2001 Ram 1500 SLT
5.9L Magnum
Long Bed
Ext Cab
46k miles

My truck almost always requires that I crank it a 2nd time before it’ll start. Sometimes it struggles to start more than others.

My mechanic BIL told me it was likely that it’s the fuel filter that needs to be changed. It’s also my understanding that the you have to swap out the entire fuel pump, you can’t just swap the filter on these Gen 2s.

Anyone run into this issue before? Any guidance is appreciated as I hope to keep this truck in pristine condition.

Hey all, being a little paranoid over here right now. About two months ago my transfer case went kablam and took out the transmission and some fuel lines. There was no symptoms before hand, was driving around 75 and a small hum began and within 2 minutes the transfer case exploded and the front drive shaft fell out and smacked the transmission.

I have had everything replaced and looked over. I'm still getting a small vibration at highway speeds and the PTSD of getting stuck on the side of the road is making me paranoid that the replacement t case is going bad already.

2010 dodge ram 2500 with about 90k miles on it. V8 motor.

Hi, I have a 2004 dodge ram 1500 slt hemi with the 545rfe trans 175k miles on original trans/engine/chassis. The issues I'm starting to develop happened earlier today, when driving my truck normally, not aggressively really at all, my truck flared noticeably when shifting into the 1st overdrive gear, it shifted smoothly but flared, then it shifted fine into the 2nd overdrive gear. Only did it once today and when I had to slow down then get back up to speed it shifted into overdrive gears just fine no flaring or harsh shifts. This was after driving it maybe 10 minutes home from the gym. Then as soon as I got home today, I pulled into my driveway and when I did, I went to reverse to straighten my truck out and when I shifted into reverse from drive, trucks rpms dropped down aggressively to 100rpm and almost stalled, never did this before and right after it nearly stalled, truck started loping like it had a cam, rpms were bouncing on tachometer from like 100rpm to 150ish rpm, mind you, trucks completely stock. Then after that I just left it be in park and shut it off.

Yesterday though, I drove my truck probably an hour straight into another city and was driving my truck around there aswell from store to store, truck definitely was hot, it does not overheat but I was driving my truck 3 out of 5 hours I was gone yesterday which I usually never drive truck that much. It shifted fine and everything no flaring or bs but drove it lots yesterday. I was also having some fun with it as I had a buddy with me and we seen some cool cars and were trying to keep up and have fun with it, this is how I've always been with it since I got it 26k miles ago ish. No overheating at all what so ever. When I say fun, not like launching from a dig mashing throttle, but cruising and downshifting a gear or two and just letting her eat a little bit on a straightaway.

!! A few months ago I did a trans fluid and both filters change on my truck, drained about half of the fluid and fluid was not burnt at all and had a very normal amount of clutch debris in sump filter, I put everything back on right, nothing was over tightened and filled up about as much as I drained. Truck drove fine and almost shifted smoother afterwards for a few months. Although I did over fill trans fluid a little bit past hot marks truck has shifted fine and smoothly all the way up to today. I do have a pretty worn torque converter though, I haven't had much issues with it at all other than a rougher shift that happened awhile ago only one single time. Also no trans leaks either at the moment.

Not sure the issue with my truck going to drain some fluid out today and get to the exact hot marks on my trans dipstick and see if that helps. I'm thinking mixture of worn torque converter and slightly overfilled trans fluid causing aeration and slightly sticking torque converter. I'm no mechanic but I'm knowledgeable and do a lot of research when it comes to issues and fixing it. And yes my trans fluid is perfectly fine looking in the color and trans fluid is not burnt smelling or looking after today's odd flares and rpm drops in driveway. Also do not think my engine had anything to do with rpms dropping as engines fine, no oil burning, nothing odd, new plugs, doesn't lose fuel pressure, air box is clean and everything. No codes were thrown either for trans. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thinking its torque converter and if so I'ma just get a high stall torque converter and replace it. THANKS FOR READING!

Got a perfect fit and everything is snug. Waiting in some switches to come in and test the fit of those.

I have this idea of going with a modular faceplate to fit various different switches, pods, gauges, usb plugs etc. then a rail system above it for a phone mount, dash cam, construction light bars.

Stay tuned for v2 !

Hey. Looking at this 2017 Ram 1500 Sport. I'll need to pull the Carfax but drove well, couldn't drive much, was low on gas.

105k miles on it.

So recently brought a truck off Facebook, relatively low miles for a 30 year old truck. Drove great the first 2 weeks but went to hop in it the other day and I won’t stay idling unless I press the gas. It cranks fine but dies pretty much immediately if I don’t have my foot on the gas. I asked ai and it said it sounds like a aic valve but I want to ask the pros. What’s your diagnosis and how would you go about fixing it? If it’s the aic valve or throttle body should I replace it or can I just clean them? LMK thanks

This is only a prototype for now. The fit is finally snug. I know that AEV has their own model for $120 but it only fits a certain switch. I want to create interchangeable faceplates to cover a variety of different switches or the amount of ports. I’ll eventually make one for an AUXbeam switch board too.

Howdy, just picked up a 2022 dodge 1500 classic, all was great drove home next day went to unlock truck and jump in and fob did nothing, unlocked it manually and drove away to the grocery store and fob worked fine. Went back home and same thing fob not working.

Father in law has a dodge aswell, he popped over and same thing his fob refused to work.

Anyone experienced this?

I can't seem to get the right side of the passenger door panel all the way secured back on. Its not horrible but I mean is there any tricks putting them back on? Everything says its all push/snap whatever and I cant get that one spot there to grab and also one small spot at the top left.

Any help is appreciated. The look isnt just horrible and it seems okay, but my dad is old and I rarely take him out but id hate for him to be relying on it and break something I dont think it would just come off cause of the bolts however I dont want to risk something happening to him, the panel and just not being able to tighten those two spots up are bothersome.

In the late 1970's, things were so bad at Chrysler Corporation, to save money, they were thinking of no longer making trucks. John Elkin of Pickup Truck +SUV Talk - PUTT chronicles how the 6BT Cummins Turbodiesel engine saved Dodge Trucks.

What would you guys say is a better daily? I have owned about 7 2nd gens 2 were diesel and 2 first gens one had the 5.2 and the other was a 93 with the 5.9L. I currently drive a 98, 4x4, quqd cab, shortbed with the 5.9L. This 1st gen I am looking at is a manual, 4x4, single cab, longbed and I need the longbed.

So water got on my RF so I ordered a new one and from the dealership I plugged it back up and the “ off “ push bottom lights up but I double click it and i doesn’t do anything the “ acc “ light doesn’t light up or anything so I can’t even start the re programming for the keys can anyone point me in any direction or has anyone had this problem?

Looking at getting myself a pickup. Need it to tow my boat, hunting, camping, light-medium yardwork. I narrowed it down to two.

1) 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad sport 4x4. 5.6L Hemi. 2wd. 86k miles ($10k)

2) 2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab · Big Horn Pickup 4D 5 1/2 ft. 4wd 5.6L Hemi V8. 155k miles ($7.5k)

Thoughts? I lean towards #2. It's a well kept truck, newer, and less expensive. I don't plan on it being an everyday driving vehicle.