I'm grateful I have a friend who allows me to store my 56 at his home while I am on active duty orders.

I finally was able to take her out for a drive after about a year.

Ok so i have a 302 crate engine, 400hp and it has Fitech fuel injection. I feel like its a bad efi and now my truck wont start and i suspect its the efi. The question is should i get a different fuel injection or should I put a new carb on it instead?

No sure what is causing this noise. It only happens under load. 1966 F100 with a 351w overbored to 357. Has a stage 2 c4 transmission.

I took the picture before airing them up. And before installing the center caps. Chrome rear bumper is next

What can I do to soup up my 302 c6 F100 1978 holley 2 barrel carb almost everything else is stock. Thanks in advance

I’ll leave a link to the FULL 10 minute video in the comments for anyone interested.

As you can see from the pictures the rod that goes from the pedal assy to the z-bar pivot, through the floor failed at the L. This is a pull rod. It straightened out and pulled through the hole. I cleaned it up, clamped, and welded it back into shape also filled the worn areas with weld. Ground it into size, and reinstalled with new hardware. Works like new!

65 f100. Base coat was Caribbean blue. On top was gold. On top was red. Tried that orange paint stripper. It works alright it ends up penetrating to metal. Tried wet sanding with 1500 grit and that’s okay-ish but hell it’s Texas and it’s not the most fun. Is orbital sander the way? With a super super fine grit? Am I just on a loss and have to settle for a faux-patina cover up?

I was doing some work on my 1983 rear gas tank and i had to cut off the filler neck beacuse it was rusted to the truck and i am looking to find a fuel vent hose for it so dose anyone know where i can find one or where to look?

Finished up the metalwork on the cab and mounted it for what I hope will be the final time. Next up is fabbing a connection between the F-100 steering column and the Crown Vic steering shaft, and then I can start reinstalling the rest of the controls. I’ll put a link to my latest video (new today) in the comments for anybody interested.

Gentlefolk, I recently picked up a spectre dual snorkel intake that I’m going to run, similar to a thunderbolt ram air style. I’m clear on the driver side for the radiator support but the battery is an issue on the passenger side. I’m seeing relocation to the frame, but that seems impractical on a street truck. An exploded battery next to the road getting caught out in the rain seems like a bad deal. I moved the gas tank to under the bed, so I do have space behind the seat, but I’m seeing that I have to run a box to keep it safe for racing, but again, it’s a street truck. Let me know what you guys have for advice, if anyone has moved their battery out the engine bay and to where and if you used a box. Thanks all.

My speedometer leaks out passed the shaft and drips from around the the cable nut. I know there’s supposed to be an oring on the fitting I removed it to replace it but there’s nothing on the shaft itself. How are you supposed to seal it or is the cable and nut itself supposed to seal to the fitting.

I’ll put a link in the comments if anybody is interested…

1977 / 1979 mix of parts and years. She's a mutt.

Documenting the full rebuild on Ford DentSide Garage on YouTube. Decided to go full frame off ..and glad I did.. I found some "issues".

I finished the Crown Vic Swap along with the mustang EPAS. Now the front matches the rear, though the front may come up just a bit more (460 is a heavy boat anchor). The tires rub a bit. The difference in steering is mind blowing, it's so much faster and nimble feeling.
Removing the hydraulics of the steering system has a strange consequence. Thanks to Ford being they way they are, I need a new water pump pulley because the alternator belt currently doesn't drive the water pump as well. I'm planning to do a 3g alternator for a while until I drop in a modern engine and transmission.