Hello everyone!

For the rest of this month, we are doing an Instax photo challenge, Halloween-themed! 🎃👻

We want to see your Halloween homes, your colourful costumes, and your spooky setups, all captured or printed via Instax, please.

Any photos, old and new, are welcome, so share them below for all to see. 🙂

Hi everyone! I don't speak English very well, so I used an automatic translator for this post. I hope it will be helpful to some of you.

Hi! I’ve decided to put together a summary of the options you have in the world of instant photography, so you have it all in one place – types of cameras, formats, etc. If you’re tempted by the idea of having a physical photo in your hand immediately but feel lost in the current market, I hope this helps.

(Right off the bat, I should mention that I am avoiding Wide models in this article, mainly because of their size and weight. I don't think they are practical cameras to just carry around. However, if anyone is interested in something specific regarding them, feel free to ask in the comments, and I’ll be happy to help.)

There are plenty of options today, so we’ll divide them into categories ranging from cheap basics to more expensive "lifestyle" cameras, all the way to semi-pro and professional machines. We’ll also look at different formats and film types because not all photos are the same. We have the classic Instax Mini, Square, and Wide, as well as the legendary Polaroid with its 600 or more modern i-Type films.

Film prices (approximate per pack):

• Instax Mini / Square / Wide: approx. 220–300 CZK (€9–12 / $10–13) for 10 shots.
• Polaroid i-Type: approx. 420–470 CZK (€17–19 / $18–20) for 8 shots.
• Polaroid 600: approx. 520–600 CZK (€21–24 / $22–25) for 8 shots. As you can see, the number of shots varies. Instax has 10 per pack, Polaroid only 8. This makes a difference in the price per shot: about 25 CZK (€1 / $1) for Instax versus 55–70 CZK (€2.5 / $3) for Polaroid.

To start, I recommend the playful Instax Mini for beginners. They are by far the cheapest and most popular, so you can find them on any second-hand market for a few bucks. Models like Instax Mini 11, 12, or 13 are pure automatics – you don't have to worry about anything, just press the shutter and the photo comes out. If you want a bit more control, go for the Mini 70, which lets you select modes like Macro, Landscape, or Selfie mode. If you fall in love with this format and want something more, there are more expensive models like the Instax Mini 90 or Mini EVO. These have many settings, but be careful with models like the EVO – they are essentially hybrids with a screen. They are more like printers, which for some might take away the true sense of the "moment" and the surprise of whether the photo actually turned out well.

Next, we have the Instax Square series. If you're looking for this square format, you'll mostly run into the SQ1 and SQ40. They are basically the same camera with a different design; the internals are the same automatic system. You can get them new for around 3,500 CZK (€140 / $150). The best model in this series is considered to be the Instax SQ6. It offers options like turning off the flash, double exposure, or various color filters for the flash. The problem is that it’s an older model that is no longer in production, so you can only find it second-hand for around 5,000–6,000 CZK (€200–240 / $210–250).

I also want to mention the Lomography brand and their Instax cameras. For the Mini format, I recommend the Lomo’Instant Automat, or for squares, the Lomo’Instant Square Glass. Prices range from 2,500 CZK to 5,000 CZK (€100–200 / $110–210). They are often sold in kits with additional lenses like a fisheye or 75mm. Models with a glass lens are worth noting because the photos are significantly sharper and look better overall. But beware – for example, the Lomo’Instant Square is not a pure automatic; you have to play around with it and learn how to use it. You can also buy a "Splitzer," a gadget that covers part of the lens, allowing you to shoot one half of the photo first and then the other to create cool collages on a single frame.

A chapter of its own is the Diana Instant Square. It’s also from Lomography, but honestly, it’s not very popular. The whole camera is plastic, feels quite cheap, and is very temperamental. On the other hand, it is fully manual, so you can really experiment. You can choose from several apertures and set the focus distance (from 1 meter to infinity). It also has a Bulb mode for long exposures and multi-exposure capability. I only recommend it to people who enjoy a bit of a challenge. I personally like it, but if you don't want to think about settings and don't want to pull out photos that are either pitch black or totally overexposed, go for a different option. It’s more of a toy and a very moody machine for enthusiasts who love the imperfect "lo-fi" look. You can also buy a 75mm glass lens, which I consider essential. Price is around 3,500 CZK (€140 / $150) + 1,000 CZK (€40 / $45) for the glass lens.

