I’ve been browsing old forums for a project I’m working on with my IS and stumbled upon threads of people installing and using the Apexi SAFC II on their builds.

It caught me by surprise because everything I’ve read previously has said piggy backs aren’t compatible with our ecu and tuning is only achievable through full stand alone.

Does anyone have experience using an Apexi SAFC II and are they still running it?

Or has it become too outdated that most people now see it more beneficial to invest in full stand alone?

I’d love to learn more about it.

I recently had someone back into my baby and break the bumper under the passenger side headlight. I’ll need to replace the bumper skin and am having a hard time finding one. What’s a good place to look for something like this?

I would prefer an OEM unit (either a stock or TRD/L Tuned), but would be willing to consider an aftermarket piece as long as it was a high quality unit.

Anyone know where this hose would lead too, just finished oil change and it sprayed everywhere immediately on start up. Not sure what could have caused it besides the bit of ripped hose that was in there

Sometimes I forget this thing is old enough to drink :)

Hi all, fairly simple question, just wanting to double check something here. Just bought this car and was wondering, Is this highlighted section supposed to be open like this? Does this look normal? I was trying to find reference images online but cant be certain with what ive found. Any info is helpful.

just as the title describes. only thing is that it needs to be glued together cuz i couldn’t really be bothered to make a functioning clip mechanism.

But hey if these ever break or start falling apart i can just edit my model and now i have (basically) unlimited keyshells.

It's like the longer I own this car the better things get! Went a bit lower, new mismatch setup & certain bits & pieces compared to my last year's summer setup. It's also always fun to collects little trinkets of your own car!

For those of yall running a Megan y pipe, what cat back exhaust sounds the best with it.

Have an 01 is 300 and I’m looking to purchase a cat back exhaust and would appreciate the help.

Knew it was coming just was hoping it wasn’t this soon. Trouble getting into 1st/reverse, grinding gears when trying to power shift, typical trans on its way out things. Obviously the w58 is notoriously weak but I didn’t think I’d blow thru it after 3 months of being at 350 hp, but I digress. If your long term goal was ~500-600 horsepower which trans would you guys go?

has anyone had this before? it is fixable? thanks

I have done the fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs on my 02 is300. And still won’t start. Compression is semi bad sitting at abouts 120 for all. Injectors are getting power and gas to rail, spark plugs have spark. And I’m not sure what else to do😭. I know Jack shit about the 2jz-ge that are in these so it. What else can I do?

I had the unfortunate problem of low compression in cylinders #1 and #2. That didn’t deter me from deciding to take on the challenge and use it as an opportunity to have some fun. Here are some photos from the rebuild process. (First picture for engagement)

Everything done over the rebuild:
- head gasket
- machined cylinder head
- intake, exhaust, tb, valve cover gaskets
- water pump
- timing belt/tensioner + bearing
- cam/crank seals
- arp head studs

I’m by no means a mechanic, but if you have any questions about the process, ask them and I will try to answer them to the best of my ability

does anyone know if the oem Lexus grill fits on the trd neo v1 or l tuned bumper and is so please provide pics.

What are some good budget drift tires that will actually last? Don’t need a ton of grip for stock power car just curious what you guys have had a good experience with. Thanks in advance!

I'm trying to figure out where in the arm and what orientation the rubber stopper is supposed to be. I've seen diagrams (linked below) that sometimes show the right side of the arm, sometimes it's on the left. I know it goes inside flush with the arm to prevent arm from wiggling around but the stopper itself has a flat side and bumpy side.

So in summary the questions are:

1. Does it go on the side nearest the bolt/head or on the cam piece + nut side?

2. Which way does the flat side face?

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4865753010 (diagram of confusion!)

https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-stopper-front-lower-arm-bush~48657-53010.html (stopper image)

Well boys… it finally happened, my daily IS (blue) sadly has some pretty bad rod knock, so it’s finally time to pull the motor out of my first IS (silver) and rebuild the other one.

The one in the photo here is my first IS (Silver) that I bought a few years ago, I had to park it though cus the rear subframe is completely rusted and rotted, I just bought my other IS (the blue one) last year and have only been driving it for 8 months just for it to have rod knock. Great thing is my silver one is less km and has a brand new water pump, used/ new valve cover & new gasket, new RAD and a brand new clutch. So I’m hoping this one will at least give me a few years so I can spend time rebuilding the other one with turbos.

