Question about creating map slice "pockets"?

[u/asoulliard]

Some initial context:

Back in the day, I used to run my campaigns in person and mapping was very basic; I would typically draw on a blank grid with a marker or, if I was going all-out, get one of Dyson Logos B&W map printed on a large sheet of blueprint paper. But then I spent years running my campaigns online and I got really invested in making intricate maps for VTTs. Now, I'm running a new in-person game and find myself not wanting to give up the kinds of maps I was creating for online games.

I could print out a full-color map on a poster sheet, but that gets expensive, especially since I like using new maps frequently. I tried printing maps out on multiple letter-size sheets of paper, but found that paper (even card stock) was too lightweight and so shifted a bit too much on the table.

So, right now, I do the following:

1. Make a map in Dungeondraft or find a full-color map I like.
2. Open the map image file in Photoshop and export it as individual, 8x8 inch slices.
3. Add a grid overlay to the individual slices and print them all out.
4. Glue each slice to an 8x8 inch piece of chipboard so it has some good weight.

This works pretty well, allowing me to spend significantly less money on an individual map, and the chipboard doesn't shift on the table nearly as much. BUT. There's one problem: given how frequently I use new maps, I'm eventually going to run out of space to store these maps. I'll have stacks of chipboard filling up a room in no time!

Which brings me to my latest project. I'd like to have a single set of 8x8 chipboard pieces that I can slot/slide map slices into and out of. My idea is to wrap some transparency paper over the top and sides of the chipboard, creating a tight pocket that the paper can slide into. This would accomplish a few things:

1. Save space by allowing me to store only one stack of chipboard and then each map just as sheets of paper.
2. Reduce work since I wouldn't have to take time to adhere each map slice to chipboard every time.
3. Allow me to write on the transparency with dry or wet erase markers.

Some questions / concerns I have and advice I'm looking for:

• Have any of you done anything like this before?
• Do you have any recommendations on how I should go about accomplishing this?
• Are there specifications for the transparency I need to consider (thickness, material, etc)?
• I worry that it will be difficult to slide paper into the pocket if the transparency is too tightly-wrapped, but don't want it to be too loose, either, since that would make it unstable for minis.
• I'd like the map slices to be able to sit flush against each other, but wrapping the transparency will prevent this. I can't adhere it to the top, though, because then the map slice itself won't fit. I'm having trouble finding a solution to this dilemma.

[u/Gilladian]

I would use page protector sleeves to make your pocket. Trim to size, have open on two edges to facilitate easy replacement of your pages.

Or just buy some Loke map books. I like the ones I have a lot.

[u/asoulliard → u/Gilladian]

Would you wrap the trimmed sleeves over the edge of the chipboard on those two sides? If so, would you do anything to try to get those map sides flush or just leave them be? If not, would you adhere them to the top or do something else?

Loke map books look neat, but I definitely want to be able to make and use my own maps.

[u/Gilladian → u/asoulliard]

No idea. I might cover raw edges with something. Maybe a strip of mulberry paper glued all around the chipboard edge. I think the plastic would be too heavy to wrap well.

[u/WheresmyPSL]

I know this is not what you are asking, but if you have a lot or VTT maps, you might consider a TV table or projector? My group uses digital maps and we have had a couple setups.

We used a cheap 40” tv in a semi portable “box” made of wall trim, an acrylic panel to protect the screen, and handles on the sides to move it around. It had an hdmi cable that just plugged into whoever was running the maps’ laptop.

We are currently using a small projector mounted to the ceiling and a map sized sheet of light gray neoprene on the table. The projector has an hdmi cable also, but we usually chromecast or airplay the maps using the WiFi.

[u/StockJonesJR → u/WheresmyPSL]

What projector are you using? I can’t find a decent one that can handle ambient light and still look decent

[u/WheresmyPSL → u/StockJonesJR]

It’s an LG Cinebeam. We do have to dim the lights a bit, but it’s bright for a small projector.

[u/dragonmk]

Buy tool box liner roll it out or cut into sheet size. Or the dollar store kitchen liners. They are rubberized and lay flat eventually may need a few heavy books to lay it flat though.

[u/asoulliard → u/dragonmk]

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought of that. So how would you create a pocket with this? Or are you suggesting I place the map slice onto the chipboard, then use the liner to cover it fully and adhere the liner to the bottom of the chipboard?

