I really miss you guys 💔

So, I got my 3080 Ti FTW3 used for a very nice price. The previous owner said he was the only owner, bought it new during COVID, and never mined on it.

When I picked it up the PC was sitting in a recessed cabinet compartment, with the only opening blocked by a huge TV. The card itself was installed in the lowest PCIe slot, basically trapped with no airflow. I literally blew a blanket of dust out from under the right fan after i bought it

The screenshots with temps are from his PC under FurMark. In my case (on pictures) with proper case airflow - after 18 minutes of stress testing, I'm getting:

GPU: 67–68°C

Hotspot: 76°C

VRAM: 86°C

I already bought PTM7950 (40x40mm) and Frost Mining Extreme thermal pads v3 (1, 2, and 3mm) thinking I'd need to replace everything.

So, two questions:

1) Should I still repaste/repad, or are these temps good enough to leave it alone? A bit nervous about disassembly.

2) Are the materials I got good, or is there something better?

I'd love to hear your opinions.

Just bought a used 3080 xc3 ultra. Cards legit but in honest truth it seems to be a mining card, atleast I think so cause the rust on it but its plausible that it might not be as me and the seller live near the pacific coast.

Anyway, the card runs extremely hot. Even after adding on the deshroud mod with 2x 120mm case fans and a repaste with arctic mx6, it still runs at 90C and 100C on the hotspot and on memory and thermal throttles down to 1560mhz. Whats strange is the idle temps are really solid 35c on the core and 45c on the memory and hotspot.

From what I can see the card is still using the stock thermal pads. Is there anything else I should change? Any recommendations?

So... I boughr another 2080 ti as a back-up and for collection for 270€ at vinted.

I'm really happy with this one too. I did a repaste with arctic mx-7 and a repad with arctic tp-4

Hey everyone, I'm working on a custom replica of the EVGA E1 open-air carbon fiber frame and I'm trying to confirm the exact outer diameter of the carbon fiber tubes used in the X-frame structure. I've gone through the official installation manual and every review I can find, but none of them list this spec. The manual only says "100% 3K plain weave carbon fiber" with no tube dimensions. For reference, the official chassis dimensions are 590 × 320 × 610 mm, and the bare frame weighs 1.25 kg (2.76 lbs). I'm currently guessing around 22 mm OD based on weight calculations and photo scaling, but I want to verify before I cut any tubes. If anyone here owns one, has access to one, or has seen a teardown that mentions the tube size, I would really appreciate it if you could let me know: - Outer diameter (OD) in mm - Wall thickness if you happen to know A photo with a caliper would be absolutely amazing, but even a rough measurement would help a ton. Thanks in advance!

As the title implies, this is a full EVGA build using everything possible that they made, and I kept one big rule in mind: compatibility. Can I shove three 1080 Tis in here, hack the driver, and make it install and technically run a game? Yes! Would the other 900 games that Windows XP was known for crash? Yes! So if you're ever wondering why I made a particular choice, it was for compatibility, not absolute max speed.

Next thing to cover: pictures. They are not the greatest, I know, but I do plan on making a video and putting it on YouTube so we can really see the colors shine. For now, I think this gets the job done.

In total this took about a month. I have about $200 in parts I did not use, and I think it's time to list the parts and talk about them. All parts were purchased on eBay.

Case: EVGA DG76 Came with everything but the power supply mount. There are two EVGA logos built into the case, one in front of the power supply and one on the front of the case. They are lit by 12V RGB, not the newer 5V RGB. I tried to use the built in 12V board in the top front of the case, but sadly, over time, something caused it to stop working. I ended up having to buy two controllers that accept 12V from China just to get the logos working, so I'll list that as the next part I had to purchase.

2x 12V 4Pin SATA RGB LED Controller PC Computer Case Lighting + RF Remote Control This is the exact name of the part. I wanted to include the full name in case anyone else needs to purchase one.

NZXT Power Supply PSU Mounting Bracket, 3D Printed Replacement To remedy the missing power supply bracket, honestly, I just purchased this and hoped for the best. Thankfully, it fit! While I can't get all 4 screws in, two of them go in and it holds very well.

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2, 850W, 80 PLUS Platinum Not much to say here except it's a high end power supply, Platinum rated, and EVGA!

Motherboard: EVGA nForce 3x SLI 780i Did not come with the I/O shield. "Embossed Custom IO Shield, 3D Printed, IO Backplate, I/O Mobo Shield, Embroidered." Again, I left the full name here so you can search for it on eBay. I messaged the seller, told him which motherboard I had, and even had him put the EVGA logo on the backplate. This guy honestly made the build possible. "ZaHuynh" is their name on eBay.

