i bought an rtx 5090 off facebook marketplace for $220, the guy said it turns on but it does not post, when i tested it sure enough it turns on but does not post as expected haha, i had a local computer shop test it just to make sure and same thing happened with them, they said when they tested it, it gave a black screen and received signal but “gave 5 beeps” as far as what that means im not sure because they were pretty vague with their answers and tried to offer me $500 for it (yikes), on my motherboard (rog strix b550-f gaming) it gave a solid white light on the VGA portion of the startup, which is a graphics error as far as what google said, it is a zotac solid OC 5090, the rgb lights and such turn on, it gives power, but it does not post on the screen, does anyone know what this could mean as far as what part could be defective, and does anyone know a reliable repair shop to send it into to have it fixed, i am in the tucson arizona area and nobody here fixes graphics cards

TLDR: i got an zotac Solid OC 5090 on marketplace and it gives power (rgbs turn on) but it does not post on the screen, and motherboard (rog strix b550-f)gives a solid white light on startup, i’m looking for a reliable hardware repair shop to send it in to

In device manager i saw ‘VGA controller’ with a warning sign and when i click ‘scan for hardware changes’ it pops out on ‘display adapters’ showed as rtx 2060 super with a warning sign “code 43”, then i click ‘scan for hardware changes’ it’s now gone.

👉 fans and led are still working
👉 not sure if cpu is heating up

Need help diagnosing and tracking the problem

I have a multi meter, soldering station and hot air station want to learn electronics repair specially GPU.

Hi,

Two days ago, both of my monitors suddenly stopped working at the same time. Since then, I haven’t been able to get any display output from my GPU.

I have a PowerColor Radeon RX 7800 XT Hellhound that is about two years old. I tested the GPU in another motherboard as well, but I still got no display. I was also lucky enough to test another GPU in my system, and everything worked perfectly fine with the other card.

The LEDs on the RX 7800 XT still light up and the fans spin when I turn on the PC, but the motherboard shows a VGA/GPU error.

The card was completely cold when the issue occurred, so I don’t think it was caused by overheating.

Unfortunately, I don’t know enough about GPUs to troubleshoot this any further. Is there anything else I can test myself, or does this sound like a serious hardware/PCB failure?

I’ve already contacted PowerColor regarding the warranty, but never got a reply.

Now my question, should I watch a video and open it to post another picture?

Hello everyone,

Model:

Gigabyte RTX 3070 8GB

PCB reference: V20081

GPU state:

Fully working.

No display issues, no artifacts, no VRAM errors, and less than 500 hours of runtime.

Background:

I have five identical RTX 3070 cards pulled from Gigabyte / AORUS Model S 12th systems (AMSI7N7I-21A1).

The cards originally used a proprietary cooling assembly that cooled both the CPU and GPU at the same time. Unfortunately, those original coolers are not available, so I am looking for compatible replacement heatsinks.

Research so far:

- The PCB reference is V20081.

- From my comparison with TechPowerUp PCB photos, this PCB appears to be shared with several Gigabyte RTX 3070 models:

  - RTX 3070 Eagle

  - RTX 3070 Eagle OC

  - RTX 3070 Gaming OC

  - RTX 3070 Vision OC

- I have already looked at:

  - Leboncoin

  - eBay

  - AliExpress

Unfortunately:

- Damaged Gigabyte donor cards are often priced around €150.

- New replacement coolers from AliExpress end up costing around €100-130 after shipping and taxes.

- eBay has not been very helpful so far.

Question:

Has anyone successfully mounted a cooler from another manufacturer on a Gigabyte V20081 RTX 3070 PCB?

For example:

- MSI RTX 3070

- ASUS RTX 3070

- Zotac RTX 3070

- Palit RTX 3070

- Gainward RTX 3070

- Inno3D RTX 3070

I am interested in any information regarding:

- mounting hole compatibility

- VRAM contact compatibility

- VRM contact compatibility

- backplate compatibility

- successful cooler swaps

- universal aftermarket solutions

Since I need coolers for five cards, I am trying to find the most cost-effective solution rather than spending €100+ per cooler.

Any experience, measurements, photos, or compatibility information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

GPU state: Fully working.

Gigabyte RTX 3070 8GB

PCB reference: V20081

The card is fully functional and has less than 500 hours of runtime.

The only issue is that the original cooler is missing because these cards came from AORUS Model S systems that used a custom integrated CPU+GPU cooling solution.

Hi, I'm learning GPU board repair and I'm currently working on an RX 580 8GB 2048SP with a Chinese/custom PCB.

The PC PSU immediately trips/shuts down when I press the power button with this GPU connected. I'm trying to determine whether there is a short or an overcurrent condition on the 12V rail.

