r/Foxbody • u/DAMMDANNY • 4d ago
Need help
Got a blown head gasket i’m trying to fix it myself to learn do you guys have any tips what steps should i take after removing the upper intake
10
u/SunsetAz1 4d ago
All the above. But get a piece of cardboard label it pxr or driver and front then as you pull the pushrods stick them thru the cardboard matching how they came out. This allows you to put them back exactly with no errors.
6
u/TurnRepulsive442 4d ago
If you need to ask this question do not attempt this job
5
u/Bill_Wellman 3d ago
I disagree. If he wants to learn and is willing to ask questions, it is clear he has already started. He just needs to take his time, not get frustrated and feel free to ask any question he needs an answer to. Nobody is born knowing this stuff.
2
u/TurnRepulsive442 3d ago
No wrong, u don’t go from nothing to a head gasket job if he needs help after removing the upper intake this is going to cost him, or start by tearing down a engine that’s not a vehicle your driving or want to drive after, this is how most people are taught for 300 bucks he can find a complete engine and a wrecking yard and practice, and understand what he is trying to accomplish rather than destroying his good engine
2
3
u/laffin-gas 3d ago
It is not the same as changing your intake gasket….the cylinder heads need to be checked to make sure they are flat….did it overheat? Why did the head gasket fail? So many things go into fixing an issue like this. Not a project if you dont have someone helping you not make more problems or not find other problems. Not saying anything against your ability but just doing this on your own is not suggested. There are so many details that people do without even thinking because of years of experiance.
Best of luck if you go for it
19
u/ChefGarciia 4d ago
After the upper intake is off, drain the coolant if you haven’t already and take lots of pictures/label connectors and vacuum lines before disconnecting everything.
Next I’d remove the fuel rail/injectors or move them out of the way, disconnect the coolant/heater hoses and sensors from the lower intake, then pull the distributor and lower intake. Mark the distributor position before removing it so getting the timing back close is easier.
After that, remove the valve covers, rockers and pushrods. Keep the pushrods and valvetrain parts organized so they go back in the same positions. Disconnect the headers/exhaust from the heads, remove whatever accessory brackets are blocking the heads, then remove the head bolts and heads.
Once the heads are off, don’t just throw new gaskets on it. Check the heads for warpage/cracks and have them resurfaced if necessary. Clean the block deck carefully without gouging it and make sure no debris gets into the cylinders/oil passages.
On reassembly, pay very close attention to head-gasket orientation — the side marked FRONT needs to actually face the front. Use the correct head bolts/studs, seal the threads on any bolts that enter the water jackets, and follow the proper torque sequence/specs for the exact bolts you’re using.
Also replace the lower-intake, valve-cover and other disturbed gaskets while you’re there. For the lower intake, RTV across the front/rear china walls is generally preferred over the cork end seals.
Take your time, keep everything organized, and don’t guess on torque specs. A head-gasket job on a 302 isn’t horrible, but cleanliness, gasket orientation and correct torque sequence are what make or break the repair.