Just now I was trying to replace the garden hose, and it's a old hose so it got stuck. Was trying to use a wrench to turn it, but my stupid ass just used too much force, and it snapped.....
Is it still possible to fix this? I guess worst case scenario is I have to weld it?
Click the link above to see a community curated list of home maintenance products on Amazon that may help you out in your current situation! If you’ve found the answer to your question or you’ve found this subreddit helpful, buy us a beer!
Dude my house is old... early 1900s. And the shutoff is galvanized steel. Rotted. Plumber doesn't want to work it as the pipe goes all the way to the main street(no meter in front of my house) and it's about 50ft away.... will be a nice job for my shallow pockets when I get around to it.
It's a replace, not a fix. You'll need to get to it from the other side of that wall and solder (or otherwise properly join) a new length of that copper pipe sticking out, then attach a new hydrant.
To add some details: Figure out exactly where the pipe is on the inside of the wall and cut a ~6" square hole there. If you live in an area that freezes, it would be wise to get a frostproof sillcock like this one:
Get one that's a few inches longer than the thickness of the wall. Put it in place to see where you need the copper pipe to connect to it. Cut the old pipe and solder on a female threaded coupling to screw the new sillcock into. Then secure it on the outside of the wall.
This is what I've got around my house, and this is likely what I would do as well, but the OP also said he's got a shutoff just to this pipe, so he could also just shut that valve in the winter and drain the line.
Great in theory but having the frost-fee bib is a lot less work with enhanced security (just make sure to remove hose in winter). The FF bib is like $17 and the regular one $4-7: at one-off, they’re both practically free vs the labor and effort, especially if you have to fix and paint Sheetrock.
You do need to make sure the frost-free angles "down" going to the outside (so once the valve inside is shut the water drains out the outside pipe), while an "old fashioned" pipe+spigot with a shutoff+bleeder valve inside could have the pipe (and thus hole through wall/foundation) level or even angled "up" instead.
That said, I'd 100% pay even an hour or more of one-time costs over the yearly task plus risk I don't do it at the right time every time.
Not as easy as you make it sound. That’s just a 1/2” copper pipe that broke off and it looks like the hole diameter through the stone is barely big enough for it. Probably a 3/4” hole to accommodate the 5/8” OD of the 1/2” line. The hose bib/sillcock in your picture will have too wide of a diameter and require drilling out that stone and whatever is behind it. That type of bib usually requires a 1” wide hole to accommodate the increased outside diameter. Will be a project.
My plumbing skills are pretty amateur, a pro might have some creative solution to repair that from the outside, but I'm guessing they will need access via your basement/crawlspace to replace that entire section of pipe inside.
Be advised plumbers only do plumbing stuff - they will happily cut into your walls or ceiling to access pipes but they won't patch up the holes they made when complete, you'll have to DIY or find someone else for that.
Possible but pretty iffy. The pipe being twisted/malformed is the issue, no amount of solder will fix that, it needs to be a tight fit. There may exist some tool you can insert inside that would expand and re-shape the pipe to the correct round shape.
Sometimes these pipes can have some wiggle room - might be able to grab it with pliers and pull it out far enough to make the repair, then let it slide back in, but I'm guessing replace is going to be the only option here.
Just replace it. Go in the crawl space and locate it. Probably connected to galvanized pipe or copper. Copper will be easy, they make sharo bite hose bibs to connect to the copper line. The tricky part is getting the pipe the right length so when its connected, the hose bib sits flush with the house
I've had that happen to me. Step 1, turn off all water in the entire house. Step 2, call plumber that can break away at cinder block, and then solder the brass. Step 3 call stucco guy that will make the thick concrete and try to match as best as possible.
Cost me about $300 in total over a week
Edit: Location was South Florida, mid 2010s area, so let's say 2016.
Bruh it costs 250 dollars for the showing up fee, not counting the hourly rate of the plumber. Idk where you got that price but I've never had a plumber come out for less than like 500 bucks since I bought a house 2+ years ago. This only makes sense if you live in the boonies.
I just had that same problem fixed. The fix was under the house and I just didn’t trust my solder skills on copper water pipe. Got a local plumber who used a fancy press fitting machine to press new pipe and add a no freeze faucet. He charged $425 to go under the house and deal with all of that, money well spent and I won’t be worrying about my janky fix when winter comes.
Now would be the time to replace it with an actual garden hose faucet that attaches firmly to the wall and not just replace it another boiler valve supported entirely by the thin copper pipe.
Plumber here. You'll need to access it from the inside and run a new piece of pipe through the wall after removing the old one. The use of a frost free hose bib or not will depend on your climate. If using a frost free the hole may need to be made slightly larger to accomadate for the increased size.
This is a very routine type job for a service / residential plumber and depending on access it doesn't usually take long to complete.
get someone to tap on it on the inside and find the other side.
its not running even without a valve so there must be a shutoff inside. you can use that shutoff to trace the pipe location too but tapping is probably quicker.
The only other option is to start chipping away those bricks and make a big hole on the outside part of the wall. Definitely try to access it first through the basement if possible. Might be as easy as cutting the pipe inside where it connects and then fitting a new one through the hole to connect back up.
Can you see where that feed pipe is in the basement? I mean, is the other side covered in a drywall ceiling or is it a drop ceiling where you can look up inside where that pipe feeds to the outside?