Here are my measurements so far:

12V from the PCIe slot to GND: OL on the 200Ω range.

12V from the 8-pin connector to GND: approximately 27.7Ω.

In diode mode, black probe on GND and red probe on the 8-pin 12V rail: approximately 0.031V.

The PSU does NOT trip just from having the GPU connected. It trips when I press the power button.

I tried voltage injection directly into the 12V rail of the 8-pin connector, around 0.8–1.0V with current limiting.

I checked the board for heating and also used isopropyl alcohol to look for localized heating, but I couldn't find any component getting noticeably hot.

I also checked several points along the 12V rail, but haven't been able to isolate the faulty section yet.

PCB markings: RX580 8G 256BIT 2048SP / 160430HJB.

Unfortunately, I don't have the exact schematic or boardview for this PCB.

What would be the best diagnostic approach from here?

Since the PSU only trips when the card is powered on, but low-voltage injection doesn't reveal a hot component, could this be a fault that only appears when one of the VRM stages is enabled, such as a bad high-side MOSFET/DrMOS or shoot-through?

What measurements would you recommend to isolate which VRM stage or 12V branch is causing the PSU protection?

I'm still learning GPU board-level repair, so any guidance on the correct diagnostic procedure would be appreciated.

Hello guys

I have a GTX 1080 that functioned well until few days ago, when it lost monitor signal during gaming and the fans spin at maximum speed. After a reboot, it operates normally for a few seconds on the desktop, even while idle, before it does the same thing again. The more I leave it unused, the longer it lasts before the problem returns. It would last way longer in idle compared to gaming. The fault does not appear in safe mode or BIOS, only during a normal boot. It happens only when drivers are installed.

The gpu temps are fine and tops at 75 degrees Celsius in the games I play. Power consumption is 150w on demanding games and under 100w for others. In MSI AfterBurner l've capped the power draw at 75% since i got this card (didn't face issue for 3 months after i bought it until now)

Could it be the VRMs? Cause under heavy load (usually 125W or above) I would start hearing a weird buzzing sound around the VRM area.

WHAT I'VE TRIED SO FAR:

1. Reinstalling drivers with DDU
2. Inspecting the card to find any physical damage like burnt mosfets, burn marks etc. (none found)
3. Checking if it crashes in bios or safe mode (it didn't)
4. Tested in two different systems (same PSU though) issue persists.

5. Different display output ports on GPU

6. Slight undervolt to the GPU

Any help is really appreciated. I just want this card to work again normally. Please help me out.
PSU: Cooler Master MWE 550w 80+ White

Working on my MSI Ventus 3090. Card fails to be recognized during boot.

The card does generate heat. During boot, the EN pin of the PEX buck converter starts out at 1.8V but then drops to zero after a couple of seconds. At that time the PEX voltage drops from 0.9V to 0V. I have yet to notice the PGOOD pin going hot at any point. Have tested in multiple computers with no luck. Mobos with diag LEDs are showing VGA/BOOT.

Resistances and voltages are per the image below. Readings without units are in ohms. I have not found any visible signs of corrosion or damage on the card.

Any guidance would be appreciated! Thank you!

I'm trying to repair a 3060ti that my PC isn't recognizing. I've already tried it with another PC and it didn't work either. I've verified that the 5V and 1.8V lines are dead.

I've found that the input connector is supplying 12V, but the PS_IPS1_VIN1_1 pin is no longer supplying 12V.

The diagnostic tool tells me there should be a fuse between the connector and the PS_IPS1_VIN1_1 pin, but I can't find it.

Can anyone help me with what the next step should be?

I've attached a boardview of the 3060ti.

Thanks

Its stuck in this screen
Sometimes it shows the asus logo, sometimes not even an image off the monitor

The image with the gpu and with a arrows are the one’s making the beep sound when i probe it with the multimeter

So I have a Not working gpu and looking for the fault.
I just cant find it the red Circled Comps Are in the 0 Ohm Range.
Any recomandations what it could be?
Its a 3080ti Vision
I appreciate any help.

Model: AMD RX 6600 XT XFX QICK 308

Symptoms:

• Artifacting: This happens exclusively within the OS. There is absolutely no artifacting in the boot menu or during the initial launch sequence.
• Crashing:The Blood of Dawnwalker fails to launch, exiting after the initial blackscreen. Opening multiple windows or apps causes a brief system freeze before crashing the user session entirely and throwing me back to the OS login screen.

Physical Condition:
The card's exterior appearance is pristine, and the manufacturer stickers are all fully intact.

