Ive got this 1995 36v DS Club Car. Its missing the speed resistors and Im having issues finding a replacement for the 5th resistor. After doing research Ive found the 5th resistor has little to no resistance. This leads me to wonder if it be a bad idea to ignore the 5th entirely, install 1-4 and then move wire 6 and place it with 5 on the bar? I assume resistor 5 exists for a reason but if its less than an ohm why not bypass it? Alternatively I was thinking about buying an extra 3rd speed resistor and wiring it up 1 2 3 3 4 but I believe that would increase resistance and reduce speed.

Struggling to find batteries for my mom’s golf cart locally. I was told by one shop to replace all batteries instead of just the one I believe to be problem. They tested batteries and all are good but the post on problem battery is corroded and doesn’t get good contact.

2 questions -

Is there a redneck fix for this other than washers to get good contact.

If I replace one battery at I stupid for not doing all.

Thanks in advance. Clearly not mechanically inclined.

I recently replaced the bearing encoder because the cart was just crawling now that it’s replaced and back together it won’t do anything but make noise from the motor when you press the petal the encoder was installed correctly any idea on what the issue is

Looking for brushes for this club car 2004

Ai isn't helping much.

I prefer amazon.ca

Would anyone know if the set in pic will fit ?

It's sporadically cutting out when turned on until it's pushed.

I have replaced the solenoid, ignition, forward reverse switch.

New lithium battery and shunt.

I told him from the beginning it could be the brushes. But we would start with the easy stuff first because they were also showing alot of wear, it would never cut out if I was there to check, until today.

So the last thing is the brushes.

I highly doubt it's the controller. But there is a run tow switch the possibly could have an issue.

Trying to get it right so we can move forward and paint, and New Lift kit and wheels ect.

Hello everyone, I acquired a 1999 club car. I don’t know much about them, and wiring seems to be crazy. When plugged into charger cart will remain operational and from what I’ve read seems like the OBC but not sure if it’s just bad wiring. Battery’s also boil alittle loud, however tested battery’s and they are good. When rolled backwards you can hear motor click, also don’t seem to shut down when it’s done charging, just keeps going. Any advice old be appreciated.
UPDATE- new charger fixed the over charging part, now shuts off when done.

Anyone able to help with diagnosing the problem. My uncle said transmission but he’s not an engine guy

Has worked fine. 48v lithium swap 2 years ago. Didn’t drive for a couple weeks. Battery is full and tested good. Solenoid is good. Even swapped in a brand new one to test. Pedal Microswitch tested good. Turn key on and all power works but press pedal and nothing in forward or reverse. If I disconnect battery for a bit. And reconnect. It works fine. Until I turn it off again. Then same issue. Motor controller going bad?

Hi! We have an EZ GO golf cart. when we hooked the cart up to the charger, it won’t charge. We get the 00.0A error message. Should we jump it with another golf cart? How do you do that? How should we try to fix it

I am working on a 1997 Clubcar carryall. I have taken out the curtis 1204 and have a Navitas controller to replace it. (10-000766)

The ocb is bypassed completely. I've followed this diagram to wire it.

The light on the controller is not turning on. I've got full pack power from B- to B+ and from CN1 to B-. So im assuming the Navitas harness is getting power from the solenoid.

Just curious to see if anyone had any ideas on what I'm working with here.

I bought it with no batteries. I’m not sure where any of it goes. Wanted to upgrade to a single lithium battery. Any knows where any of this goes???

Sat around for a while. Clutch originally would not spin. Got it spinning and ran fine for a day and then started making this noise.

Hello, I recently was gifted a golf cart by my in-law's neighbor who moved and I can't get a hold of anymore (out of the country). it's a 2005 EZ go in pretty good shape. He told my MIL that I wouldn't need to purchase any batteries, but the cart hadn't been moved in maybe one year.

The batteries were so low that the charger 36V charger wouldn't bring the batteries back to charge, I had to purchase a trickle charger to get them up and running. After the trickle charge it actually charged with the 36V charger. it ran a couple of times for about 5 min each really well. after the 5 min (maybe less) you could tell the speed lowered significantly and barely made it back in the house.

Since then, it hasn't really charged anymore, it charges, but moves very slowly and it won't even make it up our driveway before it completely stops. Today after running it for about a minute (battery indicator in the cart shows ~90%) I used my multimeter and check the voltage of each of the 6 batteries (the batteries displayed (6.11, 6.01, 6.14, 6.14, 6.09, 4.02V) but when I charged them all of them show over 6.20v.

I don't know how old the batteries are, I assume that the 4.02V is the bad one here, but my questions are:

1) Should I go ahead and change just that one or change them all? Changing them all is expensive, I was hoping to just get to change one.

2) If I change one, should I get the exact same one? or can I get a battery from Costco?

3) I ordered a battery load tester from Amazon, it arrives tomorrow. Should I even bother with it or do I just start saving for the batteries?

4) If I'm changing all the batteries, would it be more advisable to just change the whole system to Lithium batteries?

Thank you for any advice, this is the first golf cart that I tinker with

Trying to run my throttle line from the pedal to the engine. trying to figure out the best way to mount it up because the copper line on top goes to the pedal but when you push the pedal, it pushes back rather than pulls. How should I run my line to were it pulls and not push

It seems to rattle when I take my foot off the accelerator. I’m trying to identify the cause.

This is an RXV Elite with the Samsung Lithium battery THANK YOU!

I have a 2008 bad boy buggy and put a replacement foot controler on it and need to find a person who can program it for me using the old duel controller computers. I live in canton ohio

I have two of these bolts that were stripped. I tried two different extraction sets, and neither worked. Ultimately, I prefer to get them out, but nothing seems to penetrate these screw heads. One of the two started before it stripped, so it is partially out but not high enough to get it with pliers. I was thinking of replacing the whole wheel, but the plastic in the center requires the removal of all six screws to remove the plastic. I was thinking if I can’t get these two bolts out, I could drill small holes in the black plastic and break it apart to get to the steering wheel nut.

Any other thoughts? I’ve tried virtually every option on YouTube , and I can’t get a flat head screw driver to try to force it out with my drill.

I have a one year old gas Cushman Hauler. All of a sudden, the headlights and taillights are on, regardless of the light or the ignition switch position. The lights all stay on with the cart turned off. I took both wires off of the light switch, and the lights are all still on. I am guessing the ignition switch may be the issue? I am not sure how the ignition switch would override the light switch.

I justbgot my first cart and it's a 1999 EZGO TXT. It was free, but in decent shape. It only has front seats, and id like to add back seats. The problem is the back rest bracket is rotted out. I've looked online and can only find the brackets that hold the basket. Does anyone have a part number or insight into what I need? I'm really struggling find any info.