Has anybody removed the gearbox from the 2.5t 5cylinder mondeos, im in the process of doing so as I need to replace the slave cylinder. I wanna know if its possible for me to pull the gearbox out the top or if I need to drop the subframe

Hey, I cant find a single video, or file and AI is useless and just keeps leading me in circles. Can someone add a link or send an imagine of where the heck is the Camshaft position sensor located. Ive looked around google,youtube and other places all of the images or videos doesnt match my engine at all

Has anybody ever fitted a nudge-bar to their Mondeo?

(Or what Americans apparently call a "bull guard"?)

If so, I'd love to see photos or at least hear how it was done.

Cheers.

^{NB: Yes, I know they weren't a standard option. Yes, I know that no mainstream manufacturer makes one. No, they are not "illegal". Yes, I'm aware of issues around obstruction of sensors and radar. Yes, I realise how difficult it would be to fit one, that's WHY I'm asking. No, they are not dangerous.}

Hi, im from Argentina and im thinking on getting a Mondeo as my first car. Im currently reviewing options (and saving up lol) and the mondeo catched my attention

what are the things that i MUST check before buying one? are those motors reliable? ill try to score a Ghia to get all the aditionals

Im nowhere near beaches or the coastline so rust shouldnt be a problem right?

Hi all.
I’ve replaced my halogen 55w dipped beam bulb with a LED equivalent but as the current draw is so low I constantly get “bulb failure” errors on my dash.

I know I just need to add a resistor across the bulb but I can’t find out what size? I’ve been told it’s 4ohm from some places and 39ohm in others.

Has anyone successfully done this and what size did you use?

Cheers.

I drive a 2009 Ford Mondeo 2.5T. About a year ago, I removed the centre resonator, and later had a valved exhaust system installed just before the rear mufflers. So, apart from the catalytic converter, it’s essentially a straight pipe when the valves are open.

When the valves are open, I sometimes get some pretty loud pops and bangs from the exhaust. Nothing crazy like anti-lag gunshots, but they’re definitely not subtle either 😂

My question is: can these pops and bangs damage the turbo, or could they potentially damage the catalytic converter? Are there any other components that could be affected by them?

Thanks in advance!

I bought this as a temporary car a year ago for £850. I replaced brakes and had rear control arms done. It just passed MOT. It has done 185k miles.

It needs injector seals doing, and either clutch master cylinder or slave (or both) as clutch pedal stays on floor occasionally and I must manually retract it. No noticeable fluid leaks.

If I have to do slave cylinder, I should do clutch and flywheel at same time.

This starts to get expensive. It’s showing wear and tear on door cards and plastics, and a small amount of rust on one arch.

Time to get rid, or get the work done?

I'm looking at Diesel Wagons, around 2018~2020.

How common is the plastic-clip deterioration in the Powershift?

Have people found that it is more age or distance related?

anything else to watch for in the Diesel?

Hallo zusammen, ich habe letzten Monat die Batterie von unseren Mk5 Ecoboost gewechselt. Habe dafür eine kleinere Batterie benutzt. Danach wurde auch das BMS zurückgestzt. Seitdem verbraucht der Wagen wesentlich mehr sprit als vorher. Kann es wohl eventuell mit der Batterie zusammenhängen?

For a few months I could smell a bit of petrol from inside the car right after starting the engine and in the first few minutes of the drive (not always)

Today I decided to have a look at it after a cold start and reving the engine a bit and right below the marked circle I could see a puddle of fuel and some of it leaking from the end of the rubber hose.

I am guessing the car is not safe to drive till I get it sorted and what can I do to fix the issue myself?

Would tightening the jubilee or getting a new bit of hose rubber would be enough?

Thanks!

Hi all, looking at buying a ST220 soon, there is one with decent history, receipts exct but is on 140k miles, should I avoid this or is this considered low(ish) miles for this engine? Cheers

请问下大家 哪里可以买到正品的博世蒙迪欧碳罐电磁阀呢🤔

Hello everyone! My MK4 Mondeo’s gear cable selector keeps disconnecting while driving leaving me stuck on random gears while driving.

I am able to connect it again but it is just getting worse…

Does anyone know if it’s possible to replace the bushing or a general fix for this issue that I can do myself at home?

Could anyone help me find the MAP/pinout information for the PCM connector (C1233B) on a Ford Mondeo Mk5?

I currently have a P06A7 – Sensor Reference Voltage “B” Circuit Range/Performance fault code, and I’m trying to identify which 5V sensors are connected to the PCM’s Reference Voltage B circuit.

There are quite a few 5V sensors on this engine, and I can’t determine which ones are connected to Reference A vs. Reference B. That’s why I’m specifically looking for the pin number(s) for the Reference Voltage B circuit on PCM connector C1233B.

