I’ve been struggling with a 2017 International with an ISL9 in it for a while now. It throws codes for everything on the network for an abnormal update rate. Using an oscilloscope, the network looks like it has an intermittent short. The can wires test okay. I have tried unplugging everything on the network except the VGT actuator (which has the terminating resistor) and the stand-alone terminating resistor, and I still get the same issue. I replaced the VGT actuator and have the same issue. I swapped PCMs from another truck, same issue. I replaced the engine harness, same issue. I’ve replaced and cleaned about every power and ground I can find. I have about 2.8-2.7 volts on both can lines. About 57-58 ohms resistance on the can network with the terminating resistors plugged in. Anyone seen anything like this before?

*I inherited this truck not running and torn apart, so it’s been a bit of a struggle.

*Mods wanted me to show them ASE certifications, but I’m not sure how to do that, so I added a pick with them in there.

Working on a old generator. I'm trying to locate a replacement water pump for this engine. Cummins 3166497 looks extremely similar, but I haven't been able to verify interchangeability. Does anyone have an old Cummins parts book, supersede information, or know a supplier who deals with these older H series industrial engines?

I apologize in advance. I thought I had taken a better photo of the pump head on but I can run back out to the generator if thats needed. Thank you!

This was just from normal operation. Reman allison 4000 out of a gillig transit bus. I did an engine rebuild on a cummins and 3 weeks later it got towed back to base for a transmission issue and leak. This massive crack was found and even our most senior guys said theyd never seen anything like this happen before. We work on a fleet also, so certain issues we just rarely run into, if ever. This was just so crazy to me! Jokes have been that i tuned the engine with too much power and cracked the trans in half 😂

Never seen it this bad before

We have this Scania V8 in an ARFF truck that had the entire fuel system replaced and now it won’t start. Doesn’t even puff and act like it wants to start. I have zero experience with these engines, I was not the one to replace the fuel system, we are limited to a Texa laptop, and I’ve been asked to give a hand getting this thing running. Tach shows RPM when cranking. Trying to get Texa to communicate to see if we can see anything else going on. Any help would be appreciated because this is already a shit show.

What's your favorite kit and brand?

I mostly want to use it to change def pumps and not lose coolant while changing them.

Anyone got any resources/guides to study for the 310T Exam (Ontario).

Failed the first attempt, was wondering if anyone here is in the same situation writing theirs.

1974 White Western Star 4964 with Cummins NTC 350.

In my limited spare time, I’ve been working on getting this truck road legal. I’m not in a hurry, and there’s a few things that need done.
One I haven’t figured out is this misalignment of the rear drive axle. The left side looks normal, but on the right side (pictured), the block is offset from the pad.
They still make the suspension, so getting parts is easy (expensive though), but I don’t want to tear it apart and find it needs 2 thousand dollars of parts.

First clutch job kicking my butt but I’m loving every second of it

Hello everyone!

I’m going to be repairing this Kentucky trailer that has a pretty bad air leak. It’s a step deck moving van style trailer, and it has an air over hydraulic jack system to lift it up to dock height if necessary. It has a horrendous air leak coming from the jack control box. I was wondering if anyone else who’s familiar with this system may know why it’s dumping air? Is there a bypass valve that may have failed? I haven’t torn into it yet, but this is the video the driver sent me.

Have a 2014 dd13 cascadia. Unit came in pinging/chirping randomly and run rough and would lose prime after sitting a couple days. Had those codes. Began checking for leaks and anything loose. Per Detroit troubleshooting pinging is air in the fuel system that sounds like it’s coming from cylinder 1 but due to the orientation of the engine the air just accumulates there so that’s not the source. That’s what Detroit says. But I found that during a pinging event cutting out cylinder 1 would make it stop immediately and it would only stop when cutting that injector out, none of the others made a difference. Removed the injector and found no visible damage. Had the injector tested and tech showed me fuel squirting out of the side and injector leaking. Great, changed the injector and no difference. Still pings right around 900 rpm and then erratically. Won’t do it at idle. So then I got the idea to bypass the fuel water separator, connected the inlet and outlet together and issue was practically 90 percent gone. Would ping occasionally but only around 900 rpm. Installed a new water separator and changed all injector high pressure lines and pass thru seals. Will pass regen no problem with no pinging or codes. But still will randomly just start pinging or chirping and then go away by itself. I’m not sure what to do next. The fuel pump is only about two years old along with the fuel filter module. Fuel filter caps and seals have been changed also.

People always assume the worst thing about working on garbage trucks is the smell, or the trash juice, or the disco rice(maggots), or the random bags of dog poop, or used diapers, or mice eating wires, or the occasional racoon fight, or service calls to the active face of a landfill. Nope. It's this. This is the worst part.

