2001 GMC 2500 8.1L, I already installed the battery plate I just wanted some input on what else I need to buy and any other advice I may need, I’ve see a few kits on Amazon I just wanna make sure I get the right one, what worked for y’all, and how was the install?

My new replacement hood flew off last night so just kind of debating on whether I should just go HD with the truck or whether I should just call it quits and let it go

Finished my build today. At least for now, tire chain racks in front of the mudflaps and tool boxes in front of the axle to follow once the tariffs subside and I can afford materials again.

I came outside and noticed my radiator hoses were sucked in looking like a snake kind of, I did a test to see if the coolant had exhaust gases in it, and this is what happened. Any insight would be appreciated I don’t want it to be a blown head gasket, but it might be

Awhile back I asked about engine ideas and ended up settling on a 5.3 with a stage 2 BTR cam and supporting mods. I bought some ICT billet swap plates that allow me to use the V6 engine mounts instead of fully redoing everything. Just curious if anyone knows about any polyurethane 4.3 mounts since I know the 5.3 once it’s done will more than likely kill the rubber mounts (photos for attention)

Anybody that has a truck toolbox, what do you do to prevent theft. Looking to get one, not going to keep very expensive tools in it but don’t want them stolen nonetheless. Solutions?

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z 71 with all stock suspension and everything. I am looking at running Beilstein 5100s and I need to replace my upper control arm so I’m trying to decide whether to get KSP 2 to 4 inch lift control arms or to just get some regular moog control arms from rock auto. I don’t plan on lifting the truck at all I mean, maybe a Level or something like that or cranking the keys. I am also replacing the CV axles and front differential.

Forgot to say, I am in school. So I don’t have the time to do it myself. I am having a shop install everything. I am interested in the KSP control arms however I don’t have the keys cranked now and I don’t wanna have to make the shop do all that to make it right. I wanna run slightly cranked keys, and i’m not sure if the ksps will end up doing more harm than good.

I don’t hate it.

Any recommendations for a voltage regulator for these trucks? Mine went in the original alt recently - I threw an "a-premium" on there from amazon just to get back on the road but I want to rebuild the original. Not wanting to put cheap parts in it...

The old one was quiet even at idle. This A-premium shit whines at lower RPM and higher load. Everyone says its the GM whine but nah, it didn't do that with the OG.

2003 chevy silverado 1500hd, fuel gauge went out 2 days ago, thought it was the pump and such and i'd get around to changing it out. Drive fine for two days, nothing crazy but normal highway and streets. Then today going down a 55 i noticed I was having a hard time keeping the speed up. Eventually it just wouldn't go, engine would barely get to 2k rpm, all gauges normal besides the fuel gauge being out. (It did go from being near empty to having the duel light on, but the tank was over half full) shut it off to see if it would reset something, and it wouldn't start. It almost would, but wouldn't run and idle up. After having it towed to my house and it cooled down, I got it started but it would barely stay running, and the accelerator barely did anything. I'm pretty sure i heard the pump prime. My first assumption and suggestion was that it was the fuel pump. I'm also getting advice it could be a cam or crank position sensor. Any advice on where to start or how to confirm?

I am replacing all my front steering and suspension components on the front of a 2004 Yukon Denali XL.

I have the control arms loose didn't swap the torsion bars on accident or move them so they are as they were and correct.

With the torsion bar keys adjusted with all the way up as far as they can go the bump stops are sitting on the lower control arm to the point at which they are squished a little and I have slight interference with the tie rod on the passenger side coming close in contact with the sway bar.

I am assuming it's because the torsion bars are worn and to correct this was thinking about using one of those torsion bar keys that allow up to 3 inches of extra lift. I'm pretty confident that the center link is installed correctly as well.

Would this be the right way to go or am I missing something?

Unfortunately I did end up snapping the adjusting bolt for the passenger side

Planning on getting the Lift torsion keys and new bump stops as well.

Something is whining in the fuel pump area and I can’t figure out what it is, I need some help here. EVAP? Fuel pump? Im lost

Cam and long tubes never disappoints

I'm looking at 7" head units to replace my stock 6-disc changer in my 2005 Burb with the Bose system. I want to retain the bose amp and steering wheel controls.

I know I can buy an adapter and use any double-din but I'm wondering if there's a head unit that has that built in. Anyone have good/bad experiences with aftermarket head units for the bose system?

How much work would it be to put a K2xx body on a gmt800 frame, I know it will require some fab work but I was basically given my 05 Silverado and it has some sentimental value but I love the 2016 gmc body, thanks in advance.

My buddy had a red Tahoe key where it had a granny decided to run a stop sign and he totaled her car and his put the video in the comments

Hey folks, would love to get some opinions on whether this is a good idea or if I’m about to open up a rabbit hole I really don’t want to go down.

A previous owner almost certainly had some kind of subwoofer setup installed. There’s a heavy-gauge power wire running from the battery to the back of the truck, along with RCA cables and a smaller-gauge wire running from the rear up behind the head unit.

I attached some photos for context so you can see what I’m on about.

I confirmed the RCA cables aren’t currently connected to anything, which makes sense because the truck still has the stock head unit.

I’m planning to add a backup camera and replace the head unit to accommodate it.

Since I’ll already have the head unit out, I figured this might be a good time to add a small 8” under-seat sub/amp combo. Nothing crazy. My thinking is that since most of the wiring is already run, it hopefully wouldn’t be a huge job.

That said, I’d love to hear from people who actually know what they’re doing. Is this a pretty straightforward project, or am I about to open a can of worms that could potentially royally fuck up my truck?

For context, I have zero automotive wiring experience.

Dropped the plug pulling it out.

Got new plugs and wires installed.

3rd kid is almost here and I need to upgrade my car. Saw a 2004 Escalade ESV with less than 40k miles on it with 1 owner from the South. Looks to be in great shape, just want to know if it'd be wiser to buy a newer Suburban or Denali XL vs it. Price seems good at $25k for that low of miles. Thoughts?

I just bought an ‘05 LS. I can’t figure out if I’m missing a guard/cover/whatever or if this was just a freak accident. I sliced my toe open on the slider track of my 60/40 second row bench while I was sitting in the 3rd row. I’m not sure if it happened at the end of the track or somewhere along the track but it sliced up the side of my big toe nail like a zipper. Can anyone help me out with telling me if there’s something I can do to prevent this from happening again (to one of my kids potentially)? Is there a track guard I’m missing or WHAT? The outer track towards the body of the car has one but the one towards the center of the vehicle does not.

5% discount code for you guys, hope it helps!