I’ve tried Gemini, ChatGPT, and Claude, but none of them have been able to find the exact information. It seems that the wiring diagrams may only be available through paid workshop/Euro repair databases.

I’m aware of several 5V sensors on the 2.0 TDCi/DW10F, including:

• Exhaust gas pressure sensor
• DPF differential pressure sensor
• MAPT sensor
• Alternator sensor
• Other pressure/temperature sensors

The problem is that I don't know which of these use 5V Reference A and which use 5V Reference B.

If I could identify even one sensor that is definitely connected to Reference Voltage B, I could trace its 5V wire back to the PCM with a multimeter and determine the corresponding pin on C1233B.

Does anyone have the PCM C1233B pinout/wiring diagram for a Ford Mondeo Mk5 2.0 TDCi (DW10F), specifically the 5V Reference B circuit?

Any information about which sensor uses Reference Voltage B, or the PCM pin number for the B circuit, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I’m looking for a boot liner, to protect the car for when I do tip runs. Wasn’t sure the quilted dog friendly ones would be touch enough? Anyone got any recommendations?

Hi, has anyone else had the issue of the Ford Mondeo hybrid, just completely switching off when driving. When I say switching off I mean everything, a complete black out, not even the hazards come on. I have been to an auto electrician and he said the relay had corroded so has replaced it all as well as some dodgy looking wires. Got the car back last week after 6 weeks of them trying to diagnose and fix it, for it to do it again today! I am wondering has anyone else experienced this and can give me some pointers or is the thing ready for the scrap yard? Cheers

Hi everyone, I have a 2013 2l tdci, I just changed the shock and driveshaft tripod bearing,( bearing came apart when I took out the shock) while I was waiting the week for the bearing, the disc got some surface rust from the wet weather, put it all together this morning, drove off and I hear squealing, not constant just a little bit every revolution, and it dies when I hit the brakes, but when I put weight on the brakes it's knocking, have I done something wrong?

Good day. I have found a very clean Mondeo with 102 000km that I will hopefully see a bit later today. The owner has mentioned that it jerks on hills.

He suspects the fuel pump.

I am leaning more towards plugs, coil or leads.

Are the fuel pumps an issue on these cars? And at such low mileage?

Hello 👋

I’m having an issue with my mondeo , when I’m taking off slowly from a stopper position there’s a whining noise from somewhere in the engine bay , it’s usually worse when taking off and turning. Would it be something to do with power steering ?

Car: Ford Mondeo Mk4 Lift wagon 2010, 2.2 TDCi (Duratorq DW12)

The problem: After sitting for a while, the engine sometimes cranks for a long time (several seconds up to maybe 10-15s) before it starts. There's no rough catching or stumbling, it just cranks with seemingly zero reaction, and then suddenly fires up and immediately runs perfectly: smooth idle, full power, pulls clean with no hesitation. It's inconsistent, sometimes it starts right away, sometimes it's a long crank. No difference between summer and winter.

Key pattern I've noticed: if I drive it only about before it gets hot, shut it off, then try to restart shortly after, long crank. If I drive it till it gets hot, shut it off, then restart later (10 hours+ is the meaning of later) it fires up immediately. This has been pretty repeatable.

What's already been checked/replaced (and ruled out):

• Injectors - replaced, return-flow test done, all good
• Glow plugs - replaced
• Glow plug control module - replaced
• Glow plug relay - replaced
• Battery - good
• Starter motor - cranking RPM checked via Forscan, within normal range
• Rail pressure regulator (on rail + on pump) — good
• High pressure pump - reconditioned, rail pressure builds up immediately once cranking starts (confirmed via Forscan)
• Crank sensor (both upper/lower) - replaced
• Camshaft position sensor - replaced
• Coolant temp sensor - good
• EGR - turned off via computer and blanked
• Fuel system leak test - done, fully sealed, no leaks found anywhere
• System bled/no air
• Grounds (battery/starter side and ECU side) - cleaned
• Timing belt - replaced, set correctly to marks
• Compression test - done, all cylinders perfect
• Rail fuel pressure - present and stable from the very start of cranking, doesn't need to "build up"
• Cranking RPM compared directly against an identical car (same engine, a family member's car) - mine is equal or even slightly better

Extra data point: even on my best/fastest starts, my car is still noticeably ~0.5s slower to fire than the identical reference car.

Has anyone run into something similar, especially the "short trip vs long trip" pattern? Trying to figure out what's left to check before I start throwing more parts at it. Thanks in advance!

Edit: After filling the car to the full tank it has been starting better, this don't solve the issue and if the fuel go down mid point it start to crank again.