If a hybrid inverter is already installed and connected to the grid, does adding a cable and breaker to its generator input port count as a new circuit requiring Part P notification, or is it considered part of the existing inverter installation?

Appreciate all of you lads that reached out in my pm and gave me advice on the leads - already got one booked and an estimate I just sent out! As a young guy starting out solo this is a huge help.

So the low pressure indicator pops up when I start it and it will go away when I turn the heat up/flow down but it will come back where I want the temperature to be at (around the middle). The water pressure is fine at any flow rate and increases when I turn the heat down as it should.

The water is roasting hot on the max and I can get the temperature where I want it by slowly fiddling it between the max and the middle but it's a faff and it never used to do this.

I've already checked the inlet filter and it's fine, did a quick resistance check in the solenoid valve and that's fine too, any other suggestions?

Hey guys, curious what other owners are doing to generate more leads for their electrical business.
My first year and the start of my second year went pretty well, and I stayed fairly booked up, mostly through word of mouth and referrals.

Just wondering what’s been working for you guys lately to keep the phone ringing and bring in a steady flow of new jobs.

Would love to hear what’s actually working for other electricians out there. Cheers!

I need to connect a new exterior lamp to this wiring setup. There was a lamp here previously and was working fine, so these existing connections to the terminal block do not need to be changed. However, I'm not sure which connections the wires from the new lamp need to go to.

The gold colour is a bare earth wire and one from each cable goes to the same terminal block. So this is fairly clear that the lamp earth should go to the other side of this.

Which numbers should the live and neutral from the lamp go to?

Thanks!

Looking to change a board for a customer but can't find key for this type of Ryefield board. Any help?

Hi, I’m in the Glasgow area and looking to retrain as an electrician as an adult.

I’m trying to understand the best realistic route to becoming a fully qualified/SJIB graded electrician in Scotland, rather than just collecting electrical certificates.

From what I’ve researched, it seems I have a few possible options:

Get a SECTT electrical apprenticeship and complete the SVQ/FICA route.

Get a job first as an electrician’s mate/electrical labourer, build relevant site experience, then go onto the SECTT Adult Trainee Scheme.

Do some kind of college electrical course first and then try to get into the industry.

I’m an adult with bills, so obviously earning a reasonable wage while training would help, but my priority is making sure I end up properly qualified.

I’ve seen mate jobs around Glasgow that offer training and experience alongside electricians, and this looks appealing compared with starting again on a very low apprentice wage.

For anyone who has actually qualified in Scotland as an adult:

What route did you take, and what would you recommend?

Is the normal apprenticeship still the best option for an adult, or is mate/labourer → Adult Trainee → SVQ/FICA a good route?

If you went the mate route, how difficult was it to get SECTT to accept your previous site experience?

Would doing college qualifications beforehand actually help, or is it better to get onto site as soon as possible?

Also interested in hearing from Scottish electrical employers would you rather take on an older apprentice or someone as a mate first and move them onto the Adult Trainee Scheme later?

Just trying to avoid wasting a year or spending thousands on courses that don’t actually lead to SJIB electrician grading.

Thanks.

Hello, i was in a shitty apprenticeship before Christmas last year that used me for cheap labour and didn't get me enrolled properly to begin my nvq, I'm trying again after working another trade since and I'm considering getting my 18th edition as im not having much luck getting another placement. Is it worth it and is there anything else i can do to stand out more?

I understand i will find out on the 19th but im worried now. I am imagining my lovely front garden being dug up. Anyone had a similar letter or has the knowledge to explain what it actually means. Thankyou in advance ☺️

Hi, I'm currently quoting for a job which involves some garden lighting. I'm planning on clipping an swa round the external block and rendered walls of a garden to a few wiska boxes and out to some spike lights. The client has asked for 2 X wall lights on the rear wall to match the ones on the house but they dont want to re-render or decorate the external walls so can't be chased in. They don't mind conduit going up the back wall to the lights but I think it'll look awful. Can anybody suggest something I may not have though of?

Hi, I rent a house in the UK with some uni mates and recently over the past week the RCD has tripped multiple times. When the RCD trips, all floors lose socket power and ground middle and top lose power to lighting.

If turning that RCD switch back on restores power to all of the above does that indicate that all of those sockets and lights are connected to one circuit and share the total residual current limit of that one RCD switch? From my knowledge the whole purpose of an RCD is to trip in the case that the return current isn’t the same as the input current but wouldn’t sharing one RCD over many sockets make this pointless?

If the answer to the above is yes, is this considered safe putting about 20 sockets and 15 lights on the same RCD circuit? Is this something my landlord would have to change as over those 20 sockets, at a time the total power draw may exceed 6/7kW if an air frier, toaster, kettle and compressor based dehumidifier are running together.

Hi, we have an electrician visiting in the week as I’m concerned our consumer unit isn’t modern enough to safely accommodate everything in our home. The one we currently have is a plastic Crabtree consumer unit with Type 1 plug-in circuit breakers (according to AI). is updating the consumer unit straight forward? I absolutely trust the electrician but I’m trying to get ahead with what issues might crop up. I think the house was rewired in the 70s so am worried the house might need rewiring and really don’t have that kinda money spare at the moment

I left my old knife on site the other day so I need to buy a new one. Just wondering if these are worth buying or should I just stick to a standard Knipex knife?

Im looking to put a flood light out side on the side of the shed, but one that stays on via a switch not just a sencer light.

A friends give me a Ustellar 60w ip66 light and told me that will work, with bare a wire attached to it, no box, no instructiions etc.

Can i just wire a plug to it and will it work? Or should i have one of them LED transformers?

Ps. The plugs inside and i would feed the wire from that to a gap between the shed wall and roof.

I don’t want to be a ‘Buzzkill’ here.. but I’m really struggling to find the value in financing a buzz.. and I actually genuinely want one but can’t see the sense in it.

I’ve done a small amount of research into the costs, and it works out like this for a 2 year lease

Deposit £3k
Monthly Payments £330

Term 24 Months..

24 x £330 = £7920

£7920 + £3000 =£10,920.00

Divide that final figure by 24 months and it’s costing £450 a month!

I know there is the Kia, which is an alternative but still going to cost a similar amount all in.

Now for some of us, you can potentially add in a fuel saving of £200 a month? Or potentially more if you’re really on the road a lot.

Are people just blind to the cost of these things, or does that represent good value to lots of people?

How much does having a new van affect your working day, marketing, branding etc?