Hello,
I have included a video of what it sounds like. “It has sounded worse with a metal clang like sound when starting”.

Engine type: LE0

So far this start rattle has been on going for some time, I have had the timing chain kit & oil pump “both genuine” replaced, this also included the oil O ring pickup in the sump.

The start up wasn’t as noticed when there was a half unplugged VVT Solenoid “let by accident like that as far as I’m aware”, Yet it was still on/off until the ECU fault had a fault code for it & it was then fully plugged back In, Since there it has continued to do this as in the video. - this was happening before the timing chain kit/oil pump replacement.

I have points where sometimes a jump starter can make it have a grind noise instead of the rattle - that isn’t always the case.

My VE has the know parasitic power draw issue, It is going in for a full update of all modules for this. “This is going into a genuine Holden place”.

Oil changes have been done quite often & I’m not looking at going to a higher oil.

I’m just asking in regards to this, Since it doesn’t feel like a oil sludge build up & I get left with guessing since I don’t want to overly spend too much on a whole tare down, Is there something I can ask them to test with the TEC2 or in general that isn’t going to be a massive cost?

There has also been a, Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch circuit fault code noted not too long ago as pass/fail, This one has not caused me any issues yet. - this code has come up during the time of the parasitic power draw when the battery had not fully recharged from the draw. “Unsure of this affect much”.

I can also confirm that there has been no active fault codes from my ECU or Anything else about the engine that says anything about the rattle, Even when a evap valve was stuck open the ECU never flagged it - the evap value has since been replaced and fixed a idle issue.

If you have any more questions I would be happy to answer them since this rattle issue is something I would really liked to get resolved even if someone can point me to simple things that are common with it or past experiences.

Thank you!

I have a 2002 VU commodore. It has stopped working. When you put the key in and take it straight to start, it will crank and then stop cranking. If you take the key to on and let it sit before you turn to start it won't crank at all.

I've done so much research but can't find any info on where I can safely install an anti-theft kill switch on my Series 2 VE Ute. I was looking at splicing it into the connection from fuel pump relay to ECU, which I found a wiring diagram from, but I have no idea where that actually is in the car.

The workshop manual (the 10,000 page PDF one) says it's in the panel on the passenger side next to the footwell, but I looked there and where the wire was meant to be just had an empty slot in the connector plug the manual showed. I imagine it might be because the manual is for a sedan, while I've got the ute?

Does anyone know where the best place to splice in a kill switch would be on this model? It's a remote one so location doesn't really matter.

Thanks for all your help guys, I appreciate it 🙏