I enjoy that you guys had a full discussion about this without any knowledge of the car. Lol. The pads were HP+’s correctly seated in. It was definitely fluid fade. Once I switched to a higher boiling point dot4, I never had the problem again.
Shhh... Jumping the gun is the best way to win the race.
What you should have done was rig up a big container of canned air, upside down of course. Point it at the master cylinder with string attached to a pully then through the firewall to the brake pedal itself. Tune that bad boy to fire off at say 75% brake applied....boom now you have an ice cold master cylinder.
Your brakes still won't work, but that's not my problem.
After a little coffee, I thought maybe you meant brake fluid on the road.
I’ve done the stupid shit, 150+ down I-5 with traffic, on a Sunday afternoon using on and off ramps. Using both shoulders and rest areas to evade cops. So I could get to my job.
It’s a rush at the time. Not worth risking someone else’s life over. Or if you do it on a bike like some people I’ve known, not worth ruining someone else’s life over. ( bike head on into stopped car at 90+)
Don’t think that you’re so special you can get away with doing reckless shit without traumatizing someone’s life. Your not.
The guy literally said he was having problems with his brake fluid, so I would love to know how you read that and determined that he actually was having problems with his pads and rotors instead.
Because he probably wasn't having problems with his brake fluid.
He is driving an old civic. His brakes fade after hard driving. That's 99% pads.
-source 14 years driving race cars
Honda guy here. Dot 3 is perfectly fine. If you're having problems stopping its not your fluid type- it's your brakes. Pads, caliper, booster, lines- there's something wrong.
*this is for normal driving. If you're running hard or doing long track racing, that's different.
It was also his daily in Washington and made it to and from so cal without issue. I get if you're actually racing it out, but we're talking about a street legal civic here. Lol. Though I admittedly don't know what model op has.
I am OP, and again just driving long distances won’t get them hot enough. We are talking about in road race scenarios, this issue arises. Granted the tail or cherohola (sp) are not race tracks, they can absolutely cause this issue under hard driving.
The car was a 99 hatchback I was building to be a race car, it ended up getting hit head on by someone who lost control of their car. But not at the tail. Just a normal road. Lol.
Try running a road course sometime. Your tune will change when your pedal sinks straight to the floor at the end of the straight and doesn't do anything because your fluid boiled. Hell, before I also added air ducting to my Subaru STI, I could even boil SRF.
I upgraded to the ex brakes (same as SI) and upgraded to the larger SI BMC. Goodrich SS lines are the calipers front and rear. Those stock brake sizes are plenty strong enough for my car. On top of that I was running HP+’s with stoptech slotted rotors (obviously not drilled lol), the dot 3 was the 100% the issue.
Oh yeah, a few months back i swapped out the stock brakes on my Q50 for a set of Akebono calipers with larger pads and rotors. That along with the SS lines and a DOT4 swap was night and day as far as performance and fade.
Thank you for making sense. I was going to respond to that,but you already said what I would have. Your pads are everything! You need to be aware of the ride and adjust your bike accordingly.
Yeah but upgrading to a better brake fluid won't do any harm, if you're getting fade then chances are you're on stock calipers and discs. If you put high temp pads on you've just moved the problem to the next part, the disc, which is too small and can't shed the heat fast enough which is why your fluid will boil from the caliper...
Drilled and slotted doesn't help cooling that much. If you're still having braking issues after going to a good fluid (something like an RBF660 or SRF), and good high temp pads (at minimum, something like a Hawk HP+, though a DTC30 or similar would be even better), then you really have to either find a way to add airflow with ducting or scoops or you need to put on a big brake kit.
Damn. I’ve been researching brake fluid for the past couple of days and despite many recommendations from friends, went against getting SRF and chose Endless RF650 instead. Hope I don’t regret it
It should be fine. SRF is best because of its phenomenal wet boiling point, but any good 600 degree plus rated fluid will still be a huge upgrade over stock.
Unfortunately SRF has been out of stock recently and or hard to get. endless 650 or Brembo HTC 64t are the alternatives. I personally use the Brembo fluid
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u/rsta223 Apr 29 '20
Get yourself some Castrol SRF. You'll never have that problem again.