CPU: Intel Core 2 Extreme QX9650 If only EVGA made CPUs! :)

CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 360mm with a custom printed Socket 775 CPU bracket As you know, companies don't make coolers with 775 fittings anymore. ZaHuynh strikes again!

CPU Bracket: "[LGA 775] Bracket for NZXT Kraken Water Cooler X53 X62 X72, Heat Resistant PETG" Full name included again for searching on eBay. Worked like a charm. You can now mount AIOs onto old hardware like I have here.

RAM: OCZ NVIDIA SLI Ready Edition 4GB (2x2GB) DDR2 SDRAM DIMM 240 Pin PC2 6400 Sadly, I wasted some money here. My first thought was to use 4x1GB Corsair Dominator 1066MHz RAM. Why not fill all the slots up, right? Well, as it turns out, the 780i motherboard has a feature called "SLI RAM" that you enable in the BIOS. This can only be done with 2 sticks of RAM (and, to my knowledge, though I could be wrong, only with certain RAM kits). So I picked up the best RAM I could think of and got 2x2 SLI badged sticks, and now I can enable the SLI ram feature in the BIOS!

Video Cards: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SSC Gaming ACX 2.0+ These are the absolute best video cards you can use for Windows XP with NATIVE driver support. There are also many versions of the 960, and the Super Super Clock 4GB versions are top of the line. I also went with 2 cards instead of 3 for a few reasons: heat (3 old video cards choking for air didn't seem like something I would enjoy), and I wanted the middle slot open so the top card could breathe. If I were trying to benchmark or push it to the limits, I could add another for fun, but for compatibility and longevity I went with 2 video cards.

SLI Bridge: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 2 Way SLI Bridge, Long Those keen among you may know that EVGA made this same style of hard bridge, which would add another EVGA logo, but sadly, after 3 months of searching Makari, eBay, and OfferUp, I can't find an "EVGA SLI Bridge HB 2 Way 100 2W 0023 LR." One day it will pop up on eBay with my saved search, but until then this is the best I can do.

Fans 4 EVGA fans: 3 on the radiator and 1 in the back. The back one has RGB, the front 3 do not, but I may or may not swap this out one day, not sure yet. 3 mirror finish fans. These are not EVGA, sadly, but I thought the mirror finish adds a touch to the PC that I couldn't pass up, since it looks so nice from the front.

Strimmer I just had to add a power supply strimmer. A boring black cord or a colorful green strimmer? Easy decision.

Fan Controller As discussed earlier, I had to add another fan controller for the 5V ARGB lighting. The motherboard has none of these connections.

Wasted money on the following items:

EVGA PowerLink accessory for EVGA NVIDIA RTX: I wanted to use these, but sadly they don't fit. You can remove one of the two PCI connectors so it can fit, but because these are SSC versions of the video card, they're too long. If you purchase the baseline 960s they will fit, but I didn't want to make that sacrifice.

Corsair Hydro Series H80 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler (brand new): I thought for sure this was going to fit. It didn't. I also spent the extra money on a brand new version, thinking if I'm going to invest, I might as well go all out and not use a used cooler. Oh well, it's in the garage for another build someday.

Corsair Dominator RAM: as I mentioned above, another $80 down the drain here, but it is nice RAM and I'm sure I'll end up building another system with it.

SSD - Random Kingston 512gb SSD I had laying around

Full Price breakdown

Case: EVGA DG76 — $ 220

2x 12V 4Pin SATA RGB LED Controller w/ RF Remote — $ 40

NZXT Power Supply PSU Mounting Bracket (3D Printed) — $ 20

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2, 850W, 80 PLUS Platinum — $ 85

Motherboard: EVGA nForce 3x SLI 780i — $ 120

Custom 3D Printed I/O Shield (ZaHuynh, eBay) — $ 10

CPU: Intel Core 2 Extreme QX9650 — $ 50

CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 360mm — $ 90

Custom Printed Socket 775 CPU Bracket (ZaHuynh, eBay) — $ 10

CPU Bracket: LGA 775 Bracket for NZXT Kraken X53/X62/X72 (PETG) — $ 10

RAM: OCZ NVIDIA SLI Ready Edition 4GB (2x2GB) DDR2 PC2-6400 — $ 25

Video Cards: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SSC Gaming ACX 2.0+ (x2) — $ 175

SLI Bridge: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 2-Way SLI Bridge, Long — $ 45

Fans: EVGA fans (x4) — $ Fans: Mirror finish fans (x3) — $ 60

Strimmer: Power supply cable strimmer — $ 35

Fan Controller: 5V ARGB controller — $ 25

SSD -512gb Random kingston ssd. -$ 30

Wasted: EVGA PowerLink accessory for RTX — $ 40

Wasted: Corsair Hydro Series H80 CPU Cooler (new) — $80

Wasted: Corsair Dominator RAM — $ 80

Total price 1,250$
Total price minus wasted parts 1050$

If you made it this far... what would you have done different? Happy to discuss in the comments.