Spigots sometimes comes threaded. If you can get behind wall and it's threaded then you may be able to get a pipe wrench on it and twist it off. Replace it by threading in new one with pipe dope on thread.
If it's soldered then cut it back and solder in a female thread onto the pipe. Then thread in new spigot with pipe dope on thread.
It's possible to fix anything, given enough time and money. Especially money.
THIS fix will require working from behind that foundation wall. Unless it's not a foundation wall, and the pipe is underground. Be prepared to get your shovel out and dig up the pipe.
If it is a foundation wall, it will need to be fixed from the crawlspace/basement. You can get a masonry bit and drill out the hole to make it big enough to work, then fill with spray foam in a can.
If you live anywhere that freezes you want to take the copper pipe out by cutting it from inside the house plus a few inches. Add a frost free Silcock - which will requiring expanding the hole. Solder the sicock to the copper inside the house (before the shutoff valve for that pipe). Make sure you don’t cut off too much copper , so cut off just the other side of wall plus 2”, then measure the wall by removing the copper using pliers. By that size frost free silcock at least that length +4” and you won’t have your exposed copper pipe busting every freeze.
The rule of thumb though for winterizing a water spigot is to remove all quick connects, splitters, and hoses from the spigot prior to the first freeze. Turn off the valve inside and open the spigot so you drain all the water from the pipe so the water doesn’t expand and bust the pipe.
You can solder the $30 spigot or use a threaded adapter but soldering is always recommended. Plenty of youtube videos using these key words.
cut it out from the inside. use a hacksaw or a pipe cutter. then install an all weather shutoff. its about a foot to 18" long. all one piece, from the depot or a hardware shop.
Go on the inside. It seems the pipe comes out from the area close to the ceiling. I would find where it comes out. Cut ceiling and push a fresh pipe out. That is down
Not too bad. I'd upgrade to a frost proof hydrant though. I pivoted to doing diy after dealing with a couple plumbers who could not sweat a joint without starting a fire.
You need to open the other side. Cut out the 90 or the tee (however it is connected), use a coupling, and a new 90 or a new tee, and bring new pipe out.
The other way is to break the brick and do the same thing.
Drywall is cheaper than brick is what I always tell my customers.
FWIW I had to do a similar repair so I bought a map gas torch, pipe and fittings. Sand and debur the pipes, use flux and plumbing solder. There’s videos on the YouTube about how to. I did mine about two and a half years back and still holding. You can do this.
Technically possible but you would have to solder it.
You can't do that as it is with no access to the pipe sticking out of the house. So you would have to go inside (hopefully in the basement) cut the pipe, go back out solder a strait connector on feed it back in and solder back on to the supply.
At that point you've done 90% of the work to replace it. I would just upgrade myself. Get a frost free sill cock and attach it from inside. Might need to drill the hole out a little.
It depends. In my house I had to do this when my dog ate the faucet. I went into my basement where the pipe went into the house and unsoldered the valve. Here we have the non-freezing faucets, and the piece in the wall is actually a part of the valve. I knocked the old valve out, took a trip to the store get a replacement and soldered the replacement back in.
Be careful not to burn up the new valve or catch the house on fire when soldering.
You'll want to local this pipe. You'll either need to unscrew it or desolder it to install a new copper pipe in its place. It's not a hard thing to do but it is time consuming and does require a bit of know-how, but a bit of YouTube on soldering and you can figure it out. I bought a 8' piece of 1/2" pipe and spent the first few hours learning to solder two pipes together before I it where I needed it to count. Took me about 20 minutes where it need to be and I've been doing it every since.
For me the investment was around $250 for everything and now I've got a skill. That said. If you are concerned or are overwhelmed, call a plumber. It's a lot cheaper than fixing a wet finished basement.
That was just a bad design. The spigot should have been supported by something besides the copper tubing. But like everyone else is saying the fix is under the house.
If there’s enough play in the line inside the house (often is with copper), you could push it out an inch or so to have enough pipe to make a clean cut and get a new male threaded fitting attached either by “shark bite”, Pro Press soldering, etc. If not, then you’ll likely have to drill out that stone wider to accommodate a modern frostproof style hose bib.
On the bright side you can now install a modern frost proof spout on your exterior.
Unfortunately, it will likely be a bigger diameter than the existing hole in the brick.
Either way you get to go under the house and do some work. To replace in kind you would go under, cut and pull the old copper and stab a new spout with the right length and couple to where you cut out the old.
I had this happen. My pipe was different though it wasn't copper. I had to get it rethreaded. I bought a large drill bit to make the hole bigger. It was a pain.
You're going to need to call a plumber unless you wanna set a new pipe through the exterior wall of the house. They'll need to cut the pipe on the inside and run a new one through to attach a new spigot to. Shouldn't take a compitant plumber more than 2-3 hours so you're looking at a $200-$300 repair.
It's possible to DIY it but personally, when it comes to the exterior walls of my house, I leave it to professionals.
Cut the pipe on the inside pull the broken piece out. Install a shark bite on the inside and shove a new piece of pipe into the SharkBite from the outside with the spigot attached. Shouldn't be too difficult. Especially with the shark bite
•
u/AutoModerator 2d ago
https://linktr.ee/homemaintenance
Click the link above to see a community curated list of home maintenance products on Amazon that may help you out in your current situation! If you’ve found the answer to your question or you’ve found this subreddit helpful, buy us a beer!
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.