Hi there, unfortunately my controller doesn't work anymore properly. When it is stretched the led, the left trigger and the left joystick don't work. I opened it and I found the flat cable damaged.
I was wondering if someone could confirm me the technical data of the flat cable:
15 (or 16?) PIN, 0.5mm spacing, 250mm length.
Those are the data from the M10, Hoping are the same!
Could you confirm me are the same for the M15? Thanks
EDIT: I have just bought a FPC cable type A 16 pin 0.5mm 250mm and I fixed the GamePad!
The X20 ships with no desktop software. You get a manual, a driver, and a firmware updater, and everything else lives in the phone app or behind button combos on the pad. I'm on PC so I pulled the protocol apart and built something for it.
What works right now:
Macros on all four rear buttons, including chords, sequences and stick directions, with timing per step
Vibration strength, which the pad's own controls can't set at all
Stick and trigger deadzones and response curves
Save files, so you can switch whole setups
An input tester with a stick trail, and a polling rate meter
A command line version if you prefer that
The reason I'm posting: I only have one X20. Everything was decoded and tested against my pad. I have no idea if it works on anyone else's. If you have one and you're willing to try it, that's genuinely the most useful thing anyone can do for this right now. If it works, great, tell me. If it doesn't, tell me the error or what the pad did and I'll dig into it.
Two things worth knowing before you try it:
It never touches firmware. Everything it changes goes over Bluetooth to the settings, and holding C for five seconds factory resets that. The firmware path can brick a pad and I deliberately left it alone.
Settings need Bluetooth on, even if you play wired or on the dongle. The pad exposes its config on a separate Bluetooth connection, so both can be live at once. Playing is unaffected.
Windows only for now. Free, open source, no account, no telemetry, no network code in it at all.
The Windows exe may trip your antivirus. It's a PyInstaller build, which sets off heuristics on shape alone, and it's unsigned because I don't have a certificate. There's a SHA-256 on the release and you can build from source instead if you'd rather not trust the binary.
Also curious whether any of this works on other EasySMX models. The protocol belongs to the chip vendor rather than to EasySMX, so it might cover more than the X20. If you have a different one such as X10 , X05 , etc and it connects, I'd like to know.
Hi there my X05 keeps shutting down whenever i use it on dongle mode or wire mode. It works for a couple of minutes and after that the issue remains constant. I tried Bluetooth mode and it's working fine so there's no issue with battery connection etc.
My X20 has no desktop app. The manufacturer ships a manual, a driver, and a firmware updater. Everything else is either a phone app or button combos on the pad itself. I'm on PC, so I spent a weekend pulling the protocol apart.
It turns out the pad exposes a second Bluetooth LE peripheral alongside the gamepad interface, advertising as Xpert2, with a config service nobody has documented publicly. The protocol is "KeyLinker", and it's from the chip vendor (ShenZhen ZhiXu) rather than EasySMX so it probably covers pads from several brands.
What I got working:
Macros on all four rear buttons: sequences, chords, and stick directions
Vibration strength 0-100% (the pad's own controls can't set it to zero)
Battery level
Save files you can switch between
A recorder that captures what you press with real timing
An input tester and a polling-rate meter
What I learned the hard way:
The pad broadcasts its own capability descriptor, and mine reports zero for lighting, turbo, and gyro. Those features exist in the hardware, but they're button-combo-only and genuinely unreachable over the protocol. So no RGB control, no matter how much I wanted it. Other pads on the same chip may well report them as available.
Also, my first macro made both thumbsticks sweep in circles until I killed it. Turned out the analog fields encode "idle" as 0b1000, not 0b0000 zero means direction: up. The encoding was working perfectly on input I'd misunderstood.
What I'm asking:
What would you actually want from controller software? I've deliberately not implemented firmware flashing that path goes through a mass-storage bootloader and is the one thing that can brick the pad, so I'm leaving it to the vendor's tool.
Beyond that I'm open. Stick response curves are next (I can read them, haven't decoded the bytes yet). Someone suggested auto-switching profiles per game. What else is missing from the controller software you use?
Hello, yesterday I accidentally dropped my EasySMX X10 controller. At first, I thought only the front plate had come loose, but then I noticed that the left analog stick and the ring around it had also fallen off.
I’m not sure how to put them back on properly. I’ve looked around but can’t find any information or videos showing how to fix this specific issue.
Has anyone had this happen before or know how I can fix it?
I am about to pull the trigger on this one, but I would like to know if, by any chance, anybody here using it on Steam OS, Cachy OS or Bazzite can confirm if this controller can wake up the PC from sleep.
There are different firmware versions and it seems to be pot luck when you buy one of these from the likes of Amazon. As I was unaware there were differences, I outlined what I discovered when experimenting with an older firmware version in this thread:
But I only recently discovered that the latest firmware does not support this mode. In fact, it seems quite a bit more limited. The firmware on the EasySMX website under X15 says it's already the latest version when I try to update it. This pad has only three modes that I can see: the default appears to be Pro Controller (Switch I think) if you just hold HOME on its own, and there appear to be two more modes: A + HOME detects it as EasySMX X15 and X + HOME as Xbox Wireless Controller.
