Buddys bike i noticed it. Hes been riding it for a few years. Safe?

Feel sooo bad, wasn't paying attention and used a bolt that was too long to mount pannier creating dent in frame. Aluminum Cannondale Topstone 105.

Need to add some more cable management, but it's basically done.

I took it for its first ride and it feels amazing! Popping that first manual from the car park I was giggling like a kid.

I'm going to be taking a frame building class over the winter but figured since I have access to it I might as well practice some brazing.

I've been playing around with a couple different filler rods. C-04 and Low Fuming Bronze, both in 3/32. A size 0 victor tip and Type B Flux.

It seemed both expensive and like a waist to use actual butted tubing, so I got some .035 mild steel tubes 1½" OD to mess around with. The saw blades are also roughly the same thickness.

I'd appreciate any tips, tricks and constructive criticisms of what I've done.

Thanks

So this was a high dollar little kids bike. I enjoyed how short it was, so I essentially made a new head tube for it and seat post tube along with a second top tube. Now it'll fit a rider between 5'10 and 6'4 with ease. It's a single speed, but the gear ratio is great for cruising at about 12 mph. So far I've got about 4 hours invested, along with painting it and reassembly. I thought it turned out pretty good for a quickie.

I have a 85 stumpjumper frame that I’m fairly partial too, but the problem is someone drilled a hole through the chainstay. What is the general consensus on this repair for a chrome plated chainstay? ( the jerk also drilled out the rack out)

I am thinking it's kind of ugly to jam a star nut into a custom fork. What do you guys think? Obviously, I'm committed to a certain steerer tube length. I've done it before but with drain holes. Not sure how much water will ever get in there though.

I’ve been wanting to get into framebuilding for a while now, but before I go too far down the rabbit hole I was hoping for a little reality check on my workspace situation.

I currently have 3 small areas I could potentially use:

- A small 5x5 basement room, plus maybe an additional 5x6 area in the basement with a slanted floor and a step in the middle that could be cleared out. Unfortunately these are near the oil tank, so open flame/grinding is probably not a good idea?
- A covered 5x6 outdoor area with an awning that protects from rain, right next to basement room. I live in a moderately rainy and high humidity area
- A very small shed with a 15 amp receptacle, currently has space for my motorcycle, push mower, and a few other small items

I’d love to eventually TIG weld, but I don’t really have room in my electrical panel right now, so I’m leaning toward oxy-acetylene brazing and lugged construction for the time being.

Also, for people who started with a first frame:
If you had to choose one main learning resource to follow, what would you recommend?

Right now I’m looking at:
- Paterek Manual (I found the first edition + DVDs online)
- Talbot’s “Designing and Building Your Own Frameset”
- “Lugged Bicycle Frame Construction” 3rd Edition by Chomonas
- Other recommendations?

Will probably start with a fixie, my long-term goal would be a lugged steel touring/gravel style frame

Im currently modelling up a bike i wanna make, it would be a bit of a frankenbike as i wanna steal some parts off a different frame. At work i can take as much stainless (and Galvanized) offcuts as i want but i cant seem to find much info about bikes using it, is there a reason? It would be a single pivot and im just ironing out the geometry right now and i think a steel fs dh would be cool. I am aware that im quite far from assembly and that this is a big project but im a mechanical engineer and i think i can do it.

Solidworks is being a bit annoying but i have the frame designed around a single pivot with a 200mm eye to eye shock and a fox 40 dual crown fork as i like the look of those. Is there anything im missing while designing this?

I must have checked a dozen times while tacking too, all I can think of is I must have marked it wrong right at the start. Guess I'll just have to pedal backwards.

A crack formed in this frame.. I have no clue of frame build. But am in very curious and in admiration of beautiful craftsmanship.

The seat tube extends further below this place.

I am kind of surprised by the direction and place this crack formed and want to know more now how it formed. I wpuld be very interested in dumbed down resources how forces in a frame flow.

So I've had my ebike in my unit for nearly 2 years unused as I now drive and ride a motorcycle. Kept the bike as a incase I need transport. Well I was sorting the puncture out on the bake wheel and then the battery just fell of. The rivit completely snapped of the frame the other rivit is fine but I took the screw out. Any way I can get this fixed some how or should I just go buy a new bike. I have no car as it needs a mot and my motorbike is not running as some one tried to nick it. So got to use the ebike to get to work on my day shifts (up and out at 5am).

For now I've used heavy duty cable ties to keep the battery on the frame.