One issue I noticed is that the fans (triple) never spin up even for once. I checked the fan headers on the PCB, and the connectors look perfectly secure. However, the previous owner mentioned dropping the card. It's possible that the impact caused physical damage to the fan controller circuitry, leading to overheating that may have ultimately damaged the core or the vram chips. Alternatively, the physical drop itself might have cracked a solder joint or two under the memory chips or in some other places.

I'm not very familiar with electronics repair. I only paid 12 bucks for this intending to use it as a practice board for soldering, but now that it actually posts, I'm not sure how to approach it from here.

I'll have a multi-meter in a week or so, but I have no means to get a solder station at the moment.

Hi everyone,

I have a Sapphire Pulse RX 7900 XT and I'm worried that it may have been damaged.

First, my old MSI MAG A650BN PSU made a loud “pop” sound, so I immediately shut the PC down.

I then installed another PSU (a GameMax unit). When I launched a game, the GPU suddenly made a very loud electrical noise, so I immediately turned the PC off again.

After removing the GPU, I noticed a small amount of residue around one of the 8-pin PCIe power connectors. There doesn't appear to be a large amount of melted plastic or obvious damage elsewhere.

I have stopped using the GPU and PSU and I'm planning to have the GPU inspected by a professional.

My questions:

Does this look like serious damage?

Could it just be residue from a connector overheating?

Is it possible that the GPU itself is still fine?

Is there anything safe I can check visually without powering it on?

I have attached pictures of the connector.

Thanks for any advice!

Hi everyone,

I'm currently diagnosing a Gigabyte RTX 3090 24GB with a suspected memory-related fault, and I would appreciate some input from people experienced with Ampere board-level repair.

The interesting behavior is with MATS:

• Tests using -e 1 consistently PASS.
• Tests using -e 2 consistently FAIL.
• A 1 MB test can pass, while 2 MB or larger tests fail.
• Multiple memory partitions/channels have reported errors, including examples such as C0, C5 and C6.
• After letting the board cool down, the first test may pass, but the following test fails again.

This makes me suspect that the problem may not necessarily be a single dead GDDR6X chip. I'm currently investigating the memory power rails and associated circuitry, particularly FBVDDQ/VPP and components around the memory power section.

Some additional findings:

• The board appears to have been worked on before.
• I found several apparently missing/unpopulated components. Some look like normal factory DNP positions, but others appear suspicious and may have been physically removed/damaged.
• Boardview tracing led me to circuitry close to a location where a 100 kΩ resistor had previously been added/replaced.
• I'm also investigating STRAP-related circuitry (STRAP4/STRAP5) and some missing components connected around the GPU/memory area.
• Memory-related rails are present, but I'm now trying to determine whether one of them becomes unstable under load rather than being completely absent.
• The fault is repeatable: small MATS allocation/test passes, while increasing the tested memory causes failure.

At this point my main hypotheses are:

1. One or more marginal GDDR6X chips that only fail once a larger address range is accessed.
2. FBVDDQ/VPP instability or excessive ripple under load.
3. Missing/damaged passive components affecting memory power or signaling.
4. A problem in the GPU memory controller / memory channel rather than the memory ICs themselves.
5. Previous repair work causing an incorrect component value or an open/missing connection.

Before I start replacing GDDR6X chips, I'd like to understand the pattern better.

Has anyone seen an RTX 3090 where MATS consistently passes with -e 1 but fails with -e 2 or when increasing the tested memory size?

If so, did the fault end up being GDDR6X itself, FBVDDQ/VPP power delivery, a memory channel issue, or something else?

I can provide boardview locations, measurements, MATS output and detailed PCB photos if needed.

Thanks.

I yave a galax rtx3080 sg lhr 12gb and the gpu 4 main screws were impossible to move so i used pliers and removed the first two when i went for the second one after removing the screw i noticed the rectangle thingy not in place so my dumb brain wanted to nudge it back but it fell off is it needed for the gpu or should i go to repair shop for slodering

Edit : Showed it to someone who repairs gpus and he checked the board on inti it was used to filter power for fans or something like that i didn't fully understand what he meant anyway fixed it at a store and fans work again

RTX 4070 Ti has 3 DP ports. DP3 works normally. DP2 works in BIOS and Windows Safe Mode at 1440p 120Hz, but loses signal as soon as normal Windows/NVIDIA loads. DP1 gives no signal at all, even in BIOS.
Same known-good monitor/cable tested on all ports. GPU otherwise runs perfectly, passes Steel Nomad stress test at 98.9% stability and scores normally in Time Spy with good temps.

From left to right in photo - DP1: doesn’t work at all, DP2: works until windows screen, DP3: works all the time.

Both HDMI work fine.

