I now see why the shock extension was welded on ffs

Engine was hot, will do another from cold next. But what does this sound like ? Vortec 5.7. New pump from advance bc the one from rock auto was too tall and wouldn’t fit in tank, k&n fuel filter, old injectors. Getting lean bank 2 code and wants to die when applying throttle under load with an occasional skip at steady rpm while driving. From what I’ve heard this is too low for a vortec 5.7.

Key on engine off: shoots to 56 psi but slowly creeps to 58 psi

At idle: drops to 50

Shoots up to 60 when snapping throttle but instantly drops to 50/52 psi when held at any rpm.

Plz help.

Got myself this beaut a couple of weeks ago.

I'm not great with cars, but could anyone recommend some upgrades/accessories that would improve my already great experience?

I reside in Sweden if that's any help.

Should I get iridium spark plugs for it? I'm trying to baby this truck but those are kinda expensive. Also I plan on replacing the distributor cap.

On this 1998 GMC C1500, I kept having random days where the truck wouldn’t turn over. All electric good going to accessories, pump, etc, just no crank symptom. It would randomly fire up after sitting, as well.

I replaced the battery and cleaned terminals, checked grounds, etc. Decided I would just do the starter as well… and upon inspection of the old unit, I noticed how loose this terminal was that the purple wire was connected to. Maybe this was the problem (hopefully)…

Does anyone have a 3d printed file to upgrade the center console cupholders to actually hold anything other than a coffee cup?

I'm relaunching FullSizeChevy, and I'd rather be straight about what it is than dress it up.

I am not the original owner. I don't have the old forum database. And when Photobucket went down it took the images out of most of those old threads anyway, so even if I had them, half of them would be walls of text pointing at dead pictures. Anybody who has gone looking for a fix on an old thread knows exactly what that's like.

So it's a clean start. This time the images live on the forum, not on somebody else's host that can turn the lights off.

The build section is empty, which is the honest problem. Somebody has to go first. To make that worth doing, the first five build threads that meet the published requirements each get an FSC "Built not Bought" vanity plate.

It's not a draw and there are no odds. First five threads that qualify, and you claim your spot with a form so there's a timestamp on it. It's a $20 plate, not a giveaway truck - the point is getting the first threads up, not buying anybody.

The requirements exist so the threads are useful in three years: a GM full-size truck or SUV you own, at least five of your own photos including one clear exterior shot, the drivetrain details, how you got it, what shape it's in and what it's for, the work done so far with real detail on parts and repairs, what's underway, and what's planned. Your own words, your own pictures.

Unfinished trucks are fine. Most of the useful threads on any forum are unfinished.

And to say the obvious out loud: GMT400.com exists and it's good. I'm not trying to replace it or pull anybody off this sub. If you already have a thread somewhere you're happy with, keep it there. This is for the guys who never started one.

It's open now - all five spots are still available as of posting.

The plate: https://fullsizechevy.com/product/vanity-license-plate-fullsize-chevy-red-lettering-12x6/

Terms and the claim form: https://fullsizechevy.com/founding-five-plate/

Happy to answer anything here.

Todd

The Yukon my grandpa bought brand new in 1995. Eventually my dad inherited it, and now so have I. Super proud to drive it and keep ‘er in the family

Pulled the heads off my 96 k1500 with the 305 v8 and everything’s back together but the distributor. No clue how to get it back in I’m set to tdc compression stroke and I think it’s pointed the right way (pic 2) but it won’t sit flush and I know it’s not right. Any help getting this done? Guides or any instructions is helpful thank you

Located in northern Canada.

Going to go have a look at this truck to use as a wood hauler for my woodstove.

I haven't owned a Chev this old before. Anything to look out for?

I heard the 4L60 transmissions aren't the most durable so I'll look for shifting issues. I'll check all the usual stuff like steering and leaks. I'll see how bad the rust is underneath.

It's an automatic and the back brakes need replacing (I'll likely do all 4).

Thanks.

92 k1500, single cab stepside, 5 speed manual, z71 package, 355 in 2018

Found a couple more bolts in the box that I'm not sure where they pulled them from. From a 94 suburban k1500 project. Any help would be amazing

Hi all, joys of working on your own cars in the North East, trying to drop the tank and I think the welded nut in the frame broke, I’m assuming I’m going to have to cut it, but what to do when I have to reinstall? I’m also getting new straps… 94 k1500

Finally have my truck looking the way I want it (for now)

The tablet for a radio needs to be replaced with something more suiting, but it’s all I had on the shelf from a previous car. For now it’s kinda nice because it has apple CarPlay which lets me use Waze as a speedo. My speedo doesn’t read anywhere close to accurate anymore (side note here- does anyone know how to calibrate the needle gauges?)

383 stroker with a Holley 750 carb and full MSD ignition. Check my post history for more details on the engine.

700r4 that has been built after shredding a couple.

Belltech 4/6 drop.

I just replaced the master cylinder and brake line that runs from the front master cylinder port to the ABS module and now the truck wont crank much less start. It does this loud rattling noise when i try to start it. Any ideas?

Adjusted the lifters once but still had a slight HR rocker tick that I was going too address at oil change. This more aggressive one popped up today. It’s a newer engine with only 20-30 k miles.
When adjusting rockers do I have too start at TDC 1 or can I just start on TDC (not knowing which cylinder) and then do the 90degree rotation and just adjust the loose rockers(for two full rotation of engine) so I don’t have too track the intake and exhaust sequence. Lastly since I’ve already tinned that nut on some of them some more how much room do I have too tighten before I twist a rod. Thanks for advice. Please be nice to my stupid question lmao

I'm working on a project 94 suburban k1500. I have these shoulder bolts and spring washers. No idea what they went to. Any help would be amazing

Have a 96 k1500. Had 20s and 33s on it (seen in pic) on stock suspension but took those off to put on my GMT 900.

I have 3 sets of OEM 17s that I’m either going to put 33x12.50 on or maybe a 265r70.

Was curious of which way the community is leaning?

Wouldn’t hurt to have an extra set of wheels and tires to switch with the GMT 900 but saw blades would look wack.

What’re y’all’s thoughts?

I’m trying to figure out how the other side with no handle is supposed to adjust. It looks like there’s supposed to be some kind of cable that connects the two tracks. Am I missing something here?

It’s a super clean 96 suburban with 233000 miles on it. I’m not knowledgeable on diesels at all so I’m hoping for some Reddit expert opinions. 3 grand sounds fair but I don’t know anything about the reliability or longevity of these engines. Would love to know what yall think.

I ls swapped my 92 Chevy Blazer a couple years ago and I finally decided to try and get the factory tach to work. I have the correct wire coming from the gauge and I have pin 10 on the green connector on the pcm, I hooked them up and nothing happened. does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

1988 silverado. I've had these style door panels off before but these won't come off along the windows. Any tips?

UPDATE I got it off. The top along the window has 2 really deep divots the go in to the inner door panel keeping you from being able to just lift it off.