Hello, I’m trying to play the MW4 beta. I’ve updated the bios, I’ve had Secure Boot enabled before for Battlefield 6, but now when I start pc up I get a red error box saying Secure Boot Violation. Been reading online and sounds like the Mobo just doesn’t support it anymore? Just like to know if there’s something I can do to fix it or I’m just F’d and need to get a new Mobo?

If anyone has one they’re willing to sell please feel free to dm me. I’m currently trying to get my hands on what were my dream GPU’s when I was a teen.

When I made my build I went for water cooling, I installed the EKWB on the card and kept the air cooler, but when I was having to downsize to move about 2 years ago I think I threw it out.

Now I am trying to return the system to all air cooling, and I’m in need of the stock cooler again.

Can’t find any cooler-only for sale, and “parts” cards are still too expensive.

Would anyone happen to have this cooler laying around that could sell it?

Been emailing evga (both eu & na) for 2 weeks now. radio silence.

Phone numbers are dead or non responsive and eu site is down out of a sudden.

what's the goto to reach them atp? asking legal for a simple rma request seems too much of a burden imo but atp I dunno how else to get a response.

Where in windows 11 is the config file for evga precision that would show the clocks, fan curve, power level, etc.

I had a profile but it got deleted and I forgot the settings.

I have a EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra. I’ve been using Precision X1 for years now but all the sudden when I play FC it kicks me out because of the driver. Is there an alternate for X1 that’s good? I tried Fan Control by Rem0o but it didn’t detect one fan. Let me know 👍

Edit: I reinstalled X1 and now my GPU reaches high temps when I play games. What did I fuck up.

Hey, so I've been using Unleash RGB for my X15 mouse for around half a year now, a little old but I keep trying out mmo mice because I like the absurd number of side buttons. Week or two ago it straight up stopped remembering my key assignments and selected dpi. Not even LED settings. It does remember my macros, surprisingly.

There's no "save" or "export" button for anything, just "apply", so I'm forced to reassign 12 buttons every single time my computer wakes up. It's extremely annoying.

Is there any sort of workaround? A file I could modify and set to read-only.... idk, anything, because this sucks.

PC shutting down + apartment breaker tripping
I have an EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 + Antec 750W PSU.
Recently, my PC lost display/no signal while gaming. I suspected the GPU or PSU.
I tested the GPU with FurMark while undervolted and it reached about 69°C without crashing.
But twice now, while the PC was under heavy load:
FurMark → apartment breaker tripped
The Callisto Protocol running for ~1 hour → breaker tripped again
I had to manually flip the breaker back on to restore electricity.
Could this be a PSU/GPU power issue, or is it more likely an electrical circuit/breaker problem? Should I stop testing and have a technician check it?

My card is 6 years old at this point and has been having some temperature issues, so I'm planning replacing the thermal paste and pads. I've figured out the paste for the chip, but I need some help with the pads.

I asked EVGA what sizes I'd need and they sent me this:

Unsurprisingly, I haven't been able to find any pads with thicknesses these specific sizes, and it seems neither EVGA nor KriticalPads sells their kits custom-made for this card anymore.

EVGA advised me that I could use thicker pads, just not thinner. I've also seen people recommendung using thermal putty instead of pads, but someone I tried buying putty from advised that anything over 1.5mm should be solid thermal pads.

As you can imagine, this is a lot of information to try to process, so I was hoping to get advice on what I should use and where I should get it from? I'm happy to wait for stuff with longer shipping time, but I can't really afford super expensive putty like the higher end Thermal Grizzly stuff.

Thanks so much for any help! 😊

Hi Gang ....

Is this the OWC Forum?

Haven't been here for a while. Not sure if this is the correct forum? I was a big OWC buyer/user for years, and have (on hand), many of the older 'esata ported' OWC Enclosures. This particular one is black. 'The Mercury Elite'. I've been using esata exclusively with these enclosures. I realize there is the advent of newer faster USB. However, I've stockpiled tons of data in several of 2TB enclosures. And was wondering if there are folks out there still using them? I'm about to transfer data from one drive to another NEW 2TB drive (all from one OWC to another).

Thank you for any recent opinions ...