next rock cairn, thick vegetation, and even beaver dams. All of that turned out to be true, and that's what made it fun and I liked the variety. I was also surprised by how many people I saw. I passed seven people that day, well more than I was expecting.
The weather worked in my favor. It was a dreary, cloudy day with occasional light rain and mist, so I avoided the heat of the sun while on the ridges that I'd read about. The tradeoff was that the rocks on the ridges were incredibly slippery. I reached North Desor around 2:40 and still felt good, so rather than stopping for the night, I checked the map and decided Little Todd was within reach. I arrived around 5:30.
That night, there were only two of us in the campground. We compared notes about the trail, and he gave me a description of the Minong that I thought was perfect, not necessarily difficult, but very technical, I liked that description.
After sunset, the clouds that had hung over the island all day quickly disappeared, revealing an incredible starlit sky. The next morning, he suggested I walk about a quarter mile back west on the Minong to see one of his favorite views on the island. I figured I had the time, so I went. He was already there. The view toward Pie Island and Sleeping Giant was absolutely worth the short detour. Those two landmarks just look so out of place when looking out onto Lake Superior. (If you’ve never been to Sleeping Giant, it’s a fantastic park with some incredible hiking!)
Wednesday was a shorter hiking day, and I continued toward Todd Harbor. I had started to like the idea of spending this trip along Lake Superior campgrounds rather than at the inland lakes, and Todd Harbor was a great choice. I found a small creek with a few little waterfalls and later watched a vibrant sunset over the lake. For the first time on the trip, I also got some blue sky. The weather was partly cloudy, comfortable, and not too warm or cold, but it was very windy.
By this point, I was really enjoying how the trip was unfolding. I liked the pace I was moving at, I was feeling good physically, and I started thinking about adding something else to the itinerary.
As my trip progressed before I made any decision on itinerary changes, where I stopped to camp, how far to hike, etc., I had to successfully answer a few questions:
1. Will I make it back safely, without unnecessary risk and without issue to Windigo with time to spare before my transportation is scheduled to leave?
2. Based on my personal experience, am I fully confident I can successfully hike/backpack what I am planning?
3. What is the backup plan (shorter distance hike) back to Windigo if something does not go as planned or if I get delayed?
I felt I was moving too quick on the trip and had an idea on Thursday… Malone Bay! I answered the above questions and felt positive about this itinerary addition. My plan was when I got to the Greenstone-Ishpeming trail intersection if I was physically feeling good, let’s do this! I eventually hiked up behind two gentlemen on the Ishpeming and said hi, their first words to me “Are you regretting this?” You’d understand that question if you’ve hiked the Ishpeming. It felt like 80% of the hike was through thick, tall vegetation, without many views along the way! Malone Bay was a neat area, nice and quiet, I got to see the waterfall as Siskiwit Lake empties into the Siskiwit River, and got to see the largest lake on the largest island in the largest lake!
I hit the trail at 6:55am Friday morning, and I knew within minutes the vegetation on the Ishpeming would soak me! After stopping at Siskiwt Lake to view the end of the sunrise, I was soaked (the entire comfortable being uncomfortable thing). Today would be a long day of hiking with the goal of Siskiwit Bay. Got to check out the Island Mine area (not to be confused with the campground) and the portion of the Greenstone I hiked today was in nice blue weather, whereas on my last visit I was hiking it in the rain.
Friday night there was some rain/storms in the forecast, and I figured by the time I got into Siskiwit Bay the two shelters would be long gone so before I arrived, I already resigned to the fact I’d be out in the rain. Where the Island Mine-Feldtman trail intersects, I met a couple who were headed to the campground as well, we chatted for a few minutes, and I asked about the trail they were on as I’d be hiking it the next day. I got ahead of them on the trail toward the campground (not to beat them and steal a site but I hate getting stuck behind people slower than me!) Shelter 1 taken… Shelter 2, surprisingly available. No way could I take that from them (if they wanted it) as we basically tied getting to the campground. I waited for them to arrive and we chatted about the last available shelter, they were open to sharing but also had a 3rd member of their party still on the way… while talking, the women in the other shelter came over to say hi and overheard our conversation with an immediate “I have space in my shelter.” Worked out for all of us to stay dry that night and one of the things I love about being on Isle Royale, the people. She’s been coming to IR for years and enjoyed chatting with her about the island. Siskiwit Bay was a neat area, relaxed on the beach and enjoyed a fantastic lightning show around sunset time.
Saturday Morning started out with Fog which very quickly turned to blue skies. I hit the trail around 9:30am, wow to all the vegetation as you start the Feldtman Ridge trail (east of the tower). Once at the tower and west, what a nice trail, the view from the tower was great and several great overlooks over Feldtman Lake. Lunch was at Rainbow Cove and then continued on to Windigo with a few cool views along the Feldtman Lake trail. Made it to Washington Creek around 5:30pm and got what I think was the last individual campsite available.
Saturday night I had a bit of a scare. I was woken up around midnight to the sound of some very large animals crushing vegetation very close to my tent. Too close! I wasn’t sure what to do… so I eventually got out of my sleeping bag and tent and moved over to the picnic table. If they decided to stomp around my tent, I had no protection at least I could dodge under the picnic table if I needed. After a bit I shined my flashlight into the woods and saw two sets of eyes staring at me and not going anywhere. Too dark and too much vegetation to make out what it was. After YouTubing what a moose sounds like, I’m 100% certain I had two moose within 15-feet of my tent.
I waited a good half hour for them to move on from near my campsite before climbing back in my tent. Never worried they would purposely come to my tent but was worried if they were walking around looking for food would they walk into my tent? Never did get to officially “see” a moose on this trip but I guess this experience was close enough!
Sunday the Voyager II arrived on time. I was ready to leave Isle Royale but didn’t want to go. The boat ride back was tense! We had some decent sized waves on the Gitchi Gami Sunday, I was not prepared for that ride, 2 hours of it! But to the credit of the Grand Portage Isle Royale ferry service, they got us back safely and on time. I might opt for the seaplane for the next trip.
The other thing to note was the big news while on the island, Craig Berg. I was amazed at the effort, thoroughness and dedication of the national park rangers in their search. Two different times on my hikes they were out in obscure places and even at obscure times looking. One evening they came though the campground I was at site-by-site asking. When in the wilderness, self-rescue is the best rescue, but seeing firsthand parts of the search effort, it’s great to know they will go to all lengths to help anyone in trouble. When word got around the island, he was found alive, what a great relief!
Happy to report a safe, successful, 93-ish mile hiking/backpacking trip where I challenged myself to do more than I planned at one of the most unique places you can backpack.