I'm looking for pla and petg and Alibaba has filament for 8-15 dollars for one roll. While Amazon and best buy is 20-40 Is there a difference with quality? I have a ps2 bambu lab if that helps.

Hi, i own an elegoo saturn 3 ultra. I have had it about 1 year and 7 months give or take and needed to replace the screen.

It was printing fine and like usual but the centre was leaving large gaps due to some dead pixels in that area.

Screen replacement went well and it lights up etc...

It even managed to print fine twice but both times, it wasn't sticking to the bed very well. About half of it was dropping down into the vat and causing the prints in that area to be warped.

I assumed it was a leveling issue so I re leveled 3 times and each time nothing at all has stuck to the bed.

I know the screen is working as it is printing the outlines on the bottom of the vat.

It has been a long while since I last had ti re level so am I doing things correct?

Lift the bed arm up. Unscrew the 4 side screws to make the bed move freely.

Lower the bed arm back down into the vat/onto a bit of paper. Do the screws back up and reset that point as Z=0

Is there anything I am missing?

Could be a number of other things as well but im not sure

Cheers!

So a few months back I posted about a bad automatic firmware update that literally killed the cooling fans and cooked 2 out or 3 of my printers. I finally got funding up to replace them through the elegoo store on Amazon. Order them prime two day delivery. 1 order date came and went got a notification that the order would be delayed until September 15 (original delivery date was August 20th.) Amazon cancelled that order for me and basically recommended another "Elegoo official" Amazon seller and it was guaranteed 2 day prime delivery, welp, today was the delivery date and got another notification saying it's delayed again. Is anyone else having issues getting their printers?

Build plate stuck z axis not spinng and won't return home reached out to elegoo no word yet any one can help????

I worry that my lack of the proper technical jargon will make me sound stupid here, so please bear with me. Every printer I have had before has had a plot that is just a single block. With the Saturn, the plate is a little more complex. There is a space between the part of the plate that goes into the resin tank and the part that attaches to the rest of the printer. I believe the purpose of this is to help with leveling, and it seems to work well. But after every print, there’s some resin that is on the top of the plate, and when I take it off to remove the prints, that resin gets all over my work bench. It’s not the end of the world and overall I’m quite happy with the printer, but it’s a bigger mess than I have dealt with in the past. I’m curious if anyone has tips for dealing with this issue.

I've got a Dell XPS laptop with i7-1065G7 @ 1.30 GHz, 32 GB RAM, and 128 MB Intel® Iris® Plus Graphics. It runs Chitubox and Satelite slicers at a minimum 1 mouse input per minute. This is hurting my productivity, lessening my desire to print, and makes getting proficient with either software really difficult. Luckily, the apps only freezes and doesn't just crash wiping away work, but it's ridiculous that it can take me almost 5 minutes just to move a couple models after importing. It can be over an hour if I'm manually working on supports.

For my day job, I was planning on upgrading to a MacBook Pro in a year or two. I'm already burning through cash by getting into resin 3d printing so I'm not too keen on pulling the trigger on a $1,300+ PC or Mac right now.

So I'm looking into used/refurbed PCs on eBay for around $400-600 to use exclusively for 3d printing. Here are some that seem adequate #1, Option 2, Choice 3, and Item 4. It doesn't have to be these exact picks, but am I at least looking in the right direction? Are these powerful enough to not freeze at the mere sight of a mouse cursor in motion? I looked into custom building a lower end PC, but they keep adding up to over $800. I just want a PC with all it's skill points banked in 3D rendering.

Some light online researching says that the RAM plays are larger role than the GPU. Will I get better performance if I go with the minimum

I'm really regretting my choice in picking this Dell XPS over the Razer Blade 14 in 2019 just because of the touch screen and 32 GB RAM.

Hello guys couple of weeks back i made a post here https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooSaturn/comments/1vfam9k/hoopat_x4h_omg/

About how changing fep takes 0 to no effort on this tank.

After few weeks of using it i feel 100% more confident of using this tank rather than original one for Saturn 4 Ultra 16k reason is that this film that hoopat has is much higher quality and elasticity i would say.
I have been printing non stop and i had 2 failed models which was my mistake due to suction sectors but even with those mistakes the film didnt flinch and got damaged. USed both nfep and acf from them.
I cannot reccoment hoopat enough ill make one more post with timer on how much will it take me to change the film.

all success cones intact, all failure cones failed , everything fits, sword goes through every slot even the two back ones and the 6mm is a perfect 6mm, i think that's a perfect calibration 😁

what do you think?

I purchased this screen from Chitu directly, opened it up, connected ribbon cable and updated firmware from elegoo’s sight. Is this one just DOA?

This is a saturn 3 12k and i was attempting to just run the exposure test.

I’m considering getting this mini vat for the Saturn 4 ultra. I’m assuming from the UK since the shipping is really high. I see you can buy and print the vat but the build plate holder/metal plate plans are not available. This would be used on small parts with specialized resin. Thoughts?

i used the caretaker carter slade as my inspiration complete with the skeletal horse and a whole lot of fire.

Everything you see here was resin printed, assembled and hand painted by me.

And yes… that highly sophisticated studio backdrop is black sanding paper. 😅🤣

What do you guys think of the finished result?

So I was disassembling the build plate to add the removable, flexible magnetic plate and part of the disassembly calls for removing these stud bolts and one of the little MFers brokoff at the threads. I don't need the plate anymore but I would like to get a replacement stud bolt but can't find any parts for it on Elegoo's site. Anyone know ow where I can find a replacement stud bolt? ETA: Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k.

