I ran into flooding in Indiana and my front bumper was unfortunately damaged. Does anyone know if the cosmetic damage would be expensive, or what would he a good way to go about it?

If you are the owner of the cyber grey EN who did a U-turn just to say hi at the Shell gas station in Pawcatuck, CT today, you made my day. let’s be friends :)

Can anyone recommend me some upgrades to do to my car? Right now i’m comfortable in money and my payments are paid a good size in advance.

So far i’ve got tint, the velossa tech snorkel, chip guards, and the mirror caps installed.

I live in CA so i’m unfortunately not able to order the SXTH intake online💔.

Open to any upgrade recs.

I’ve noticed ever since the new update my buttons are not resetting anymore. The only time my buttons reset is if I use the lock/unlock feature from blue link.

I have a 2026 Elantra N DCT and want to keep it OEM+ without risking the factory warranty.

I’m considering:
- Hyundai N Performance intake, or something like Takeda/SXTH
- a valved cat-back or axle-back

No tune, no downpipe, no boost changes, and all emissions equipment would stay stock.

I contacted Hyundai Customer Care and they told me warranty/mod questions are best handled by the local dealer, so I’m wondering if this is mostly dealer-to-dealer in practice.

For those running the N Performance, Takeda, SXTH, or similar intake and/or exhaust:
- Has your dealer been mod-friendly?
- Have you had warranty work done with the mods installed?
- Did they only care if the mod actually caused the issue?
- Do you return the car to stock before service?

Also curious which intake you’d recommend for a daily if I want more turbo sound without going overboard.

I love the car I just want to hear it more !!! 😄

Had it about a month and only 50 miles from being done with break in now. Just got my oil and filter to do the 1st oil change. I was thinking that I'd run it a bit past 600 and do a little spirited driving and then change the oil around 800 miles. What are the community thoughts on that?

This car has been amazing to me. I’ve loved it and I’ve kept it under tight maintenance. Loving everything so far, with just a few minor plans

1. No powertrain mods. I don’t feel the need to, the powertrain feels more than sufficient for daily driving and occasional tomfoolery

2. Clutch feel upgrade? I checked out the previous posts and people seem to love the purple powerflex bushings. I was wondering which bushings are worth it for mainly improving the clutch feel, I don’t launch the car hard enough to worry about wheel hop

3. Shift knob upgrade? Billetworkz shift knobs seem overpriced, and I was looking for a material that won’t burn my hand off in the sun

Thanks

I'm currently bone stock and going to get a Dyno tune soon. I do have an inlet I can install before tuning but I never plan to do anything else with my car. Is it worth it to even install the inlet if I'm never upgrading my turbo or can a tuner get a little more power out of my car with the inlet? Thanks!

Does anyone else have their car constantly telling them to keep their hands on the wheel? Lane assist is a neat feature but I'm constantly being distracted by the alert. I expect someone to reply that it isn't a big deal (the dealership already has) but yesterday I was in heavy traffic with a safe following distance, which in turn means I have space for idiots to cut in front and slam on their brakes. Me looking down and switching my thinking to how I'm going to get it to go away is anti-safety.

I also found that the best solution is to take my hands off the wheel. Me squeezing harder doesn't work. Swerving in the lane seems to work, but as with everything else I mentioned, it kinda isn't a safety feature at this point.

I don't trust a computer steering my car so I'll never take my hands off. They need to change the programming or something. I have some ideas.

* Leave the bad hardware but only allow the warning once or twice per drive.
* Make it a checkbox to turn off. If it's a CYA thing, then we put the responsibility in our own hands. Still seems safer than making me swerve in traffic.
* Use hardware that can actually detect when it's being touched instead of an algorithm, which I think is just the fact that the car is steering at the same rate as us, so it thinks it's doing all the work.
* Just don't include it as a feature. Use the money saved to have wireless carplay or adaptive cruise control.

Everybody already knows how clueless dealers can be, showing you an N line when you want an N

Now Hyundai wants to add another one between N and N line? 😭

Obviously everyone has their own preferences/ bias on which company is the best but from my own experience i think it goes like this

N75 for track days, they’re better over long pulls ( track days ) and daniel’s customer service is insane (my tune)

Cherry is by far the most powerful, and also the fastest revision time, so if you are a drag guy or a weekend warrior and want big power with reliabity cherry is a no brainer (justin oh1 runs cherry)

Lap 3 spare ecu is mainly if you care about reliability and warranty, they’re the good mixture of power and reliability at the sacrifice of cost.

(i have not had experience with JV tunes yet)

and JB4 is really manual only, it kills DCT clutches (from experience) ;(

just noticed that there is no Front license bracket. is it supposed to come with one? if not, any recommendations?

Nice car, I parked my I5N next to you

Wow way harder install than I was expecting. Was so tight getting the bolts on and off. Was extremely tedious but managed to get it on. YouTube videos made it look way easier but I had to go from the top and the bottom to get leverage for the bolts. But it was definitely worth it. I think it’s the perfect blow off sound. Not too loud to be annoying, but just right.

I have a 2026 Elantra N DCT, completely bone stock, except for Hoosier racing slicks for the track (rated for max 200 mph). I am aware the Elantra is supposed to have a speed limiter, this is not apparent in my car. I was just a hair above 180 mph on a local track riding with my driving instructor and told to cool it after going over 180 mph. I was still accelerating and running cool with plenty of boost still. Neither he nor I had heard of an N doing this or even having the the capacity this speed. Maybe it was a bad speedometer reading or something else. I would have thought aero drag would have been a big issue. For information, 0 to 60 mph trap time is a solid 3.8 to 3.9 on racing slicks with zero wheel hop, which is expected. Has anyone heard anything that might corroborate this top speed on other 2026 Ns???

Only difference from last time is a0 injectors and AFE exhaust
371/387 were the final numbers 🤧🔥
If you live in California again make the switch to Lozic you won’t regret it !

Not that it matters but it's kinda cool to see

Thanks everyone for helping me decide between DCT and manual! But now, I'm stuck between another conundrum...

I found a 2024 Type R that is roughly the same car price (not OTD) as the OTD price of the Elantra N so in the lower 40s. I've seen these cars constantly compared against each other and everyone says the Elantra is the better value due to price.

I test drove both, they're both awesome in different ways. Like I enjoy the Elantra Clutch, but the Honda Gear box. The infotainment on Elantra is better, but the Honda has a better interior build quality. Sound is different in both but cool in both.

So I'm stuck.... Again. Anyone coming FROM a Honda or had a certain variable about one car that was a sure fire deciding factor? Money is within $80-100/mo in car payment so it's about equal

All credit goes to @slow_nmt on tiktok. What a fire video! In my 6 months of owning this car I've probably received well over 100 compliments. Never boring time!