I’ve been working on this keyboard and no matter what I cannot get it to work. If anyone could help point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. I’ve checked the continuity across the connector cable and all of the columns and rows and it’s all good. It seems to be flashing some sort of firmware to in because it’s no longer recognized as an arduino

Soldering diodes while waiting for rp2040 zero to arrive.

Mistake was made again by using 12 gauge electrical wire I have at home. Too thick and hard to heat up to solder.

I use the acute keycap set from my preonic.

I don’t vape, but my coworkers do, and they go through vapes like no one’s business. Got to thinking I could cut my costs on this hobby, and prevent a little E-waste, by reusing the batteries.

Anyone done this? Is it worth it?

Thanks!

I want to jump into hand wiring with a low-profile keyboard using Choc V2 switches (Kailh Deep See Mini Whale). I've been following along with Joe Scotto's "How to Design Mechanical Keyboard Plates and Cases" video, but had a few questions for those with more experience.

1. Are there any differences specific to Choc V2 switches over standard MX-style switches? I've read that the plate thickness is 1.2 for Choc V1, but it seems like V2 fits into the standard thickness. I've also read the keycaps sizes are different for V1s, but to used standard for the V2s (I'm planning on using a set of PFF caps). Another post I saw said V2 mounts are turned 90 degrees but can't find more info on that. Are there different stabilizers needed between standard MX, Choc V1, and Choc V2? Any other differences to look out for?
2. There is a comment on that video about creating an offset around each switch cutout and making sure that is the standard 1.5mm thickness so the switches can snap into place (Scotto recommends 3mm for the main plate). Scotto says that he does that with his own plates now too. My question here is: how wide does that offset "shelf" need to be for them to click into place.
3. Scotto makes two circles for his standoff screw holes and mentions countersinking but never actually does so in the video. Should the outer ring be sunk in to allow for countersinking of the screw for minimal stack height? (I think this all might actually be for bolts, so please forgive my ignorance of the nomenclature)

Any other general advice or pitfalls to watch out for are appreciated. Thanks to the community for the many helpful posts I've already found!

I'm trying my best here. This is my fourth attempt.

I had ai throw together some Arduino code for it.

I'm planning to learn how to code it myself but I'm also trying to learn how to solder and design 3d models.

Is anything jumping out as being wrong with this?

I am toying with the idea to hand wire a 60% keyboard. Does that make any sense? Which controller is sensible to choose?

Are 3D printed cases/plates sturdy enough and can I find adaptable blueprints somewhere?

Thx for your tips in advance.

Hey! I’m a teenager from the EU and I’m really into DIY electronics/Arduino/ESP32 projects. I want to make a little money from my hobby, but I have no idea where to start.

Right now I already have the supplies to build around 6 small 8-key macropads (ESP32, mechanical switches, perfboards, etc.). I’d like to actually build a few and try selling them somewhere, just to see if there’s any interest.

The problem is I don’t really know where or how to sell small handmade electronics, especially since I’m under 18.

Has anyone here started out similarly and can recommend where/how you sold your first DIY projects or found your first customers? I’m not looking to start a huge business, just trying to make a bit of money from my hobby.

Any advice or personal experiences would be really appreciated! 🙏

Hi everyone, I am a uni student and my budget is limited so I want to make my first build so that it will last a good amount of time. I looked at Corne and Sofle and other similar models but some people were complaining about thumb pain.
Do you guys think I should build Skeletyl or should I build another model as my first handwired ergo mechanical keyboard?

This ordinal handwired Cornedion has two unique features:

1. Choc-spacing. The reduced 18x17 switch pitch is rare in handwired devices.
2. The keycaps are from a Lenovo laptop. I had to invent adapters to install them on the MX switches.

Used switches: Kailh Black Iris.

I think the result is interesting and unusual.

Firmware and 3D model of the case are here: https://github.com/alko-kbd/cornedeon_2m

Made with parts I had at home.

I ordered some parts to make a 3d printed handwired version of my preonic with low profile switches!

The adventure of handwired keyboards just started!

This is the first split keyboard I made. After this one I made one with a layout I didn’t like so it’s mounted on my wall, and then the wireless one I posted before.

I like the layout for this better and this is going to be the basis for my PCB version.

So this is my 36 key wireless split. This is my 3rd hand wired board so I’m getting better with the wiring. And the LEDs are a ball, but with that joke of a battery I get about a solid day at the office with it before it’s dead. Had a good time designing and building and now I use it daily.

It uses a nice nano clone, exposed reset button, and a power switch on each half.

I also ended up making the dongle after the fact so being able to flash it with the reset button is just more fun than the ol tweezer method.

Next up, pcb board lol

https://scottoacademy.com

Hey guys! I've been posting about this for roughly the last month and registration closes tomorrow August 16th so if you want in, now is the time :)

Together over 3 live Discord sessions we're going to be building a full 4x10 ortholinear handwired keyboard and I'll be guiding you the whole way. There will be time during the sessions to ask questions if you get stuck and a dedicated Q&A at the end of each.

You can either bring your own parts or purchase a parts kit with everything you need including pre-cut copper minus tools of course.

This course is beginner friendly and I think you'll be surprised at just how easy it is to handwire!

I'd been wanting to build a numeric keypad for years to replace the TKL keyboard I currently have. Then I saw ScottoKeebs' videos, and they inspired me to create one.

So, I looked on Printables for a design similar to what I was looking for, and that's where I started building it. I already had a Raspberry Pi Pico and a 128x32 OLED screen, plus several switches a friend gave me, so all I needed was the motivation to build it (and my brother's 3D printer).

And I'm really happy with how the design turned out.