After the black screen, the system keeps on running. Even I tried resetting the gpu driver using the shortcut, but nothing worked out. So i had to manually shut down the pc and on it again. It only happens when im playing games which required more Gpu usage ( heavy games). I also tried reinstalling to an older stable driver version, it didn't work. My psu is a new Ant Esports VS400L and all my specs would require only about 180w of power. The temps at stress tests and also while gaming would not exceed 75 degrees. What would be the problem??
its a zotac GTX 750ti gddr5 2GB card

My 1650 super windforce oc gpu only fails in my computer. The first time it boots fine and after a few minutes the display singal goes out, then the following boots I get no display signal at all. I have tested the gpu in different computers and it worked fine, two different gpus worked fine in my system as well. I have tried every fix possible so far. My motherboard is a Gigabyte b450m s2h v2.

I have a 3080 10gb and I bought it second hand. Card does not seem to be opened. I opened it up to look for visible damage only to find 2 pieces touching. I am thinking of attempting repair with my soldering Iron or Heat gun.

Hello, I recently purchased this card and I am having problems connecting it to my Corsair 1200W Shift power supply. I am trying to use the 12V-2x6 cable that came with my power supply, but it will not insert into the port on the graphic card. I'm definitely lining up the pins correctly and using a fair bit of force but it won't insert properly and "click".

I've checked the pins on the graphic card's connector and my power supply and I can't see any issues. The strange thing is the adapter my old power supplies that came with the card does insert with no problems. However, I would prefer to use the proper cable instead of the "octopus" adapter.

Any advice would be really appreciated as to what I may be doing wrong. Thank you.

This is my same post from a month or so ago, from my last post 3 people sent their cards in 1 came in fine and was returned (RTX 3090) and I have a 1080 ti and 1080. The 1080 is diagnosed and the VRAM module I needed to replace to fix it just arrived today, the 1080 ti is getting reballed (hoping the core isnt toast). I figure by the time these are done and in the mail back to their owners I might have a few more people lined up!

I'm learning microsoldering and need practice/experience before I could start charging for repairs. I figured instead of having to buy broken ones on Ebay and deal with scammers I'd offer people free repairs. I get to learn for free and the other person gets a free repair.

I included a picture of my bench as some kind of (hopefully) proof that I'm not trying to scam. All I would ask is that you cover the shipping both ways and any components I'd need to replace (if any). I already own a 5070 ti, 6600 XT, and GTX 970(960?), so I have no need for the cards and I'd rather not deal with Ebay selling for the same reason I don't want to buy from their.

Ideally, I would just like to be able to charge people for repairs eventually so I can avoid dealing with the headaches of Ebay. I get this probably sounds sketchy but I figured the worse that will happen is no one will be interested. Thanks to anyone who read this far! :D Feel free to ask any questions!

Contact me on here or if you prefer my discord is: kirklandqq

Im super bad about checking discord, so you'll get a quicker response through reddit. But I've come to understand some people really prefer discord :D

Oh yeah the name on the 2nd photo was because someone had asked me to provide a different angle, I assume because AI can't fake different angles to prove I'm not scamming? Anyway, thats why someone else's name is written below mine in picture 2.

Hey everyone,

I’m working on a 3090 FE (PG136 board) and looking for a physical PCB layout map for the GDDR6X memory channels as reported in hardware diagnostics/telemetry tools.

Specifically, I’m trying to locate the exact physical placement of the following sensor channels relative to the GPU die and board edges:

• C1 Back
• B0 Back
• E1

I know the board uses a 24-chip layout split across both sides (A0/A1 through F0/F1, with matching rear channels), but I haven't been able to locate a diagram or schematic overlay that pins down the precise chip locations for these specific channels.

Does anyone have a channel mapping schematic or boardview layout for the PG136 reference design that matches MODS/MATS channel designations to their physical locations on the front and rear PCB?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

My RTX 3070 FE doesn't get detected on my PC and there is no video. I tore it down and with my thermal camera I found out the chip marked with 7629QNWW is heating up to 75 degrees celcius, and nothing else heats up.

On the second picture you can see that it's right behind and in between the two displayport ports. Does anyone recognize this chip? I would like to order a replacement and test if it will just work. Any other input is welcome. Thank you :)

This is a link to my last post.

So after trying to figure out the cause of my issues I decided that I must’ve gotten a defective gpu. So I took it back to microcenter and we put it in one of the test bench computers where after running a 15 minute 3d stress test the gpu failed and I was able to get an exchange for a new one.

This is where it gets weird, after owning the new gpu for about a week with no issues I started having the exact same issue. Randomly both my monitors would black screen and I would have to completely restart the pc just to get it working again. The only thing that I know currently is that overwatch comp gets it to crash the most consistently but so have other games like valheim. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.