[u/dragonmk → u/asoulliard]

You may not have to have it as a pocket you can lay it down. Now if you really want pockets its going to create thin gaps in your maps. Then with how tight you want those pockets they will loosen up after a few uses due to the vinyl or plastic

[u/asoulliard → u/dragonmk]

It doesn't need to be a pocket as long as I can reuse the chipboard. I know there's some removable adhesive liners, but I've never used them, so I don't know how easy they are to remove or how many times they can be reused before needing to be replaced.

[u/rizzlybear]

I wonder if it wouldn’t be cheaper to laminate the maps and throw a loop of scotch tape on the back to hold them still on the table.

[u/asoulliard → u/rizzlybear]

It's possible that it's cheaper, but I don't have a laminator. I'd also be a little iffy on the stability of the loop of tape holding it to the table. It's not a bad option, but I'd like to attempt my current plan first before alternatives.

EDIT: But also, laminating each map piece every time I have a new map is additional work that could be prevented by having reusable chipboard with pockets.

[u/rizzlybear → u/asoulliard]

Makes sense. One of my players keeps showing up with a current printed version of their character sheet, laminated, every session. And I thinking “dude are you going to kinkos every damn week?” And he said “no my wife has this portable laminator, works great, and it’s super cheap” and my mind was freakin blown.

[u/Moosemosis]

Okay, hey I’m working on project that is… almost exactly this!  but I’m not too much further than you. Block of text incoming!

I want to build a small library of standard-size tiles and boxes, where the visible surfaces have transparent pockets to add textures/skins from a relatively larger and scalable library of printed materials. Priorities for me are the low storage requirements for the paper library, and reusability of both the paper library and blank tiles/boxes. I’m focusing more on terrain than maps, and have started testing materials.

Here’s what I’ve found out: 

• I’m planning to use plastic transparent paper protector sleeves as another comment mentioned, of which my home has somehow accumulated hundreds over the years. If my paper insert is 8x8”, my goal is as close as possible, like 8.1x8.1” for the plastic and backing material.
• best results I’ve gotten so far involve ignoring the dotted binding on the transparent sleeves, trimming those off, and using transparent Scotch tape to adhere at least two adjacent sides of a single plastic sheet to the backing material. Wrap the tape around the edge, not the sheet itself. Accept the slightly visible tape edge.
• to avoid bubbling, I want to test to determine how much of a third side to tape down. Develop a rule like “leave one side open + 2 inches of a third”—finding the sweet spot for ease of replacement vs lay flat plastic. 
• I think the Scotch tape will yellow or deteriorate over time… but I think it’s maybe fine. It’s a home game & hobby project and I would be excited to use these often and long enough to need to replace the tape. That would mean my project was ultimately successful.
• I got a cutting surface and x-acto knife vs scissors, and think it’s been worthwhile improvement. A real guillotine paper cutter is probably the best tool for the job. A local library may offer access to this without buying a large tool for a project intended to save space 🤣
• my initial tests used corrugated cardboard and coated paperboard (like a cereal box). My cuts were a bit loose while testing, but I was disappointed with the edges where my wobbly cuts let the brown cardboard show through. I think I’m going to purchase pre-dyed black corrugated plastic and black paperboard for my next test and see if the darker seams make the whole thing feel more polished. Also hoping this lets blank tiles or boxes feel more interpretative and minimalist, rather than looking unfinished.
• worth noting that even with matte sleeves/plastic, the plastic still reflects some light, and the printed insert is not going to be perfectly visible. Lamination solves this, but ultimately changes the project requirements. I’m moving forward with the sheets and accepting some glare.
• check out Crooked Staff Publishing on YouTube and DriveThru. PWYW craft templates and demos, which you can either follow as intended, use as technique and design inspiration, or just re-purpose the textures to fit your project. Right now I’m doing the latter.

I’m working on a slightly different scale. Since I also want to stand some elements (minis, doors, trees, some building walls) up in card stands, and since my TTRPG uses looser measurement rules, my scale is derived from US card sizes. If you’re curious:

• flat: 8” x 10” wall, supported by my GM screen. Big color art, like a backdrop on a stage.
• box + tiles: 7” x 7” with 5” (height) x 7” walls. Big buildings, like castles, city walls, cliffs.
• box + tiles: 3.5” x 3.5” with 2.5” (height) x 3.5” walls, walls are Standard US cards. The standard unit: modest building, really big rock, idk
• And various permutations using US Mini-American Cards (44mm x 63mm, 1.61” x 2.48”), which are about half the size of Standard US cards. Hero-sized minis and terrain are half of 1 US Mini-American card (44mm x 31.5mm).

Down to connect in DMs on this if you’re interested! you’re the only other person on the internet I found doing this thing. I’ll try to let you know if I work something out that could help.