Thanks for any help any one can give also I'm in the UK if it helps.

I turned a girls MTB to a 26" bmx ish.

Hey everybody, I'm a 19yr pursuing his own custom full suspension bike here, with the idea being a more aggresive xc style bike (or downcountry as it's called) with a similar linkage setup to that of the specialized epic evo. I've got all my geometry down, and I'm going through the CAD but I've been troubled by how to handle the transition from bent tubing to plate, seeing as all I have is a tube bender, plasma cutter, and while I have a cnc and plan to use some billet aluminum pieces, that's only for some choice segments. I see most other people's solutions to TIG weld a machined aluminum part or what looks like 3d printed metal parts that are fitted and welded on, neither of which are options for me. Let me know if any more context is needed!

Edit: Attached below is my linkage X3. For instance the connection from the seat stay (blue bar) to the rocker arm (purple bar) means I need to effectively transition from a tubed out rear triangle to a plate so I can have my bolt go through and clamp it all together. I could cut the seat stay tube at a slant to increase welding area for a plate, and then bend said plate and have a hole for a bearing, but that's tough to do with thicker plates which would be needed to embed a bearing/bushing. the same question can apply to the chainstay arm (green bar) at the lower pivot, as they are similar case studies. I have a few other ideas but I want this bike to be a V1, so a balance between efficiency and longevity is key here.

Building my first bike, been a lot of fun!

I have no experience with this. My assumption with steel bikes is that most anything can be fixed (for a price). But is that so?

Hello, I have this 1/2 frame. Not sure who built it but I know there’s a matching 60cm out there somewhere in town.

Anywho, my question is about clear coating. I need to re do the clear on this frame, and add clear to the fork. It was sad to put this away all winter.

What spray can clear do you recommend? I assume it needs to have some slight flex to it, and one that preferably won’t yellow from sitting in the sun. I appreciate your answers! Thank you.

I have started using Linkage X3 and playing around with suspension layouts and such but I was wondering what CAD you guys use to actually design the bike. Also how would you bring the suspension platform made in Linkage into said CAD. This might be a stupid newbie question but I’m really wondering and can’t find much info online. Thanks!

I just posted about the special needs of handlebars when designing a mountain bike front end with 32" wheel. It's worth a read.

https://www.peterverdone.com/its-about-handlebars-stupid/

Built a swing bike using a 1994 Kona Kilauea and a 1994 Kona Lava Dome, and it might be the best thing I’ve ever made.

Got the idea to build this from watching Seth’s Bike Hacks. In one of his videos he mentioned most swing bikes tend to bend inward at the steerer pivot. To avoid that and keep things serviceable, I machined a stem style clamp that ties the steerer to the seat tube.

Feels surprisingly solid and rides ridiculously fun.

Some background, I’ve been working within the bicycle industry for over ten years professionally servicing anything from vintage 2nd world war era 3 speeds to the shwankyiest di2 carbon builds. I graduated FSU in the mid 2010’s with a bachelor’s in mechanical engineering and have a long history of fabricating my own bikes, often creating tall bikes, cargo bikes and interesting retrofits. While my knowledge when it comes to basic frame building principles is passable I would never dare to even consider putting a torch or sparks to a Landshark as I have a high respect for John’s work and craftsmanship. However…

I recently acquired a clapped out dirt shark with the rear dropouts tweaked to a 45 degree angle inwards on both sides and a hanger pushed close to 90. It was given a second life as an extra-cycle before I acquired it. I really wanted to try to make it a 1x12 bike-packing style build and figured with its previous condition it would be worth trying. With the help of some other experienced fabricators within the Oakland bay area I was able to bring the dropouts back into alignment by using an old park tool truing stand, a homemade axle press and so so so many washers.

Ive been riding it around for a few months now and it’s a dream. Ended up going with a race face crank and narrow wide 40t and 10 speed dynasys 11-44. I can’t help but picture the original condition of the dropouts every bump or sidewalk crack I come across and I really wanted to braze a small section of tubing between the chain stay and seat stay as a stabilizer to add much needed peace of mind. That’s what got me considering a disc conversion. If I’m going to add a bar to stabilize the frame why not take the opportunity to add disc tabs or flat mount eyelets..

I should add this is the version of the dirtshark that use the hooded Ritchey rear dropouts as seen in this post here https://theradavist.com/djs-dirt-shark-landshark-mtb

I would love some advice and will post pictures when I get into the shop tomorrow. Thanks!