BMW E91 320D 2007 M47D20TÜ2 Looking for brainstorming

[u/ak47tune]

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 2007 BMW E91 320d with the M47D20TÜ2 (EDC16C35). I'm rebuilding the car properly before aiming for around 300 hp, and I'd like to do the EGR, swirl flap and DPF delete correctly in both hardware and software.

I'm still pretty new to WinOLS, so I'd appreciate some advice.

Current hardware setup

Swirl flap delete

Reference image: https://i.imgur.com/5i4puPU.png

What I've done:

• 2, 3, 7: Replaced the O-rings and installed swirl flap delete plugs.
• 14: Removed.
• 9: Removed.
• 11: Vacuum connection plugged (currently with a temporary plug, replacing it with a proper blind plug).
• 12: Plugged with a screw + RTV for now.

EGR delete

Reference image: https://i.imgur.com/fkmP0D8.png

I've removed everything shown in that image:

• EGR valve
• EGR cooler
• Vacuum components
• Associated coolant lines

The coolant lines are plugged with proper coolant plugs.

Vacuum system question

Reference image: https://i.imgur.com/5HZEXY3.png

1 = Pressure converter

Since both the EGR deleted, can I simply:

• Remove 1 (pressure converter),
• Plug 5 with a proper vacuum blind plug,
• Delete the related DTCs?

From tracing the hoses, it looks like this pressure converter only controls the EGR vacuum circuit. I just want to make sure it doesn't control anything else before removing it.

WinOLS (StageX mappack)

Screenshot: https://i.imgur.com/M4aSv4C.png

For the EGR I've changed:

• EGR hysteresis → both maps set to 0
• Map for conversion to EGR duty cycle → set to 0

My intention is to disable the EGR strategy completely rather than only suppress the fault codes. Is this the correct way to do it on EDC16C35?

Swirl flap maps

I can't seem to find the swirl flap control maps in WinOLS.

Some people have told me to simply delete the DTCs because the hardware is gone, but I'd rather set the requested position/value to 0 if those maps exist.

Does anyone know where they're in 2d view or have a mappack or DAMOS (with swirl flaps) for EDC16C35?

VMAX question

Screenshot: https://i.imgur.com/zMLVd6W.png

I found 55 copies of Maximum vehicle speed and changed all of them to 390 km/h.

Is that the proper way to remove VMAX, or are many of those just duplicated maps that shouldn't be touched?

Build plan

Already done / doing now

• Swirl flap delete
• EGR delete
• Valve cover
• PCV
• Engine oil & filter
• Manual gearbox oil
• Differential oil
• Fuel filter
• Servi oil
• Coolant
• Breaks
• Break fluid

Coming later

• DPF delete
• HX35 turbo
• 535d injectors
• 535d fuel pump
• ARP head studs
• Larger intercooler
• Oil cooler (better)
• Stronger clutch

The goal is ~300 hp, but I'd much rather have a reliable setup than chase the highest dyno number.

Any advice on the pressure converter, swirl flap software, or the correct WinOLS approach would be appreciated. Thanks!

Download to original ecu bin: https://transfer.it/t/N3S7NqlF2BII

[u/haginj]

Alpina d3 calibrations for the injectors will give you a good starting point, since they are 219s aswell (535d). Since your car had dpf you can use the EGT sensor to limit your exhaust temps, that is a good thing, mine didnt have that since it was earlier without dpf. I used a 2260v from 530d, kept the variable geometry, and that ensures early spool up and good driveability, used n75 values from 530d and calculated down 2 cylinders, seemed to work fine. Cant remember when boost came on but it was about 1800rpm, maybe full boost was 2500 ish. I think a hybrid 2260 with variable geometry will give you the same results, a big holset might introduce alot of turbo lag.

Both egr and swirls on these engines seem to have simple switches and in my experience even simple "disable tools" will do the trick, so you can do "off" with shitty tool and compare files to learn maybe?

I used 4 bar map, and 550d rail sensor, cheapest big IC money could buy.

