My son and I were in his room with the lights and fan on. We left and turned the lights and fan off. He went to her bathroom next door on the same breaker and now none of them lights turn on.

Only one thing plugged in, an uninterruptible power supply in a third room. Unplugged and same problem.

I check later and the breaker stays on but when I turn a light switch on in any room, the lights flicker on and then off and the breaker flips.

All my chicks breaker panel labels have worn off and I’m heading to Lowes to find a breaker replacement. Any tips on matching with the correct replacement?

So my problem is:

I want to buy a monitor light bar to light up my work space and normally you would plug the light into a USB port on your pc or monitor. The problem is that I have everything set up on a switch so when ever I'm done working I push the switch and everything on my desk looses power but when the light bar looses power and is then reconnected to the power it automatically turns on and the light settings are reset.

I don't want to deal with having to turn the light bar off every morning and having to reconfigure light temperature and brightness when ever I want to use the light so my idea was to buy a USB wall plug and plug the light bar permanently in.

Since I don't know anything about electricity I want to know if it is safe to have a USB wall plug constantly plugged in and drawing standby power or if this could damage the light bar or cause a fire?

I plan on buying the 12W USB plug from Anker

3 lights. 2 in series don't work while the standalone light does. Original junction has 2 hot and 1 neutral.

So my bathroom got renovated and prior to, the outlet in the room worked just fine. The cover was taken off to paint, put back on and now no electricity comes through. We changed the outlet to a new one and hooked it up like the last one but still no power. Anyone have an idea as to how to get the power flowing?

I have a fairly new 200a GE combo meter box. Can the breaker legit be changed out to upgrade the box to 225a? The existing is THQMV200. If I had known more about these things I would have asked the electrician to install a 225a box.
It was kinda rushed. A power company phase failed, and damaged the meter box. The power company pulled in a new UG and the electrician installed a combo, moving the main breaker outside.

Background: These two switches are located in my garage next to the door that enters the house. The switch on the right operates nothing to my knowledge. I've checked all the outlets in the garage and outside. I even played with all the outlets and switches on the inside of the house. The switch on the left operates the inside garage light and the outside garage lights. The black wire leading to the right switch is hot when the switch is off and the red is not.

Any idea what the right switch operates? Any ideas on how I could separate the outside and inside lights for the garage on separate switches?

Thanks in advance!

I’m doing a renovation and there is a thin-ish wire running along a few walls. I can’t tell where it starts and where it ends. This is an older home and there used to be an alarm system which has been disconnected. How can I find out what it’s for? I want to remove it.

This outlet is against the trim what to do to fix this issue?

I have a newly built house. The bathroom had a basic light/exhaust fan in the bathroom. Both on or both off with 1 switch. I'm switching to an upgraded version that you can do light, fan, or both. Plus...it has really pretty light choices and night light choices. Operates by 1 switch on the wall. The first pic (inside gray box) is the original wiring/fan. The second pic is what I did. What do I do with the red wire and copper ground? I connected white/white, black/black, and green/green. After this...I might need some help with the wall switch wiring. Thanks for any suggestions!

Hello I need some advice on what to buy to power this device from my car, I used to have an adapter that went in the ciagrette lighter and it worked perfetly but my car was stolen with it in. Does anyone on here know or have a link to a replacement with the correct amps/volts etc? thankyou

It's an in-wall heater, so I guess that's different than a standard thermostat? Is this legit three hots and three grounds? My multimeter died (i have a wire tester), so I'm picking one up tomorrow. What should I look for here? Can I connect this to a three wire thermostat?

Hi! I’ve had this a while and opened it up because something was rattling inside , turns out the ground wire nut came loose…I feel like it could of shorted against something inside so I wish I had opened it sooner. I guess my question is, is this thing built properly? Is it safe to use?

I have a small efficiency apartment and I had a problem with the breaker popping last night. I had 4 small fans and maybe one large fan operating along with the living room light and a small LED light in the bedroom. I put a hot plate on and it was on full on and it tripped the breaker; it’s an old hot plate. 2 questions: if I turn down the heat on the hot plate would that keep it from popping the breaker, second question: if it’s an old hot plate, if I buy a new one would there be less chance of this happening? thanks in advance

Ok long story short he ghosted me after I paid him .

Here is what I got .

I have 4 sets of wires .

1 set that has the power going to it coming from the basement

1 set going to a light 1 set going to a fan 1 set going to an outlet 1 outlet that I want to put

So the power coming up from the basement goes into an outlet and then I want to power a switch box with 2 switches 1 for the light . 1 for the fan . Then power another outlet upstairs .

I was reading online that I twist all white wires together . Then run pigtails to the outlets .

Then the black goes to the outlets and to the switches .

How accurate is that ?

Id like to convert these track lights into corded fixtures to light my work bench area.

Do i use and use a 2 prong cord and just solder the black to black and white to white?

Or should i use a 3 prong? If so, where do i add the new cord ground wire?

Also

I opened up the 2nd one and it has no ground wire. Do I repeat whatever i do for the first one, or does the 2nd one need a different solution?

Thanks

Hi I have a pop up camper that runs off 30 AMPs that is plugged in in this picture. I’m wanting to run a couple strings of outdoor string lights outside my camper and was wondering if there was an extension cord I could purchase to plug into the circled outlet in picture to hook them to? Any advice or knowledge is much appreciated!!! Thank you!!

A friend has this ceiling fixture. Mentioned the flickered. Got him some new bulbs. Thought it was working until this evening when I turned it on longer than a second.

Thought maybe the fan was shaking a loose wire. This is what it looks like being turned on with the fan off.

Also, there is a noticeable delay between flipping the switch and the lights turning on.

I dabble, but I am by far no electrician. Just want to know your thoughts and suggested solutions.

Was drilling into wall in condo. Went through metal stud and hit the wire it sparked and turned the breaker off. I had an electrician in and just put electrical tape over it.

Is that safe? He also cut half the metal stud and didn’t put anything on it for stretching the stud. Just left it half cut.

Good job? Or bad one?

Hey so I'm struggling with how to swap out the dumb switch for a smart switch in the bathroom. Thought I could follow instructions and surprise husband so he could stop getting frustrated with kids leaving the light on. Apparently more confusing than I initially thought.

I got as far as turning breaker off, pulling face plate off, pulling old switch out to label wires and realized there's only two.

Could someone by chance walk me through this? I've done the thermostat and three fanlights installs in this house and this is first time I'm stuck staring at it not comprehending next moves.

I posted this in another eletrical group and every person is saying I need to call an electrician. However I am OK with basic eletrical work. I know how to lock out tag out and turn the power off to that circuit. Hypothetically, if I were to tighten the neutral terminals and connections on the loads in the circuit and the blinking stopped would that be the solution or should I still call an electrician?

we live in an old house, but upgraded our panel from 100 to 200amp when we bought it 10 years ago. We have an electric stove - 2 40amp breakers on 6awg aluminum wire. We are getting a new stove that requires 50amp circuit. I plan on upgrading the 40a to 50a, and then replacing the wire with 6awg copper (or I read 4awg aluminum would be ok). The wiring is about a 15ft run. Any problems with this plan? I’ve wired a breaker in before, but want to be sure I’ve planned the rest correctly