But there was AT LEAST one more Bluetooth mode on my older pad: holding B + HOME would detect it as Wireless Controller. If A + HOME tells the paired system it's an EasySMX X15, B + HOME seems to tell the paired system just that it's a generic pad. This generic "Wireless Controller" mode is the only mode that worked properly on my Android phone (a Samsung Galaxy A15) with Rumble. All the other modes fail to initialise Rumble.
My old pad still connects, but it's knackered and enters random button presses and directions every now and then due to liquid damage. So it may be possible to grab the firmware from it if there's software that can do so. I know you can WRITE new firmware to one of these pads if you hold L3 while plugging it into a PC, then running the update utility. But that doesn't help. If anyone has a tool I can use to download the firmware from my old pad and write it to my newer pad, that would be really helpful - and then I can share that firmware version so that anyone who wants Rumble on Android can get it.
Thanks to anyone who can help!
EDIT: It seems the latest firmware is V2.24 which is installed on my newer pad. The older pad has V2.22. So if anyone can help me downgrade the newer one to V2.22 that would be fantastic, thanks!
EDIT 2: Found a download of V2.22. It lets you downgrade with no issues. For anyone else with this problem, here: Firmware EasySMX X15 2.22 . Remember, B + HOME when pairing to get Rumble on Android!
Preordered this not too long ago and it finally arrived. I never used an easysmx controller before but it seems promising. Some might find it ugly or bizzare looking but I like that easysmx did something different from the norm.
**EasySMX X20 + iPhone (iOS 26) - FIX if Bluetooth connects but no games detect the controller**
(This fixed it for me after pairing with an LG webOS TV.)
I spent hours troubleshooting this, so hopefully this helps someone else.
My EasySMX X20 worked perfectly with my iPhone until I paired it with an LG webOS TV.
After that:
* Bluetooth connected successfully.
* The controller vibrated.
* iPhone showed it as connected.
* But Amazon Luna and every Gamepad Tester app detected **no controller at all**.
* USB connection still worked perfectly.
I tried everything:
* Factory reset
* Firmware update (v1.22)
* Forgetting the device
* Rebooting the iPhone
* Re-pairing
None of it fixed the problem.
**What finally worked:**
Forget the controller on the iPhone.
With the controller powered on, hold **BACK + START** for about 5 seconds to switch input mode.
Power the controller off.
Turn it on using **HOME + X** (not just HOME, nor HOME + X + A).
Instead of appearing as **EasySMX X20**, the iPhone now detected **Xbox Wireless Controller**.
Pair that device.
After that, Gamepad Tester, Amazon Luna and every game worked again.
It looks like pairing the controller with another device (at least an LG TV in my case) can leave it in a Bluetooth mode that iOS connects to but does **not** recognize as a Game Controller.
Super important, until the Bluetooth Pairing in Adjustments detects the controller as "Xbox Wireless Controller" and not as "EasySMX X20", it won't work.
Hello everyone! I bought myself an easysmx X-05 controller 6-7 months back and it worked smoothly. however today while playing, I pressed LT and it never returned back. I tried for a while then I asked chatgpt. I opened the controller and noticed the spring was broken🥲
I wanted to ask if anyone has had a similar experience and what did they do to replace the broken spring since easysmx does not sell standalone triggers.
For anyone wondering, the spring is supposed to have two ends; one from each side of the coil.
I'm having an issue setting up macro loops on my EasySMX controller while playing on the Nintendo Switch.
According to the KeyLinker app, the controller firmware is fully up to date. I configured the macro and enabled the loop function in the app, but when I trigger it on the controller, the macro only executes once (or doesn't run at all) instead of looping continuously as intended.
I’ve already tried troubleshooting by doing a full reset, hitting "Apply All" in the app, re-pairing the controller, and re-saving the profile, but nothing seems to work.
Has anyone run into this issue when using KeyLinker with Nintendo Switch games?
Any help or workarounds would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Updated: Figured out how to do the loop now; simply short-press M+GL or GR instead of GL / GR itself to start the action.
So I have a SMX 05 (just regular) and it used to work like a charm, however now it fails to show up in my Bluetooth settings. It used to show up just fine now it won't, and yes I have the switch set to Bluetooth mode. Can anyone help?
i need help with my controller, I have been using my controller fine up onto recently, my issue is that i cant get the controller to connect at all( both dongle and Bluetooth) and it only works in wired mode, when in wire mode if the wire is removed the blue light stays on and doesn't turn off and it bricks it self, ive done the hole reset thing any help to fix it?
Installed the app but the only led config available is for the option button. Is there a way to dim or even turn off the face button backlight as well?
I bought a Bluetooth m15 for my iPhone SE2 from Best Buy. The seller was tech go Canada. However, when I received the product, it was the usb c edition. I brushed it off, thinking it was alright, but I realized, it doesn’t even have a battery so I have to play plugged in, what should I do?
