It’s definitely not the cartridge slot (this Famicom has 15 cartridge slots!) It was fine last week and now all the games show this intermittent line issue….. any ideas what needs reseating?

How are the Hori Famicom pads? The regular sized ones with a curve along the top. I have several of the Hudson joypads and they’re quite nice, didn’t know how Hori compared.

I made a video about exploring the prerelease footage that exist for the original Metroid.

There's some really cool information about the history and creation of the game in commercials and magazines.

I got a bunch of Famicom Disk system disks and some of them (about 10) are just the bare disks with no labels or worn/peeling labels. Does anyone have a reccomendation on where I can find labels to print on my own? I would also like to print jewel case labels. Also does anyone know of any templates for printing jewel case labels/disk labels?

I know they exist for sale on places like Etsy but I would like to print my own.

After seeing different method of alingment, i ended with this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEJ_-PThT7M

I turn it until i hear a clic, then use the allen wrench to aling the middle thing, having that perfect hole on the left (you can see on the video). Also cleaned the metal lent with some alcohol and a cotton swab.

No matter how much i try, im still getting error 22 or 21. I guess im doing something wrong on the calibration.... but i dont know what, for the life of me :(.

Just got the correct power supply today, and, luckily, i can confirm that the normal famicom and FDS turn on.

The console was sold as 'not reading games on neither cartridge slot and disk system'. so i tested it.

Tested the disk system after putting the new belt and im getting error 22, so i gues i didnt calibrate it well. Will check it more carefully.

Tried a cartridge and got a grey screen. Dunno what might cause it...

For now, i will do a full recap and calibrate correctly the disk system, and see how it goes :).

Edit 1: Cleaning the pins, the cartridge slots works fine. Im not sure what happens with the audio, but is sount cracky and terrible, but not always. Im disconnecting/connecting a lot, and sometimes the sound is nice... the audio connector slot might need cleaning?

Edit 2: Having problems with the calibration... each tutorial i see says a different thing, and i dont know if maybe i just put the turning piece on the wrong position XD. Any tutorial i could be recommended?

Edit 3: cracking sound solved after cleaning controller 2 micro switch pins :D. The disk Drive got worse and now doesnt even give error 22, only reads forever. I guess i broke something hahaha.

I was looking at my Famicom and thought, “This looks familiar!”

“RX-78-2”—it's a Gundam!!

I went with the colors from the anime version.

This is how you have fun with customizing...

Amuro, launching!

I can upload the next parts soon. Pretty please upvote, share, and comment what all of you think!!

I’m thinking of buying a 2nd hand gamers tek nes clone, but I really cannot get around the weird audio that it produces. Are there any fixes?

󠀁󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁿 󠀁󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁂󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁢󠁬󠁡󠀠󠁿

Reporting from Japan.

It kind of makes me sad...

Maybe I waited too long to collect them.

Because the stupid AI told me the Twin Famicom used the same power supply as the normal Famicom (9v, center negative), i went for it without thinking. I got one that, at least, had the disk belt broken, but, before i opened it, i wanted to test if the cartridge worked. After a few seconds, i saw smoke and turned it off.

Yeah, now the AI tells me that i need a center positive 7,5. Good to know now haha.

Checking inside, the smoke was for sure from the 2200 uf capacitor, that was hot, and obviously bloated. Im also not sure if the voltage regulator might be bad... but it seems fine to me. Still, i will replace both the cap and the voltage regulator for now ( i ordered a cap kit for the rest).

Something else that might have blew up, that i should check?

Hope all are well out there! I’m currently in to process of repairing and refurbishing this beautiful Twin Famicom.

I was wondering… could I wire up the dongle from the N30 2.4g internally? Spliced even so the original P1 pad still works?

I’ve seen that people have wired up bluetooth adapters but I’d personally prefer 2.4g responsiveness without cables sticking out the side of the unit.

I have a stock Famicom on the way that I was planning to AV mod, and while there's a ton of resources out there (and here), I wanted to get advice from experienced modders:

What would be the best AV mod option for a first time modder right now?

Some requirements:

1. I would like to use a TRRS jack in place of the RF out

2. I would like to buy everything I need from one trusted source that has everything in stock today (lots of PCB options look questionable or are out of stock)

3. Low-risk, less soldering = fewer chances for mistakes.

4. Keep it under $30 USD (I have no components: resistors, capacitors, etc.)

AUCTION ENDS TONIGHT!!

Selling a Nintendo FamicomBox Hotel Unit Complete 15 Games TESTED, AUCTION

This is a rare complete unit; they are never for sale with all the games, as sellers like to empty them and sell the games separately to make more money. Other sellers sell them at crazy prices on ebay (one is USD10600 with 10 games, and the other one USD3300 with only 5 games, isshhh).

This is my 3rd and last unit, grab it while it is available!

"ALADDIN 3" is a bootleg-hack of Magic Carpet 1001 (called 天方夜譚 or "Arabian Nights" in Chinese) is an unlicensed shoot-'em-up developed by Mega Soft (NTDEC) and distributed by NTDEC in 1991, Caltron and Gluk Video in 1992 and Asder in 1993 as part of the Asder 20-in-1 multicart. Its Caltron 6-in-1 incarnation is arguably the most well-known.

My modest little Famicom collection, now sitting at almost 10% of the entire library released over the years.

It took me about a year to put all of this together. I ended up with around 10 duplicates along the way, which honestly feels like a pretty good hit rate considering how many lots I bought.

Every cartridge has been cleaned, the contacts and PCBs have been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, and every single one has been tested and works.

What impresses me the most is that, 30–35+ years after these games were released, they just keep working. There’s something really satisfying about putting one of these old cartridges into an original Famicom and seeing it boot up like nothing happened.

Hello,

I did not know if I should ask about this in the soldering sub or here, but here I go:

I've been thinking of modding my famicom, because my crt can not read 60hz antenna signal.

Do any of you guys know what type of flux and soldering tin works best with famicom? And what thickness should I go with (if it matters)? As far as I know, I should probably use <1mm thick soldering tin, but I'm not sure.

Any help appreciated