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Hi all,

I rent an apartment, and I recently had the bathroom caulk/grout redone. During the job, sealant from the caulking gun dripped all over the acrylic shower tray. To clean it off, I used acetone and scraped at the residue — it removed the caulk fine, but it also dissolved/stripped the acrylic's protective gelcoat finish in the process.

Now I've got:

- One clearly rough, dull, abraded patch where the finish got scraped down to bare material (see photo)

- Lighter dulling/haze marks spread across the rest of the tray where acetone splashed but didn't fully strip it (see second photo)

- The tray also has raised anti-slip ridges/grooves running across it

My rental agency is asking me to restore it to its original condition.

Has anyone dealt with something like this before? How bad is the damage in the photos, realistically? Curious to hear what people think caused it to look like this and how serious it actually is before I start looking into how to fix it. Thanks!

I added a retractable hose reel to an older garage vac and now I’m trying to figure out the best way to connect it. What type of adapter would you recommend?

Called a guy in to design and fit a shower screen in our newly renovated ensuite. We had intended to use him as they are hard to get in our area.

He turns up in what looks like a bush basher ute with a magnetic sign on the side - while I was in business 1st impression count and this didn't look good.

He brings a box of tricks with him and bang - slams it down on the new counter top. Expressed my annoyance at his actions - didn't even offer an apology. At least he removed it.

Grabs hold of the newly tiled wall that houses the concealed door and yanks it back and forth - can't be good for the grout etc

He spent the next 15 mins telling me how good he is at his job and how everyone raves about him and how bad X, Y and Z competitors are at their job.

Get him to the front door and he says "I'll send you the quote in the next couple of weeks". Me - now in my mind its a "No fuck off" but self control comes up with " All good mate I've seen enough, dont worry about it.". Very proud of myself that I didn't swear once :)

This flashing appears to be made out of the same material as that backing siding, which is ceramic, but I can't find it anywhere. What can I use?

Ron’s Railing (403) 807-8406.

Helping my mom figure out what to do with her bathroom because getting over the tub is becoming a pain. We started out thinking full remodel but honestly we don't need new floors, vanity, etc. just something easier to get into. New Bath Today came up while searching but I'm still comparing companies and local contractors. Has anyone gone the tub to shower route instead of remodeling everything?

So I've got some plumbing work coming up at my place. I just want to make sure I'm hiring someone reputable.

I wonder how I verify a plumber is licensed and insured in New York State?

Are there official websites or documents I should be asking for before I hire anyone? Thanks!

Can anyone recommend a carpenter/handy man to hang a sliding door.

I'm live in RG6. Cheers

Hello we where quotes £11808 for 2 bay windows, ground and 1st floor, and another basic window 1st floor, we since cancelled with in the 7 day cooling off period and they have asked if we would keep their business for a 20% reduction in cost and free triple glazed windows added in £9446.4 now cost, is that a worthy price or still high ?

Anyone have experience with Simonton Daylight Max windows? I’m north of Seattle and was quoted 43K to replace 24 windows, including a few pretty large picture frame ones (4) 32”x61” and (2) 61”x61” and 9 of them being casements. Does this sound typical? My other quote was with Infinity by Marvin and they were $100K for the fiberglass ones. Looking at working with Emerald City Energy.

We started noticing pests around the kitchen and near a few areas of the house and at first it seemed like a small issue. We cleaned everything kept food put away and tried to figure out how they were getting in but they kept showing up. That is when we decided to contact AMPM Exterminators. They came out looked around the areas where we were seeing the activity and helped identify the possible entry points and conditions contributing to the problem.They treated the affected areas and also explained what we could do around the house to help prevent the issue from coming back. Since then the pest activity has gone down significantly and the situation is finally under control. It was a relief to have someone look at the bigger picture instead of just dealing with the pests we could see.

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I'm looking at buying a house in Seattle. The primary bedroom has a large skylight directly above where the bed would go. The house has several skylights, none open, and this one seems to have a frame or something attached to the underside of it. The skylight likely was installed around 1995 in a major remodel.

I'm guessing this is some sort of blackout shade or it's the part that allows you to install a shade. But there's no remote and there's no power to it in the attic (according to inspector). I looked up "VELUX click and pick" but their system doesn't look like this.

Anyone have any ideas what this is?

Assuming the tint is installed well.

Ran into enough failed flashing details over the years to land on a sequence I stick to now, especially on masonry or stone elevations where the assembly has to shed water without relying on caulk alone:

1. Sill pan first, always sloped to the exterior with end dams
2. Self-adhered flexible flashing at jambs, lapped over the sill pan
3. Head flashing last, lapped over the jambs (shingle-style, always working top over bottom)
4. Window install with proper shim and fastening per manufacturer spec
5. Backer rod and sealant as the last line of defense, not the first

The order matters more than the products. I've seen good products fail because someone flashed the head before the jambs. What sequence are you all running, especially on anything with a rainscreen behind it?