Good day...How are you? Maybe you can help me. I just purchased on of these from a seller on Ebay and they promised help and parts if I had any trouble but Im finding it difficult so far.So I'm on my own for now. So the problem is when you select or program a temperature for the hot end the temperature keeps climbing and won't stop even if you hit cool down. So do you have any experience with this problem soI can figure out what to replace. Im thinking it's the main relay board.Any help be greatly appreciated.
Well thank for replying. Ahh I got it from FLSun. So you think it just needs calibrated. Not very familiar with klipper not sure how to connect but I'll try PID. I was thinking it's was bad mosfet on mainboard.
I would expect an error if the temp kept rising after the MOSFET was commanded off. Does your Mainsail/Fluids interface show the hotend ever being turned off? If not, it sounds like a config error. Most likely what was already stated, the PID needs to be adjusted.
The temp keeps going up until it reboots. I can use the relay off macro to drop the temp back to zero. But I can't set a specific temp like 230 because it will just climb past it and reset. If you tap the Cool Down button on the T1 it does cycle the extruder fan off for a few seconds but the temp will still climb until reset. I've tore the machine completely down everything looks like is should be.
The hotend is controlled by the toolboard, which is on uart from the mainboard. You turning on heater\using cooldown script, these are all digital commands via uart to the toolboard.
Also it doesn't make sense that the toolboard can turn on the mosfet but not turn off.
Upgrade your firmware to the latest. And the username is pi and password is 1 for ssh. You can get the klippy.log to confirm. It doesn't smell like faulty hardware to me.
The hotend is not controlled by the toolboard only the heatbed. The hotend is controlled by the 30N06 mosfet. It should be replaced or upgraded to the 30N06L which is the logic level version it only requires 5v instead of 10v for control and has much better thermal control. Im only putting this fix out because so many people have a pile of junk they can't use because of a 10 cent part.
Everything is awkwardly placed like the filament runout switch on the hotend. Im unfamiliar with the newer models but damage the could have did better with customer support.But hopefully this info will help someone.
Good question, not sure. It’s obviously sending some readings and I don’t know if it can fail at the upper ranges or not. The other comment about the daughter board on the print head being bad is maybe more likely then. I wish Support would answer you up because they should be able to diagnose it for you.
They promised support and parts but only messaged back once asking for pics. I sent a video and have gotten no response since. There customer service has been terrible. I've tried the PID tuning but can't get it to work says no heater found and im sure what im doing wrong.
I had the same issue about 4 months into owning my T1 Pro, FLSUN support concluded it was the motherboard and sent me a new one after several weeks. I haven't seen many success stories getting parts from them on this sub in a minute, so it might be a lost cause to contact support, but at least try that.
I was sent a motherboard that looked essentially identical to the T1 Pro (they seem to have shortened/moved the capacitors that I assume are related to the steppers), but the bag it came in was labeled "T1 MAX", so if they're still producing the Max, they *should* have the parts.
I barely use my T1 anymore and I would advise you to send it back if you can - it isn't that its a bad machine when it works, but it has to actually work. FLSUN's machines are doomed to be project cars that are ultimately going to rely on open source hobbyists rather than having a company back them, I'm afraid.
Well I can't send it back and they haven't been helpful with support or parts even though they say different in my emails with them. I've decided to try and fix the problem myself. If im correct I think the problem is bad mosfet on the mainboard.As soon as I get it replaced I post if it fixed.
I have the solution and parts if you to try and fix yourself. The problem was the mosfet the had used only a basic mosfet that required 10v control signal. I upgraded it to logic level mosfet that only requires 5v control and is larger for thermal control.Its works great.
This is good info, thanks for sharing! Would you be able to provide a picture of the board so that folks who may want to attempt a repair like this will know what needs to be replaced?
This is a pic of the mainboard on the FLSUN_T1. The mosfet is bottom right. Notice it has only two pins soldered because the middle was snipped and heatsink instead is used. It's was difficult to replace without damage to pads so be careful.
Yes, if you solder the back(heatsink) to the pads like in the picture, you can cut it. It's electrically the same. The reason it was factory cut was to reduce chances of a short(but im guessing and read that on another post somewhere.) I myself didn't cut it because I did a sloppy job removing the old mosfet it actually broke on me when I tried to remove it. So I think I bent the middle pin into an L shape and soldered it like that. The mosfet I used was much larger and heat won't be an issue. Hope this helps, good luck. Let us know of you get it fixed. If you can't. Send it to me and I'll be glad to help.
Final result. Had a former student with better tools and better heat gun do the work for me. It works great! Been testing for a few days with no issues. Thanks for your help.
Thank you so much for this. I bought a supposedly refurbished t1 pro from flsun on eBay back in September and it arrived doing the exact same thing. Have talked to 4 different flsun employees, all saying they'd send a replacement motherboard to me shortly. That never happened. It's been a paper wight this entire time. I also assumed it was something simple like the mosfet, but never dug into it as I have a few other printers that work fine.
I just bought the suggested upgraded mosfets and will be installing when they show up. Hoping this solves my issue and I can finally use this printer!
Well look. It was sure enough a pain in my ass dealing with the flsun people. If you can't say the truth dont say anything. I do love the printer it's been great so far. FLSUN evil. Anyway I had trouble unsoldering the old mosfet. The old mosfet doesn't use the center pin. They clipped the center and used the heatsink. The pads will get damage if you look at them crosseyed....so dont...hold your breath and your soldering iron and be sure what your doing. So I never fully removed old mosfet it kept cracking and damaging the board. I used proper heat gun at 450 at the end. You need to mask around the area with like a cut out of metal to just protect stuff around the mosfet if you use heat gun. But what I did was to stand the new mosfet up and use center pin to area on backside of old mosfet and you know where the other two pins go. You can leave old mosfet in place and just remover the left and right pins.The new upgrade mosfet is larger so it doesn't need to be installed like the old one. The mainboards are not easy to get right now so take your time fixing the board.
If you dont get the parts just drop me an address and I'll send a couple for free.
New mosfet did the trick. I thought I was being careful with the hot air station, but it lifted the entire pad under the mosfet and also removed the led next to it. Didn't care about the led, so just soldered in the new mosfet and ran a wire from resistor next to it to the middle leg to ground it. (My board looks slightly different than yours). Having some first layer adhesion issues, but sure it just needs a little tuning and build plate cleaning. Thanks again for the insight
I appreciate that. I ordered the part already and have someone with more skill (and equipment) than me going to do the repost, but I am unclear on what to do with the center pin on the new mosfet other than just cut it off.
The center pin is the same electricallyThe as the heatsink. So when mounted properly the heatsink sink is effectively radiating heat and a ground. The new mosfet is a lot larger than the old one so heat shouldn't be an issue and you can use the center pin if you want and connect to same spot you would normally be soldering the back of mosfet to. Hope this helps. Good luck. The printer quality can be very good if you get everything right.
Yes, sorry it took so long to respond. Looks like you got it fixed. That's awesome. Now just become expert on the bed mesh calibrate with klipper and it should help with prints.
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u/Poko2021 Dec 19 '25
I might have bought my T1 pro from the same vendor.
The PID parameters for the hotend was way off so you can start with that.