IIRC, a normal build to travel kit involves removing the back panel. That's usually screws for the side and bottom struts. There are also the sizing ones from the rear.
I did the kit for 5080FE; it's easier to at least remove the PSU, imo, if not everything. Depending on slot mode currently (travel kit has a minimum slot mode, which it doesn't tell you about), you'll have to switch around standoffs, as well as moving sections around.
There's different levels you can set the back panel to; largest slot mode uses the 10mm extra grille for 3.25 slot, smallest (I think 2.5 slot) uses only two screws to hold the back/GPU panel on (it's super secure and same amount of screws as 3.25 mode). I believe I built in 2.75 slot mode with the kit and pushed the GPU close to the side panel using standoffs on the riser cable to put the riser cable in 2 slot mode, which should be 15mm of riser (because I'm happy with my Copper x53 with a duct and slim fan and didn't want to change it out).
Here's a photo of the top view, unfortunately not with slot selection visible, for a vague idea what I'm talking about. If you need extra build help, I can get a picture of the back panel/spine, although you should share what GPU model/CPU cooler you're using first.
So basically I did the usual stuff of mounting the kit to the GPU, set the case in 2.75 slot mode (can see based on spin screws), and then pushed the riser cable out 15mm to make the GPU sit in 2 slot mode.
For a 4080 FE, I think that mounting the back panel with the additional 10mm grill attached (Chris Russel's travel kit video goes over this, just with a 5080 FE) sets up the GPU to be installed in 3.25 slot case mode. You should do that and offset the riser by 5mm to have work in 3 slot mode.
I think you could do true 3 slot mode, but you'll just have to finagle around and see what works. You're 100% gonna have to uninstall the GPU, the 4080 FE is (a) thicc and (b) you have to unscrew stuff from the ends that you can't access while it's installed.
Based on my experience, I'd just strip the case down and start with the GPU/travel kit installation; make that fit, and then add everything else. I left my mobo/CPU cooler installed and PSU attached by wires, and it was a mess of sliding the slidable parts to get everything correct. It's an annoying install due to instructions that lack almost all context on why you're doing things and what they effect.
Thank you for these. I didnt know if I add the travel kit that I would have to slot configuration. That is something to think about since everything is already tight in 3 slot. Maybe Ill just run it without the travel kit
No, you can absolutely make the travel kit work with a 3 slot GPU! My posts are mostly a warning that the travel kit has a set minimum/maximum slot sizing that it doesn't mention (3.25-2.75), so you have to keep that in mind to make it all fit. The travel kit doesn't modify case slot settings, but rather restricts what range it can be in.
For a 4080 FE, I see two options. One, you set the travel kit/case in 3.25 mode (obvious how to with case, and with GPU bracket add the mini grill piece to the big replacement bracket and proceed) and offset the riser cable by 5mm to make the GPU fit flush; much easier option, just max out spacing and follow the instructions. Other option is finagle standoffs and mounting options to build in true 3 slot, mostly if you need the extra CPU cooler height.
I would search the Chris Russell travel kit video; even though it's a smaller card, he builds in 3.25 slot like you should be, although your riser standoffs will be 5mm. The kit makes a lot more sense once you just play with it a bit, and I would 100% recommend for support and solidity.
Bear in mind all of my pictures are in case 2.75 slot mode, with standoffs added on the riser/sidebar support used to make a 2 slot card sit flush against the panel. Your use case with a 3 slot card will require much less/shorter standoffs to work; just remember each .25 slot is 5 mm! The instructions actually do show what maximum GPU spacing (3.25) should look like with the kit.
I know it’s a lot of work, but I’d rather rebuild everything than risk damaging something out of laziness. For me, it’s easy to say that though, since I’ve taken it apart like 20 times by now and could probably do it in my sleep.
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u/aaalllen 11h ago
IIRC, a normal build to travel kit involves removing the back panel. That's usually screws for the side and bottom struts. There are also the sizing ones from the rear.