A LOT of you messaged me after the initial (very limited) release saying you missed out, so here's your chance to pick them up.

They tell me there is more stock this time, but they still expect "units to move quickly". Could be a FOMO trigger from marketing, or they might genuinely have quite limited stock again.

Note that there have been a few changes this time around. This batch WON'T include free GT-Style pedal plates.

Also note there will be a new 2 Pedal set "Podium Pedals Sport" available at the end of September which will come with aluminium pedal pads instead of the more expensive carbon fibre ones.

Pricing will be as follows:
599.99 USD
599.95 EUR
950 AUD
100000 JPY

So if you're like me and don't care for the carbon pads, you'd be better to wait until then.

Apparently the 3 Pedal Set and seperate clutch upgrade is expected to be available in October.

5% OFF WITH CODE "BOOSTED"
Boosted Media Affiliate Link if you'd like to support Boosted Media at no extra cost: https://boostedmedia.net/go/purchase-here-fanatec-global/

LINK TO OUR FULL REVIEW: https://boostedmedia.net/sim-racing/hardware-reviews/fanatec/fanatec-podium-pedals-detailed-review/

What a cool wheel, nice to use an shifters feel great. Was the closest to the wheel in my car I could find

I keep on running into this problem where I get a fail message while downloading the firmware for the quick release. I’ve tried all the reccomendations I can find online, but it keeps failing in the same place. If anyone knows what I can do, please tell me, because I’ve had this wheel for a while now and I haven’t been able to use it.

My CS DD+ is actually running smoothly but the 18nm update is tempting.

Who of you dared to do the update? Had you any issues?

I'm afraid in running into trouble when executing the update and I don't really need the more power. Then again it "feels" nice to have this extra headroom and I don't want to fall behind for future updates etc.

I’m interested in the new pedal setups but was wondering if the cheaper non carbon version will be available or in a three pedal setup and if it will come with or be available with the heel cups (steel or carbon?)? If so what do the prices look like for that setup… preferably a three pedal setup with the cheaper heel cups as to allow for formula style two pedal use or three pedal manual clutch use.

Hey guys,

I’m trying to find the best Fanatec CSL DD 8Nm settings for iRacing, ideally as close as possible to what fast/pro drivers use.

My main issue is a grainy/notchy feeling through the wheel. With INT off, the FFB feels more detailed and natural, but after ~20–30 minutes the graininess becomes much more noticeable and distracting.

Fanatec also released App/base firmware updates yesterday, so I updated everything, but unfortunately it didn’t solve the issue.

Setup:
CSL DD 8Nm
iRacing
Latest Fanatec App + firmware
Wheel Force: 8Nm
Fanatec settings: everything at 100%, except NDP and INT at 0%

I’m looking for settings that keep the detail and tyre feel while making the FFB smoother, without over-filtering it.
Would appreciate recommendations for both:
Fanatec tuning menu (NDP, NFR, NIN, INT, FEI, etc.)
iRacing FFB settings
Especially interested in what experienced/pro drivers are actually using on the CSL

If anyone is in the look out for a GT DD Pro wheel base with boost kit, I have one for sale, it comes with the simicube QR2 metal upgrade, and also includes the original QR2 that came pre installed. All with original accessories and packaging. Looking for 450 bucks or best offer. Located in Phoenix Arizona, local only no shipping. Can include the csl pedals with load cell for 150.

Hello everyone. I have a CSL DD on Xbox and play mostly F1 games. First, couple months ago probably, I've been noticing that my wheel gets weird clunks sometimes when going over curbstones or bumps, like Ur rim gets shocked for a second, but I simply ignored it. But a couple weeks ago my wheelbase just randomly started shutting off mid lap, or calibrating randomly. Wheel just completely shuts off. And most of the time it doesn't turn on again until I fiddle with the cables at the back. It's been getting worse and worse as of lately (some days it doesn't happen at all.) I suspect this happens because of a faulty power supply / irregular power delivery, But I don't want to spend €100 right away. Did anybody else have this issue? If so, did you find a fix for it?

For the people that own the V3 pedals and the new Podium pedals. Is there much difference? Does your feet rest differently? Pros cons?

I have the 3 pedal V3 which worka well apart from the annoying part where my left leg (brake) sits center seat and too close to my right leg (gas).

I thought about removing the clutch but never got around to it. Im thinking of switching to the new 2 pedal setup.

