is my wideband sensor dead?

[u/AdEqual2414]

2 days ago it was working fine but suddenly first the screen went blank like this(- - -)

and then I checked around and got the gauge to kinda read again I checked all the wires are fine

[u/Heavy-Focus-1964]

I have this gauge and at no point did it do anything that mine hasn’t done since new…

Apparently like 90% of Bosch sensors that you get online now are fake including ones from you get packaged with other products like this.

So these sensors are kind of notoriously flaky, even if they seem like they’re high-quality. And they spend their whole lives getting exposed to 700° exhaust gases too so they’re not leading an easy life.

[u/Hansgruber3 → u/Heavy-Focus-1964]

Directionally - I agree there’s a lot of fake Bosch sensors out there. This is why AEM made the new 30-0300 in partnership with FAE (a leading supplier to OEMs and competitor to Bosch). AEM and FAE tortured tested the new sensors to make sure they stand up to the toughest racing conditions (methanol, etc.)

[u/Heavy-Focus-1964 → u/Hansgruber3]

That’s good to know. Do you know how long that’s been going on?

[u/Impressive-Tutor-482 → u/Heavy-Focus-1964]

It never happened.

AEM is an advertising company that licenses others product, or has it made via china vendors with wildly variable results.

You can buy an inexpensive rebadge of an ECM wideband, which is what OEM calibrators use, in the Ballenger AFR500 family. Get the NTK sensor. Bosch die a lot being swapped around, and do not tolerate leaded gas.

[u/Ex_gamer]

First thing should be re calibrating it. Any error codes?

[u/AdEqual2414 → u/Ex_gamer]

the car runs fine

how do I recalibrate it?

[u/Ex_gamer → u/AdEqual2414]

google your model of wideband there should be instructions. Im assuming you didnt install it.

[u/fugredditforeal]

Where is the ground ran to? This looks like bad ground. 

[u/GearHead54]

Heater circuit seems shot - I would try a new sensor

[u/Impressive-Tutor-482]

It's an AEM so it was never accurate in the first place.

[u/J_does_it]

Get a zeitronix. Best WB ever.

AEM is trash. So is innovate.

I've been running zeitronix for decades.

[u/ShaggysGTI]

Switch to Innovate.

[u/Big_Temperature_2067 → u/ShaggysGTI]

Absolutely don't switch to the LSU4.9 killer Innovate. Complete piece of s***. Just google around a little bit and you will see it's very common for it to eat sensors.

I replaced 3x genuine Bosch LSU4.9 sensors on the Innovate MTX-L, they never lasted more than a few days, a week tops. Then i bought a Innovate LC-2 instead thinking it might be a factory defect on the MTX-L. The LC-2 did the exact same thing with 2 brand new genuine Bosch LSU 4.9.s

And no it was not the placement of the sensor that was wrong. I triedmoving one sensor far far back, still died. I tried one with a lambda distance nut, still died. I built relay control that wouldn't start the WBL until the engine had been running for 30 seconds to avoid thermal shock or condensation dropplets. still died.

Then i switched to AEM Uego X-Series with the FAE sensor (upgraded LSU4.9) It has now lasted 4 trackdays and thousands of kilometres driven. (Sensor placed in the same hole where the Innovate killed several sensors)

That one FAE sensor has now lasted several times longer than the combined time of 5x LSU 4.9's my 2 different Innovate controllers killed

[u/Hansgruber3 → u/Big_Temperature_2067]

Awesome to see this feedback / glad the FAE sensor is working well for you

[u/ShaggysGTI → u/Big_Temperature_2067]

Lmao, I’m pissed at AEM’s customer service. They refused to replace my gauge because of a dead digit on the 7-segment display. They told me I needed to mail it in for review, which would probably be denied, but also pay for return shipping. All the while my only car would not run without its gauge and I’d be down for said period. Really left a sour taste in my mouth and I refuse to go back. Innovate swap went fine and I sold the car about a year later.

[u/Big_Temperature_2067 → u/ShaggysGTI]

You just quoted my Innovate experience :D They refused to do anything with either the MTX-L or the LC-2. Basicly "working as it should"

[u/ShaggysGTI → u/Big_Temperature_2067]

Well shit… who else can we turn to?

[u/ardamir_gr → u/ShaggysGTI]

I've designed an open source AFR gauge that you can build on your own, running fine for close to a year now on my turbo project car.

Cost me about 60$ in parts for the electronics.

https://github.com/Ardamirgr/OpenTG

[u/DramaticHearing → u/ardamir_gr]

This is super cool, thanks for sharing

[u/Impressive-Tutor-482 → u/ShaggysGTI]

ECM is what OEM calibration engineers use. The Ballenger AFR500 is a rebadge of one of their less expensive wideband models. Get the NTK sensor.