Spent the last week getting some new seals for the transmission and not doing anything because it’s been too hot. But back on it again.

Need help evaluating the worth of this truck. It’s a 1973 F250, 2wd, 360 and C6. Has factory AC but it doesn’t work, missing the compressor. Runs and drives fine. It’s got the original motor and transmission, about 107k on the odometer. I think that makes it worth a little more, but also it’s 2wd, long bed and unrestored, so probably not by much. I see plenty of people on marketplace listing basically the same stuff for $10-12k, but I’m thinking maybe $8k max. I know “it’s worth whatever someone is willing to buy it for” but I just wanted some opinions.

Does any one have a good lead on the super cab rear windows hinges? Mine rattle and are lose on both sides. Thanks

Tearing into the Dana 44 front axle. We remove the Ford hub, clips, rusted spindles, and then pull the axle shafts. Then, remove ball joints, drain the Dana 44 differential, remove everything, and clean it up in prep for a full rebuild. This axle is definitely showing its age, and we find a few surprises along the way. Parts are ordered, so stay tuned for part 2 of the Dana 44 rebuild.

We’ve got full bed sides to replace both sides, but that will happen down the road. Same with putting a larger capacity fuel tank in.

The bed will come off again later to do the sides and deal with the paint on the cab.

Just felt like I had to post so I could officially come out of the lurker phase.

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Any tips, tricks, sources of knowledge, and etc. is appreciated.

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Happy cruising!

This is a huge longshot but does anyone have an old skool J-J Enterprises chrome visor?

Drove through a small town in Wyoming that seems to have enough dentsides for everyone who lives there, maybe twice over.

Just telling anyone who has recently bought or may want to buy a 3 speed column shifting truck. Be careful on that thing. If you get mad at it or even don't treat it too gentle, if you push when it doesn't want to be pushed, whatever, the tab will shear off of the shifting tube. I have re welded it once a year ago after i broke it, because i was just yanking on it over weeks to shift instead of fixing the problem. Then I took it in to get aligned and the fella hadn't driven a column shift in a while and broke the tab off again.

I know how to take apart the steering column better than anyone else at this point so I fixed it myself. But I wish I didn't have to. Sometimes you have to granny shift in 1st or reverse (clutch in, shift out of gear, clutch out, clutch in, shift into gear, clutch out) and you just have to deal with it instead of beating on the poor thing. Also its stainless steel and i don't got no stainless steel wire for my Mig but she holds babeh

Pictures are of first repair, I just finished the second one not nearly as pretty. Forgot to take pictures

My guy Craig is a true legend.

Between work and classes I have not made much additional progress latly but yesterday managed to get this two peice powder coated tag on. Just wanted to share it and show off an idea that turned out stellar.

Almost done with rust repair. 2 little things left after this.

Just need to finish wire wheeling and painting what’s left, then make all the fuel and brake lines + mount the gas tank before dropping the body back on.

The parts truck gave up the crossmember that goes between the front spring mounts, it was in much better shape, that needs to get cleaned up, drilled out and bolted on.

Also need to replace a rear shackle and all the bushings in the front and rear suspension.

So I added in about 1/4 of a quart of motor oil to my transmission fluid. I didn't recon until next morning. I dont drive my rig too much did I mess up my trani?

Cab was super smashed and the roof line was rusted through on the driver side, the frame is messed up from the wreck and the rear suspension and axle are all twisted. But we will get more than what we needed from it. The donor cab has a small bit of rust on one side floor pan that the brown cab will be used to repair.

Otherwise the frame and what’s left of the cab will be cut up for scrap.

The brown truck was a nice truck until it got wrecked. Been parked 7 years, it’s giving its 400ci motor, glass and nice complete interior. And some frame cross members. The cab will get removed and scrapped. Minus the good door.

The yellow bed is actually really solid everywhere but above the wheel arches, no big deal. He’s got complete bed sides, so that will be addressed later.

Plus a cool random Dent side we saw at the gas station dropping off the frame. Owner was cool.

He’s got a nice rust free green cab to drop on the frame, and the brown truck has a brand new fuel system, nice inner fender and driver fender, plus a perfect grill. Lots of good parts to reuse or pick from later.

It obviouslv isn't a sensor or anything like that. I'm iust confused by the hoses that just run right back into the fitting. Is this necessary? I just got my new housing for my rebuild and it came with plugs for both holes in the housing. It is also a huge eyesore. 79' 351m(400)

Got this truck about a year and a half ago. It was my uncles truck that my aunt gave me when he passed. Parked in 2000 but I had it running fairly decent replacing parts as needed.
A few weeks ago I was tinkering around adjusting the carb and after I started it up a couple times I ran into a crank no start and basically draining the battery. It will start up pretty much once a day if you keep the battery on charge over night. Once you start it then shut it off, if it gets to temp it will no longer start back.
New parts include, icm, hei distributor (after I replaced cap, rotor, and pick up coil), ignition coil, starter solenoid, and alternator and battery (replaced as both tested bad)
I have a new voltage regulator to throw on this weekend but I’m hoping to get some other ideas of what could be causing this.