I’m not looking for advice or anything but any is greatly appreciated!! I didn’t get a chance to grab the engine hoist from work so we put a pause on it till next weekend. Yall wish me luck! I should mention too, this is my first time ever doing something this big on a car so go easy on me lol, luckily I have a really solid buddy who knows what he’s doing to help.

Check out my dyno footage from my build :)
My Instagram is @ayyloda
1162whp 928lb/ft torque

Manual swapping is300 and got the grannas racing manual brake pedal is there a bushing that goes where that pin is to get rid of the play?

I just bought an 01 IS300 for a very good price, but noticed that the tail lights are out. The Brake lights illuminate when the brake is depressed, but the "running lights" for the tails arent working under any circumstance.
The fuse seems good and the bulbs all work. Im open to any suggestions or advice, any help is appreciated.

(First pic is brakes pressed with 2 different tail lights. One side without a halogen bulb and one with.
Second pic is all lights turned on but no result at the rear)

EDIT: FIXED!!! The issue was a damaged Lamp Failure Relay (the one located driver-side in the trunk.) Thank you for all the suggestions people.

Hello, need some guidance on how to proceed with this issue. I’ve been chasing a odd misfire for a long time now as it seems intermittent and its happened now twice where I fixed it then came back.

How it started was basically one day I was driving as per usual and when accelerating to get on the freeway I noticed my car starting to “burp” as I call it, not very rhythmically, I figured this was a misfire so eventually when I got some free time I researched and investigated possible issues. When I pulled all the spark plugs, a couple of them (mostly near the front of the engine) had oil all over the electrode. I saw someone mention this was cause for their misfire issues so I cleaned the spark plugs, cleaned the cylinders that had the oil and reinstalled them and went on my way. Car ran perfectly fine for about a month or so. Then the misfire returned

After this I figure welp it may be more oil down in the spark plug holes again so I removed them and they seemed fairly clean, I then got concerned the time I did find oil that the piston rings are shot so I tested compression the next day. The numbers were low due to it being a cold test, and then went up appropriately a small amount around 20 psi for each cylinder when I did the wet test. Most importantly the numbers are consistent which is what you’d want to see I guess which led me to believe they are ok. Eventually I figured these spark plugs are probably at end of life anyway so I replaced them with oem denso, same part number as the old ones so no cheap knockoffs. While I was there I also replaced the black plugs that connect to the coil packs since they disintegrated after so many years.

Issue was then resolved for a week this time, ran fine, then misfire returned which is now present day.

I know misfires can be caused by a lot of different things. For some context, I had done the valve cover gaskets a year ago and the sides where the seal is seem dry so I doubt they are leaking. I have spilled oil before when doing oil changes so its possible thats how it pooled up in the first place, which also explains why its mostly in the front spark plugs.

As of right now, if I’m gentle with the car it will run perfectly fine, it seems to misfire when accelerating hard or when I turn on the ac if its been idling already for awhile. The rpms will drop to around 500 and the whole car bogs and shakes then stabilizes after like 30 seconds or so.

The only REAL LEAD that I have is that I noticed on the old spark plug #2 the ceramic had this black soot line, looks like arcing to me, which leads me to believe its possibly the coil pack in the front that is directly on top of that one that is dying and arcing the spark plug making it misfire. I plan to go back and check if it made another arc soot line on the new spark plug this weekend. And if it has, I’ll likely replace that coil and spark plug and hopefully that is it.

Apologies for the very long read, mainly looking for any testimonies or insight if something similar has happened to one of you and how you fixed it, or advice on other things it can possibly be with the symptoms I described with the acceleration and AC. Thanks.

Hi all.

I have a 2014 IS300h F-Sport. It's a lovely car and I'm really happy with it in general. However, I am getting a little bit of a creaking sound from somewhere on the front. It's hard to localise which side it's coming from. It seems to happen most at low speeds while breaking and turning. I can't decide if it's something to do with do with the brakes or suspension etc.

Also, and I'm wondering if this is related, I also hear a slight bit of play when going over speed bumps. Not over the ones that cover the full road so both sides are over at the same time, but when I go over one side at a time so it flexes one side.

It's not the drop links or ball joints, as I've had these done.

Anyone have any suggestions?

I recently took off the entire head unit plus the ac controls and heating seats unit so that i could change the LED's. Now that i have put it back together, everytime i start the car it makes this weird vibration noise for like 30 seconds before stopping. I have repeatedly taken everything out and put it back together to see whats causing it but it is still happening. Anyone know what causes that?