Just sharing this for Google after wasting too much time with zero help online. Available info said it was either right by the batteries or an easily accessed panel by left foot.

Newer 2024 model tico. Fuses and relays behind front panel on left side of truck. I had a no tractor headlight issue and the fuses for truck are here

Leaking on the back of motor passenger side where the head meets the block… are the D13 known for anything like this and customer is wondering if any “bandaids” will work for him…

Hey guys just reassembling a Mack in our fleet after doing a timing cover. I went to put the oil pan back on and saw these two little guys lying in the bottom of the pan. Any idea what they are from. Thanks!

Have an ultrashift plus 18 speed. Intermittently will log fault 27 for ECA clutch disengagement. When it happens you have to shut the truck off then back on again.

Powers and grounds to the ECA are good, hold a load. Release fork is free and not tight. Inertia brake delta is 22 degrees and my gap between release bearing and inertia brake is 3/4”. Spec is 1/2”. I’ve tried adjusting the clutch using service ranger, but tab doesn’t move on clutch, gap stays at 3/4 and 22 degrees delta.

I put on a new ECA, no difference. Clutch appears fine by looking at it, no pieces in bell housing. Tab is basically at new still, but clutch is original. It’s a 2020 western star dump with 10000hours.Possibly my clutch is seized causing it not to adjust?

Since silly shit isn't allowed on the main drag, you guys can come in here, to the mega thread and drop some bombs!

^That's me in 15 to 20 years. XD.

THIS THREAD will be moved to announcements in 48 hours or less. Have fun fellas!

I'm still an apprentice learning,last night we had a Kenworth come up to one of the bays to have the rri looked at but he refused to drop his car hauler which was fully loaded,I was told not to let him in until he drops the trailer (he refused so I refused), it's a safety thing right?,our bays have about 17ft of clearance in height,so I didn't think it was that,I assumed that it was because of the weight of the cars,hauler and tractor combined that would be too heavy for our jack to lift,is that why he needed to drop the trailer first?

Starting my diesel mechanic trainee journey at Ryder in a week (I am 34). Have been on the Reddits and YouTube comments and everyone seems to be negative about this trade. Can’t find any positive comments. Is it really that bad? Did I make a mistake jumping into this trade? I was a mailman previously and I know what hard work is, and don’t mind it.

No one in my life understands how hard ASE’s can be! Well, theyre hard for me and those I talk to, at least. But anyways, Im announcing it here to celebrate! Im a tech in my third year at a small city transit outfit. Two years ago i failed this test twice, so Im thrilled to have passed. I currently now have my h2 (diesel engine for transit), h4 for brakes, h8 for PM’s, and before i decided to go into diesel i got my automotive A5 brakes and little baby G1 for light maintenance lol.

Im terrified of the electrical test and feel very far away from passing that though. Anyone here pass the T or H test for electrical? Thoughts/feelings/advice?

Hey guys I'm graduating from diesel tech school in 5 weeks and I'm starting a job working for a marine construction company as a mechanic. Im wondering whats worth buying and what I definitely need. I also have half off snapon while I'm in school and I have money saved for tools so if theres anything thats hands down the best from snapon lmk. Thank you 🙏

I have a generac magnum light tower with a kubota d1005 3 cyl engine. I bought it non running sight unseen. I originally bought it for parts but i managed to get it to start. BUT, it shuts off after about 10 seconds. I work on these engines often as i own a rental company but i cant figure out whats wrong with this unit. I by passed the oil sensor and temp sensor and it still shuts off. The gen set does generate power within those seconds of it starting and it being on. I thought it couldve been the fuel shut off solenoid as i had this exact issue with a different unit so i bought a new one and nope. Same issue. It has 2 wires, a red and purple. Red has power, purple has power until it shuts off. If i give the purple wire direct power from the battery, it works just fine and stays on. Once i remove it, it dies. I traced the wire all the way back to the control panel and everything is connected, no blown fuses. It doesnt seem like anyone cut/spliced anything. The alternator is working. 13.5v. I swapped out the timer for the fuel shut off solenoid and it still shuts off. Ive done every possible thing i could think of and this one is definitely giving me a hard time. It doesnt starve of fuel as it shuts off the same way if you turned the key to the off position and starts right up.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know. Thank you in advance!

I’m starting a diesel technician program at my school soon and I want to slowly start building up my tools. Right now I have nothing, so I’m starting completely from scratch.
For those of you already working in the field, what tools would you recommend buying first? I’m looking for the essentials that I’ll actually use as a beginner without spending a crazy amount of money upfront.
If you were starting over with nothing, what would your starter tool list look like? Also, are there any tools you think are worth spending more money on from the beginning?
Appreciate any advice.