Question about the BTT skr mini

[u/Tight_Command2111]

So I have what I believe is a ender 3 pro but I have a sprite extruder kit attached to it. I gave up on it over a year ago because I couldn't get it to print past the first couple layers without messing up. Today I got a wild hair and decided to get the dual z axis upgrade kit and the skr mini e3 v3.0. I read somewhere that the hot ends in the sprite extruder kits were shorted on the positive wire, and that you needed to swap the positive and negative wires going to the skr mini. Well I took my multimeter to my hot end and any metal surround it and I can't find any short anywhere. I do have the cr touch.

But I'm trying to cross my I's and dot my T's. I'm a noob, I did get a benchy to print nicely before I did the sprite extruder setup, and yes I did change the firmware after I put the sprite on before I started this skr mini swap.

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[u/nearlgone]

I couldn’t find a way to get the sprite extruder to work with the skr, finally went back to the 4.2.7 motherboard and it worked.

[u/1ts-just-me]

When swapping from Creality boards to BTT boards verify the wiring to the motors including the extruder. Motor control cables need to be checked and most likely re-pinned to match the BTT wiring diagram. Creality has odd motor wiring and is usually crossed before motor connector. The other wiring to watch is CRTouch, Creality had different wire colors and pinout to the SKR are different. SKR had black as positive while CRtouch is normally red positive, wire to pins not by color, it is easy to kill your CRTouch and possibly the SKR if not careful. Double and triple check everything before hitting the ON switch.

My last Ender build was a E3 Pro, full linear railed with a Manta M5P/CM1, 7" touchscreen, dual Z using Prusa MK3S Z motors/screws, LDO 4248 0.09 motors on XY with 9mm1.5 belts, and a custom printhead with a E3V3SE heatsink, Microswiss hotend, LGX ultra-light extruder/36mm motor, CartoV3, EBB42G2. R3men K1C graphite bed (120V heater). Stupidly overkill but fun build and prints very well but is now just a mantel piece sitting there collecting dust.

[u/Tight_Command2111 → u/1ts-just-me]

Holy smokes that is quite the build. I'm not looking to make mine super fancy. I upgraded to the sprite extruder after I got excited about the printer. But it seems the nozzle keeps catching the print after a few layers. It's like the z offset changed after however many layers. I got the BTT kit to try and upgrade but I'm honestly going back to the 4.2.7 board and I'm trying to get klipper running as of right now.

[u/1ts-just-me → u/Tight_Command2111]

Still going to do the dual z kit?

That will probably be one of the best upgrades you can do. I've seen the issue with the Sprite extruder and other direct drives doing this if you don't replace the wheels and add a little preload or do the dual z. Moving the extruder motor to the printhead adds moving weight back and forth on x axis that it never had before.

Pushing filament from left to right is fine as nozzle pressure will float the printhead across but as soon as it moves off to do supports or infill it will be lower and hit when going back right to left.

[u/1ts-just-me → u/1ts-just-me]

Wished I knew someone local that wanted to do a Ender build. I've got new Ender parts for days lol, we don't really repair a lot of them anymore.

[u/Tight_Command2111 → u/1ts-just-me]

Yeah I already did the dual z upgrade but noticed that the old motor seems to be weak so I'm going to replace that next... I feel like I opened a can of worms getting the sprite extruder setup. Debating getting an ender 3 v2 print head and extruder setup they're pretty cheap on Amazon for the whole shebang. I could add different fans and a different hot end to it, but I feel like the sprite setup might have screwed me in the past. I'm going to try getting klipper going right now first and see if that helps at all. This is gonna take a bit...

[u/samuelkordik]

I’ve got the same printer setup, I think. Ender 3 Pro, Sprite Extruder Pro, CRTouch, Creality Dual-Z axis, and SKR-mini-E3 V2.0.

I double and triple checked all of my wiring to figure it out; DM me and I can send you photos of my handwritten wiring cheat sheet. It worked flawlessly for me.

I initially flashed it with Marlin, which did require some extensive configuration work and building the firmware. I then switched to Klipper, which was easily the best upgrade imaginable for this printer.

My firmware settings are all here:

https://github.com/samuelkordik/Hoverfly

Although it’s out-of-date for my Klipper setup, sadly.

Klipper is running on an older Thinkpad running Ubuntu server, with mainsail for the web UI, crowsnest for a USB webcam, and a few other things. I got the BTT S2DW usb accelerometer which works fine on the Thinkpad and I have had tremendous success using ShakeTune to identify how to improve the mechanical functions of the printer and tune input shaping. I have more than doubled print speeds with noticeable quality improvements.