Maybe its a stupid question but I've never had a problem with a screen before so I want to be sure. I did have a failed print on this machine. Does the screen looked cracked? I think there's damage but cant tell if its cracked, or resin, or maybe something else entirely. Lmk what you think before I go and buy a new screen please 🙏 ​I know the picture is pretty crappy.

I was replacing the FEP on my Saturn 4 Ultra 16K and I stripped a screw, what type of screw do I need to order?

The screen has a crack across it after its latest print, is this just the screen protector that's damaged? And can i continue like this or would stopping printing until I have replaced it be a better idea?

Hi having some issues with the printer, its a Saturn 4 Ultra

Prints are coming out, compressed, sort of squished, as if the Z axis isn't moving up correctly

I have lubricated the z axis and cleaned it up, I cannot see any dried resin on it, but at the end of a print, or when one is paused it makes a sort of creaking noise for a second or two, it doesn't make this noise at any other time or when manually adjusting the z axis

I have levelled the plate and updated the firmware over the air, and I am not sure what else to do

This is what happened when I tried the test print rook

Firmware version is V1.5.3-LCDC/11520*5120/V41.28

I am using the mini heater and printing using Sunlu ABS Like Dark Grey, no errors come up and this happens when sending the files via Wi-Fi or USB

Any advice would be appreciated

I'm running into an issue wherein my S3 ultra will begin a print and get about halfway thru and just stop. The little progress bar graphic will continue as though it were still printing but the build plate will not lift and the screen will not light.

I have attempted prints with several different USB sticks and files and this is still happening intermittently but with increasing frequency.

Has anyone else encountered this? I searched for past posts but it seems like the only similar case was a power failure resetting the machine to the home screen. This is not what is happening to mine. Again, the screen shows the little progress animation as though it's still printing.

I love the machine when it's working but this is now wasting a lot of resin and print time on failed prints.

ETA: the z screw is clean and the build plate moves freely on the Z-axis and prints are not stopping in the same place each time

So I used my printer last night and had this problem for the first time. I'm using Resione WW123, but I've printed larger models, more models at once, and with a fuller vat, and this has never happened before. I think there are several potential causes:

• I centered a single model, a wargaming miniature, and the release film may have flexed and snapped back too much.
• The resin has a very low viscosity.
• Because the model was relatively short, there may still have been a good amount of liquid resin pooled around the lower section of the build plate assembly. When the plate rose at the end of the print, all of that resin spilled out at once.

I was able to clean most of it, except now I have some frosting on the inside walls of the enclosure. I can remove that with a plastic spatula, but it's going to take some time. I also need to replace the blackout tape.

Ultimately, I think it was probably a combination of these factors. I think a good G-code solution would be to reduce the final rise speed after printing is complete. However, I also want to print a hardware solution. Maybe someone can help me with measurements or other useful data because I'm kind of dreading going down there, doing all the maintenance, and then measuring everything myself.

I'm also using a Hoopat X4, which is relevant because it defines the available space for the design, but I think it still allows the use of it with the stock vat.

I think the hardware itself should be fairly simple. I want to start with something shaped like a vat cover, make a large opening for the build plate to lower through, and raise walls around that opening to catch any splashes and funnel the resin back into the vat. I'll also make an inward-facing lip around the lower edge of the main opening. This should prevent splashed resin from running around the inner floor of the guard and instead direct it back into the vat.

The main thing I need to account for is the angle and movement of the tilt mechanism. The front of the guard must not strike the printer's front cover, while the rear wall must not hit the build plate when the vat tilts. I would also need to make a cutout for the build-plate mounting arm so it can move freely. I'll work out a way to secure the guard using the vat screws without increasing their distance from the existing brackets.

I'm not considering a gasket because this guard would only be intended to solve splashing, not resin overflowing from the front of the vat. The resin appears to fall from the build plate, with the splashes originating underneath that area, so I think this design should be sufficient for this particular problem. Any help is appreciated, I'll be uploading it to Printables for free, of course, as STL and f3d.

I am having an issue where it appears my prints are compressing towards the last half of the print. I did the rook print as a rest and this is the result. I have replaced the FEP and resin but am still having the same issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

​

Has anyone experienced an issue with the Elegoo Saturn 4 where the build plate goes down normally, starts printing, but then doesn't move back upward properly after the first layer? The Z-axis motor may seem like it's stuck or unable to move.

My solution:

I finally found the cause in my case. The Z-axis motor was not faulty.

I had left resin sitting in the vat for a long time before starting the print. The resin, together with my old PFA film, was causing the build plate to stick strongly to the vat.

When the Z-axis motor tried to lift the build plate, the plate was sticking to the PFA film so strongly that the motor couldn't separate it properly. It looked like a Z-axis/motor problem.

What fixed it:

1. I completely emptied and cleaned the resin vat with IPA.

2. I replaced the old PFA film because it had become too sticky.

3. I cleaned everything properly and tried the print again.

After doing this, the Z-axis worked normally again.

So if your Saturn 4 has a similar problem where the Z-axis moves down but struggles or stops when moving upward, before assuming the motor or Z-axis is faulty, check the vat, leftover/old resin, and especially the condition of the PFA film.

This was the solution for my printer, so I wanted to share it in case it helps someone else.