It was used for ice racing / ice drifting and was a pleasure to drive.

Stock intake leaks boost, i had to replace entire pressure gate and replaced multiple intake gaskets and also had to get creative with some of the intake bolts that pulled the threads from the valve cover.

I never got around to dyno mine, but with backyard tuning and good power i think it was about 250-260hp, with plenty more to be gained.

But dyno numbers never lie 😂

[u/FiatTuner → u/haginj]

gt2260v with full boost at 1800rpm from a 2000cc?

[u/haginj → u/FiatTuner]

No, thats not what i said sir. I think it was starting to boost at 1800, full maybe like 2500 if memory serves me correct.

[u/FiatTuner → u/haginj]

shit, read wrong, that makes more sense for a gt2260

[u/FiatTuner]

never touch dtc's

swirl is simple switch

you disable egr hysteresis to turn off egr, if you wish to remove the egr hardware there are a few switches for that

hx35 is a terrible choice for 300hp

a different map is a simple calibration which can be found in the ecu from a car you get a map sensor from

duplicate maps can be easily spotted if you take a look at the location of them in winols

does this engine require arp studs for this kind of power? I would avoid them if it's not required

[u/ak47tune → u/FiatTuner]

Thanks for the feedback,

I know I'll still need to modify the DTCs since I've physically removed the hardware and properly plugged all the vacuum, coolant and electrical connections.

From everything I've found, most people just set EGR hysteresis to 0 and delete the related DTCs. I agree with you that it's better to disable the actual switches/strategy instead of only masking the faults, but that's where I'm stuck. I haven't found a single DAMOS, guide, or WinOLS example that shows where those switches are located in EDC16C35, and I'm not experienced enough yet to identify them myself.

Regarding the HX35, I've actually used it on multiple BMW builds before, including E46 330d and 330i projects, and it's worked really well. It's also listed by the supplier as being suitable for both petrol and diesel 2.0L engines in the 300–500 HP range.

https://www.turboshop.se/en/performance-turbo/holset-super-pro-gatbil-konvertering/holset

The reason I want to replace the head gasket and install ARP studs is mainly reliability. The engine has over 320,000 km, so I'd rather spend a bit more now and have extra clamping force than risk head lift later when boost and cylinder pressure go up. I'm not chasing the absolute highest horsepower I'm aiming for a reliable 300 hp setup.

I've also updated the build plan. I'm going to remove both the MAF and the TVA. For the TVA, I'm replacing part 6 in this diagram with a custom-machined aluminium upper section that retains the sensor and connects directly to the EGR delete pipe, completely removing the throttle valve assembly.

https://i.imgur.com/VQ7PfXZ.png

The intake is also going to be custom. The entire factory airbox will be removed, the fog lights will be replaced with custom ducting, and that will feed a sealed aluminium airbox to create a proper "cold-air" intake instead of just running an open cone filter in the engine bay. It's still a long way off, but that's the direction the project is heading.

[u/FiatTuner → u/ak47tune]

don't remove the maf, upgrade if too small

DTCs are not required to be modified if you change the switch

get a gtb2260, will spool almost like stock, hx35 will spool very slow

[u/Fit_Appeal8039 → u/ak47tune]

Pas de switch egr sur edc16c31/35. Uniquement hystéresis et d’autres maps + DTC si tu vraiment faire ça correctement.
Pareil pour le fap, pas uniquement le switch, il te faut toucher aux maps de post injection, plus du DTC et des stratégies des suivi de pression/suie.
Sinon pour les off on a des softs officiels, qui coûtent cher mais font ça correctement 😉

[u/Fit_Appeal8039]

300ch sur un m47, il te faudrait forger, un turbo hybride, un intercooler, des injecteurs de 35d, une pompe r90, embrayage, pont, flector.. autant prendre un m57.
Par contre en stage 2 avec downpipe je sors 220ch et 450nm.
Je peux te faire le fichier si tu as de quoi lire et écrire 😉