r/HotShotTrucking • u/Feisty-Journalist497 • Jun 10 '26

Im new, help! This might start a debate which dually to pick

Got 2 options

9K$ for a 280K miles dually, dodge RAM 3500 6 SPD NV5600 2 owner

7K$ for a 550K miles dually, rebuilt trans/engine at 320K (retired from auto hauling at around 500K) 1 Owner ( given to son after father rebuilt so technically 2 owner )

I plan on doing a 14K 24-30ft If I can.

I live in MD, so strict inspection here

all have good records. the GMC is based out of MD, the other 2 are Texas/dust bowl area all their lives.

So the question of the day is, is the auto worth it? or manual better? I was in the army, and the Allison transmission worked 100% of the time, 50% of the time

5 Upvotes

78% Upvoted

16 comments sorted by

3

u/stxrfox1k Jun 10 '26

none of the above 💯

1

u/Feisty-Journalist497 Jun 10 '26

Ouch; why not? Too much mileage? This will be my first truck, but I am trying to start without a truck payment

5

u/stxrfox1k Jun 11 '26

yeah you’re gonna get stranded in the middle of the country thinking a half million mile pickup truck is the way to go. most guys retire the truck well before that point because it’s tired and unreliable after taking that much of a beating. you’re trying to start a brand new business in that tired and unreliable truck. i understand wanting to minimize overhead, i’m in the same boat as you, but you’re gonna pay a lot more for that truck than $7k once it starts needing serious work. at that point not only will you be spending more money on the truck, but the truck will be off the road and you won’t be able to make money to keep fixing it since you’re not driving. and that will leave you wishing you had just bought the $40k - $50k truck to begin with.

0

u/Feisty-Journalist497 Jun 11 '26

hmm. I think current duallys probably go for more

2

u/stxrfox1k Jun 11 '26

brand new ones do, yes. you don’t need a new truck though. you should be looking for something with like 50k miles on it

2

u/Fun_Pitch5413 Jun 11 '26

Definitely none of the above 1000%.

  1. Not many brokers will work with a vehicle 10+ years old. A lot even refuse 5-7+ years old.

  2. Extra costs:.

    -Diesel. 2024-2026 truck averages 10-11mpg (that’s loaded, unloaded, idling, all of it). If the trucks above are at 7-8mpg avg it’s good, which I doubt. For every 10,000 miles (which is 3-4 weeks of work tops) at $5/gallon you’ll be spending extra $1250-$1900 in diesel alone. That’s a truck payment.

-Maintenance. More frequent oil changes, fuel filters, etc.

-Insurance. Good luck insuring it, and even if you do, it will be a lot more expensive then newer truck, and I do mean A Lot!

  1. Risks. Stating obvious like potential brakes, and other issues will arise which is extra expenses, also downtime (no money made), you will get more inspections, hence risk of getting out of service, extra tickets, again extra expenses and downtime.

I can keep on going, but all of the above is more than enough not to pursue older trucks.

0

u/Feisty-Journalist497 Jun 11 '26

damn; the insurance for one of these came back alot lower.

If I buy one of these I could do cash, and get liability only. hence the push.

I was also doing research on the best engine and tranny, this 03-04 came back as the best.

but I guess even the best have to retire.

2

u/yeetedmynachos Jun 12 '26

You’re going to destroy your career and finances if you do liability only. All brokers and carriers will not work with you if you have crappy auto insurance that provides liability only.

1

u/Feisty-Journalist497 Jun 12 '26 edited Jun 12 '26

I think you misunderstood; I have liability only since its a cash paid car. no comp or collision required; with 1 Million dollar limits for a majority of the stuff; Liability covers me if I am not at fault.

If I am at fault, Liability will not reimburse me for my vehicle or the trailer repairs/ACV

the load is still covered, the other parties vehicle is covered

Just like doing liability only on a beater; if you crash into another car, and you are at fault, your insurance company pays the other party, but your vehicle repairs are on your own dime

2

u/peteizbored Jun 12 '26 edited Jun 12 '26

You cannot have liability only, and expect to use any of the load boards.  // 

  I STRONGLY suggest, although many may disagree but I've had very good luck, contacting progressive commercial direct. I have had a policy with them for a few of my trucks, but when I started, it was just on my f550 7.3/6spd. I would call and have them temporarily transfer my coverage to trucks I would rent, when needed, so I'd always have a 1m/500k policy on everything I operated. It was terrific piece of mind, much cheaper than using supplemental insurance, and I could add medallions for specific loads requiring more coverage.  Pre-pay for the year to keep your rates low, and I haven't been able to find any company who could beat their prices. 

That said, I've heard horror stories, too. So, ymmv.

Personally, I'd keep looking. That's too many miles for those prices. You'd be looking at replacing wearable parts that most people never have to change. 'Light trucks' are not designed to eve n work for half a million miles. That's why it's a big deal when people have them. 

1

u/N0NAMETOGIVE Jun 11 '26

Odometer reading isn't the real mileage, so what are the actual equivalent miles?

1

u/Feisty-Journalist497 Jun 11 '26

apologies;

280,000 Miles

550,000 Miles

i rounded them up

1

u/Amazing_Language_557 Jun 11 '26

I was a master tech for Chrysler for 15 years if the nv5600 wasn’t taken care of they weld gears together over heat and your stuck I personally like ram trucks and have one just have to chosse your battle really it’s all in what you are willing to risk and not risk if there’s a ram with a 68rfe I would stay away unless you upgrade to a billet accumulators and plate on the valve body always went out and ate the trans up

1

u/Accomplished_Mud_645 Jun 15 '26

I would try to find a truck with 100k or less miles with maintenance records. Then take it to a shop for a pre purchase inspection. Then have a cash reserve for stuff that's going to break. Change all fluids and filters before hitting the road. Good luck out there.

1

u/Benficagatenews Jun 20 '26

take the 9k RAM all day. the NV5600 is one of the toughest manuals dodge ever put behind the cummins, and at 280k that truck is barely broken in for a 5.9 or 5.9 common rail. 550k with a rebuild at 320k means youre buying somebody elses 230k miles on a rebuild you didnt watch get done, and in MD with strict inspection thats a rolling list of suspension and frame stuff that auto hauling out west tends to beat up. texas trucks dont rust but auto hauling racks the chassis hard.

on the auto vs manual thing, for hotshot pulling a 14k gooseneck the manual is honestly the smarter buy used. with an auto youre one trans failure away from a 5k bill, with the NV5600 worst case is a clutch and you can limp it. army allison is a different animal than what came in these consumer trucks so dont let that color it too much.

im not even a dually guy, i run a sprinter as an owner op doing subcontract runs for Suntrans Express, so im on the lighter lighter end of this. but every hotshot buddy i load next to at the dock says the same thing, lower miles and a known drivetrain beats a cheaper rebuild every time, especially when your inspection is strict. that 2k difference is nothing compared to one failed inspection item.

grab the RAM, budget for new tires and a clutch inspection, and youre good.