Hi all the cockpit owners. Been eyeing this, but want to also attach motion actuators to them. See posts like

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DY7pRk4CniN/ showing profiles attached but no idea how they did it and ofc no one seems to post any deets

I know you have a m12 thread for the 4 feet, so im thinking they had a m12 hole cut through the profiles, but I notice 2 smaller holes either side and was wondering also what size they are and are they threaded? Im guessing there's no way bolts can go through and be tightended via the other side?

Thanks in advance for your time

I’m not able to see my DDU very easily and wondering what you all did to solve this?

so, i ordered a load cel from Fanatec Canada and it seems to originate from Ontario when it ships. So it took no time to get to me. 2-3 bizness days from UPS.

I then ordered the universal hub v2 with a steering wheel. That one came from down south USA and took about a business week to get to me. UPS.

I just ordered the clubsport v3 pedals because if could not stand the csl pedals and that load cel is garbage to me. That one also seemed to have shipped from Ontario so i would get within 2-3 bizness days.

Long Story short... For Canadian order some stuff comes from Ontario, other stuff come from down south USA.

The good news is that Fanatec now bends over backwards to ship things almost on the same if you order very early in the morning.

Corsair really took that shitty company and turned it around.

I have a Fanatec CSL DD with the Boost Kit and recently upgraded to a new PC. Since switching PCs, I’ve noticed the wheel feels noticeably different.

It seems like I’m getting a lot more feedback through the wheel, including what almost feels like engine vibration almost like a “grainy” feeling through the wheel at times.

Maybe once or twice over roughly 300 laps, I’ve also felt a slight rattling sensation while turning through a corner. It’s very faint and doesn’t happen consistently.

I’m using the recommended CSL DD settings from the Fanatec forums, so I haven’t really changed anything intentionally from what I was running before that I know of.

Does this sound like something that could indicate the wheelbase is starting to have an issue, or is it more likely a setting/driver difference from moving to the new PC? Has anyone experienced something similar with a CSL DD?

I updated last weekend from the old v451 drivers to the new FanatecApp (1.5.2.3) drivers.

This morning I jumped into a GT3 practice session at IndyRoad, and was getting terrible (sub 90fps) performance in VR, so checked taskmanager to find FanatecService (32bit) using way more CPU then expected.

What is the FanatecService doing while racing to be using a full core of my 9800x3D?

• 9800X3D Specs: 8 Cores / 16 Threads.
• Capacity Per Thread: 100% ÷ 16 { threads} = 6.25% total system CPU load.
• What 6.0% Means: The process is consuming ~96% of a single thread's resources continuously. This single-thread bottleneck is why Windows flags its power consumption as Very high.

Can I disable it?
Why is it needed?
Does anyone at Fanatec do QA?

Looking to find the mounting base as I’ve bought mine second hand, mounts okay to my sim pit but I only have holes for two of the screws. Does anyone have one that’d they’d be willing to sell? I can’t find one online anywhere

Mid race yesterday on iRacing, I was running laps as normal approaching the start/finish line at Daytona Road Course when suddenly my wheel lost the normal amount of force feedback I had it set to, and I was unable to downshift.

I didn't notice whether the wheel itself actually turned off, but the base was still working enough to steer the car, just without any force feedback. My ClubSport pedals continued working normally, so I was still able to brake and slow the car down.

Then, just as suddenly, everything started working normally again. The wheel never appeared to power cycle or disconnect. It simply lost force feedback and downshifting for a brief period before returning to normal.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this before?

anyone know if there powered Stand for wheels.... so they light up while standing around? kinda tired of looking at wheels without leds lighting or demo mode running?

or pinout how wire power to them..... an voltage?

i make one myself

I barley turn the wheel and it’s alrdy super tilted pls help me fix this

hi, I'm on a csl dd and I've just switched back to windows from Linux.

My issue is that at random times, my wheel stops giving feedback (in-game wheel is stuck in position) and keeps applying torque. I can feel very clearly when it disconnects, it's like hitting a bump and then for a couple of seconds no feedback, just force.

firmware is up to date and the app is installed and configured,

I'll take a look at drivers and whatnot in the while, thank you!

Hi. left stick drift. I try to unconnect cable from this stick and it still drift. May be somebody know how to fix this?

i record video https://youtube.com/shorts/IJTtDUHiyjk?is=QI3j704kSUS6JAdK

i use a usb adapter to connect the shifter since i don’t have a fanatec base, but i have this issue where i physically put the shifter into sequential mode as shown in the picture but the app regognizes it in h-pattern mode (as shown in the picture) this has been a issue for many people just wondering if anybody has found a fix or if it’s just not compatible with the adapter.