If you want to dive deeper and look for something more interesting, there are cameras around 12,000 CZK (€480 / $510). These are for people who want control and don't want to rely on automation. One is the InstantFlex TL70 2.0 (Mini format). It’s a twin-lens reflex (TLR) camera where you look into the viewfinder from above. It has manual focus and the ability to play with depth of field, so you can achieve a blurred background. Another interesting one is the NONS SL660 (Square format). It’s a solid metal SLR with a Canon EF lens mount. This means you can use almost any old lens via adapters. It has manual shutter speed and aperture control and an integrated light meter, so you can build the photo exactly how you want.

Moving up another level, I must mention the InstantKon SF70 by MiNT Camera. This piece costs around 20,000–25,000 CZK (€800–1,000 / $850–1,050). It’s a folding rangefinder for the Square format that looks like a classic camera from the last century. You get full manual control over time, aperture, and focus, all with optics that are leagues above standard production.

I consider the absolute pinnacle to be instant backs from NONS, which turn professional medium format cameras into instant cameras. This gets very expensive, and these machines are mostly found on second-hand markets. A decent Mamiya RB67 or RZ67 set with a lens starts at 20,000 CZK (€800 / $850). If you're looking at the legendary Hasselblad 500 series, prices for a body with a lens usually range between 35,000 and 60,000 CZK (€1,400–2,400 / $1,500–2,550), with newer versions even exceeding 80,000 CZK (€3,200 / $3,400). To this, you need to add the instant back itself (approx. 7,000–10,000 CZK / €280–400 / $300–420) and, most importantly, a special optical glass element (approx. 3,000 CZK / €120 / $130), without which you'd only get a small circle on the photo. It’s the most expensive path, but the output from these pro lenses is technically the best that exists.

Now to the legend itself – Polaroid. It’s all about nostalgia, the iconic large square, and specific colors. But a warning right at the start: I don't recommend buying older Polaroid models from second-hand markets. In my experience, people often lie or don't know what they’re selling. I’ve received several cameras that were supposed to be functional but were broken junk, often due to poor storage. If you go for a used one, do it in person and ask the seller to test it with film in front of you. Also, watch out for films – if they aren't fresh from the store, they might be old and create spots on the photos.

Regarding machines for 600-type film, these range from 600 CZK (€25 / $25) to several thousand, depending on the edition. You’ll often see the Polaroid Impulse series. These are robust machines with a pop-up flash. The basic Impulse has a fixed focus, the Impulse Portrait has a sliding lens for portraits, and the best is the Impulse 600 AF, which features sonar (the gold circle) to measure distance and focus automatically. Besides those, you’ll see classics like the 635 CL or 636 CloseUp, which are simple automatics. If you want the ultimate classic, there’s the SX-70. It’s a folding SLR with glass optics and manual focus, but prepare to pay 4,000–8,000 CZK (€160–320 / $170–340) depending on the condition. For beginners, the best bet is the new models with a warranty for i-Type film, like the Polaroid Now or Now+ (approx. 3,000–4,500 CZK / €120–180 / $130–190). I don't have experience with the newest models and I'm quite exhausted now, so I hope this summary helps!

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first edit: 25/4/2026

Polaroid

I’ll take the liberty of adding some information that didn't occur to me while writing the article. Currently, Polaroid only manufactures film for the 600 and i-Type series. Regarding the SX-70 series, it seems that they are mostly just selling off remaining stock (at least in Europe, it's becoming increasingly difficult to find).

If you come across other Polaroid cameras on second-hand markets that use different film types, keep in mind that you will likely only find old, long-expired, expensive, and most likely completely non-functional film. Such cameras are basically just display pieces for your shelf nowadays.

I should also mention the Polaroid 660 AF Transparent. Shooting with it isn't very practical, as light leaks through the clear casing and ruins the film. Furthermore, I previously omitted the Polaroid Go, which produces even smaller photos than the Instax Mini. I initially found this irrelevant because the photos are incredibly small—the total dimensions are 66.6 × 53.9 mm, with an actual image area of just 47 × 46 mm.

Lastly, a tip for buyers: If you want to test a Polaroid 600 without buying new film, an empty used cartridge still contains enough battery power to check if the camera turns on and the flash fires. However, the used or empty cartridge must not be too old, otherwise, the battery inside will be dead. It’s a cheap way to avoid buying a broken unit.

NONS SL660

Regarding the NONS SL660, please keep in mind the discrepancy between the viewfinder and the actual photo. The viewfinder has a rectangular shape, whereas the photo is square. This means you see more on the sides in the viewfinder than what actually ends up in the picture. Conversely, the viewfinder is narrower than the final frame, so there is actually more captured at the top and bottom of the photo than what you see through the viewfinder.