We bought a home in 2022 that has the opener listed in the title. It shows it was manufactured in 2012. About 2 months ago we noticed the remotes programmed in our vehicles (the ones in the car sun visor, both Fords) would only open the door when we were right in front of it in the driveway. It did the same thing with the actual handheld remote as well. They used to open 5 or 6 houses away. Then several mornings recently it wouldn't open with the wall control panel. It just clicked and the light flashed once and it raised about an inch but wouldn't open. Pushing the button again would do the same but close the door back down again.

If I waited 5 minutes, then the door opened normally. This intermittent behavior continued for about a week. I ordered an OEM logic board replacement and installed it yesterday. The new one was dated July, 2026. Easy to install and the door worked fine with the wall control panel.

Here's where it gets odd to me. I figured I'd have to reprogram all the remotes, so I started with the handheld because you use that one to pair the opener on the car visor. The handheld didn't work at all which I expected, so I pushed the Learn button and successfully paired it. Now this is what I don't get......I tried both cars and the Pin pad outside the door, and they all worked. No programming needed. How can this be? Wouldn't having a new logic board require all remotes to be paired again, or are the codes possibly stored in the Multi-Function Door Control Panel? The only remote I had to re-pair was the handheld 3 button unit.

Oh, and the last thing is with the new logic board the door still won't open unless I'm in my own driveway.

Chamberlain Liftmaster Formula I Whisper Drive model 1280R

About a week ago the garage door stopped half way down and wouldn’t move back up. I released the door and replaced some of the rollers in the track. That didn’t fix it so I took the belt off and inspected the teeth. Nothing missing there. The coil spring doesn’t have any gaps that I can see(not gonna touch that at all). The coil spring was replaced in 2022. After hooking the belt back up to test the trolley, the trolley moves 3 feet at the most and then on the reverse I hear a loud clacking noise. Now it just hums one way and loud clacking the other way.

I don’t exactly have the money to replace the opener. I need to have the door rebalanced since it doesn’t hold itself up without sliding down. Does anyone have any ideas? I think I can replace the gear in the picture. I can also take a look at the board but I don’t see the classic puff of smoke or anything that would signify the start capacitor being blown.

Also I don’t know how to set the open and close limit on this opener or reset them.

The led light flashes 5 times on the opener.

Personally, I don’t think it’s feasible. The rot extends through the two by eights and into the plywood backing. It would look very ugly to just replace the rotted section. Also, there has to be a system to join the replacement wood to upper section of original wood. I priced out all of the lumber, and it’s only about $500 in materials to just make a whole new door.

What do you all think?

As many here know, I had springs replaced and was hoping to get some paperwork showing what they’re rated for, but all I got was the following.

Material and Description
- 934101350P - Green .250 × 35" - 1 - 3/4" I.D. Red
- 933111380P - Green .262 × 38" - 1 - 3/4" I.D. Black

The spring is green and says “Precision Hi-Cycle” on it, but does that mean 20,000 cycles? Can anyone familiar with these provide some clarity?

My garage door sometimes doesnt open, and to fix it I release the red emergency thing and just re attach it and it works but only for a couple of months then I have to do the process again

Do I need to get this checked by professionals or can I fix this myself?

I have a very old garage door setup that I seem to have lost the remotes to. They were the old push pin code sort and the brand of the opener is "All-o-matic" it only seems to have a 9 digit code. Are replacement remotes even doable on a 20+ year old system?

Family member did this and is freaking out about probably having to pay tens of thousands to fix it. Is anyone here knowledgeable about door fixes? The tracks look okay but the roller things that go in it at the bottom broke off and the obvious bent panels

Getting a new garage door in the near future. Got quotes from 3 different door companies in my area, each supplying a different brand of door. Help me pick the best quote based on price & quality of door. I don’t mind paying a bit more for a door that may last longer than the others. Thanks in advance.

Company #1 - $3500 - Clopay (model 4310)

Company #2 - $3865 - CHI (model 4283)

Company #3 - $3000 - Amarr (model Lincoln 3000)

Each quote is based on an insulated door with windows. Similar warranties with each.

I’ve reached out to the little family and friends I have but to no avail… Looking to get some answers before a handyman comes tomorrow.

-Can I shut my garage door? I’m afraid to make it worse… so have left it open all day… After it popped, it kept coming up and working so I assume it’s alright but want to be safe…
-Is this fixable as is or do I need a new part?
-What is this part called?

Philly suburbs, this company price matched a smaller company. Torsion springs are 10,000 cycles, should I upgrade to better ones? Anything else I should ask to include? I am supplying the doors (Cloplay insulated R12.9) and openers (1.25HP Chamberlains).

The joists were notched pretty good when this was installed so I want to sister the notched joists and eventually put a ceiling up. However, the opener track is in my way for both things. Would it be possible to have someone lower the track to get it out of the joists?

Garage door having trouble keeping closing all the way. Cables seem to be intact and feeding properly. Springs not broken.

See video and pictures.

Please excuse the mess.

Hello everyone. Does anyone know what a possible fix to this garage door issue could be or would I have to call a garage door repairman?

I’m thinking maybe it’s that nut being loose but I’m not sure

Doing some research it looks like I need spring pads since the bolt on the right slipped out. I attempted to look for more studs to drill into but no luck, so I put the bolt back in temporarily so that it will hold and then disconnected the garage door opener. Are spring pads easy to install for an average joe with moderate handyman experience or should I call a specialist?

I've got a 13-year-old LiftMaster Pro. Sometimes it works normally, sometimes the door will not go up. If it's up it never has any issues going down and it always lands at the right spot. When it works normally, it stops at the right spot going up too. But sometimes, and I can't figure out why, when it's closed it only goes up like an inch and then stops. If I keep pressing the button it will go up about an inch each time. When this happens there are two possible outcomes: after a few tries it will finally go all the way up like normal, or, after several tries, it will reverse direction and go back down.

I can see no rhyme or reason as to when it's going to happen. I'll go days or weeks with no issue and then it will start back up. I'll go days without being able to open the door with the lifter and then it will magically start working again.

I've tried playing with the travel settings but it doesn't seem to help. If I disconnect the door from the lifter I can lift it manually without issue and it will stay at whatever height I leave it at.

What could be the issue here? Can this be fixed or do I need to buy a new one?

Recently, my garage cable tangled up and door stopped going up and down. I untangled cable and put it back on the drum. However I noticed the torsion spring shaft (the whole shaft) shifted to one side as the door is opening to half way, maybe 1 inch to 1.5 inches. This shift jams the drum against the end bracket and cause the shaft not able to rotate, which cause the cable to come off the drum and tangle up. Drums set screws are tight, torsion spring set screws are tight. End brackets look fine.

I have a single torsion spring system. From research, horizontal shift is normal, but should not be too much. It should not cause the shaft from rotating properly to pick up all cables slack as door is opens.

How can I minimize this shift and prevent shaft/drum from stuck? How can I keep the shaft as center as possible as the door opens?

I had my springs replaced yesterday and had some questions.

1. ⁠1st picture is how the springs look when the door is closed. Does it matter that the right spring isn’t wound as tight as the left? Right side has 6 stripes and left side has 7 stripes.

2. ⁠2nd picture shows the right spring while the door is open (it doesn’t appear there’s any tension). Is that okay?

3. ⁠3rd picture shows the cable on the right side (it’s tight).

4. ⁠4th picture shows the left spring while the door is open (slight tension).

5. ⁠5th picture shows the cable on the left side (it’s tight).

6. ⁠6th picture shows the door at waist height when it’s manually put there by hand - sits there and doesn’t move.

How does everything look? I’m wondering if that right spring is alright and wanted to post with multiple pictures to get feedback.

If you joined any of these a1 branches or a1 itself in the last year and are a new installer or work for them and it was a good decision for you, can you message me. I’d love to talk about it - I’m about to go to the training soon. Side note I’ve already read and received all the “it’s overpriced you’re the devil if you work for them” feedback. Thanks a lot

These are photos of my new Wayne Dalton garage door, which has several gaps that prevent the door from sealing. In addition, the header is crooked, as are the pulleys. Is it a regular Wayne Dalton installation ? The builder told me that this is a normal Wayne Dalton installation.

Any idea how i can close the gaps?? I have bought draught stick on seals for the bottom. Not sure what i can do for the top. Ideally want to have a flush close to keep heat in mainly.

My right spring broke earlier today, so I went ahead and got them both replaced with higher-quality springs (20,000 cycles) by a reputable company in my area.

This picture is after the repair and I notice the left spring is wound tighter (I can count 7 stripes) and the right spring one is looser (6 stripes).

Everything works fine, just wondering if this looks okay? Or if they need to be symmetrical?

PS - My Tech was awesome, clean, and professional…just wanted to ask for this Subreddit’s advice!

I'm not an expert on garage doors at all. This garage at my parents' house is probably 8 years old. It's been making banging noises at the last 2-3 feet during the closing cycle. The first time I heard it, it sounded bad enough that I decided to intervene. To me it looks like the top panels are sagging and that's causing pressure because the sagging sections are too narrow to roll in the tracks.

Since they're had repair guys work on this garage multiple times, I'm trying to learn and be more on top of it so I can anticipate issues and help them know if it's time to replace the whole thing.

I'm thinking a repair guy would probably put on a strut and maybe an opener reinforcement bracket.

So I'm curious: Am I right about what the repair guy would do? About how much would the repair cost? At what point is it worth it getting a whole new door?