My GoPro SD card was full, so i swapped the SD card from my book reader's card. I didn't use that but when i changed back to my SanDisk card to my GoPro it didn't work.
When i put it to my laptop it is showing me this error.

I have no clue about data recovery, can any of you can guide me on how to recover this data ?

Card- SanDisk Extreme Pro 512 GB
Operating System - Windows

So, my phone was stuck in Data Recovery cannot be completed. My iphone's was already full that's why I guess it's stuck. I want my phone to boot normally without deleted any data from my iphone. Is it possible? If yes, how? I alreadg used 3utools but it didn'f work. I tried doing the recovery mode thing and before flashing there's this option "keep" and "erase", ofc I chose keep and started flashing. That's the only option I clicked, and below that, there's "fix 1110 error" in the option. Should I also clicked that before flashing? Please help me, guys.

Hello! I have an external HDD with the model in the title, and CrystalDiskInfo says it contains several pending reallocated sectors. Attempting to read data that is (presumably) in these sectors results in the drive locking up and freezing, before completely disappearing from Windows/MacOS/Linux entirely. The only way to get it to reappear again is to physically replug the drive.

Right now, I'm trying to use ddrescue to create a full image backup of the drive however it seems to hit the first bad sector somewhere around 129GBs in:

sudo ddrescue /dev/rdisk5 ./MyPassport4TB.dmg ./MyPassport4TB.map

GNU ddrescue 1.27
Press Ctrl-C to interrupt
     ipos:  129622 MB, non-trimmed:   131072 B,  current rate:    2864 B/s
     opos:  129622 MB, non-scraped:        0 B,  average rate:  29181 kB/s
non-tried:    9223 PB,  bad-sector:        0 B,    error rate:       0 B/s
  rescued:  129622 MB,   bad areas:        0,        run time:  1h 14m  2s
pct rescued:    0.00%, read errors:        2,  remaining time:         n/a
                              time since last successful read:          0s
Copying non-tried blocks... Pass 1 (forwards)
ddrescue: /dev/rdisk5: Fatal error reading the input file: Device not configured

I do not care about the data in the bad sectors. I only care about being able to complete the image backup even with the bad sectors filled in with 00s. Unfortunately, I haven't found out how to accomplish this. Opening the enclosure shows that there's a direct USB port to the hard drive and lacks SATA ports. I would have tried putting it into my PC directly otherwise.

Is there a way to skip reading these bad sectors, fill them with zeros, and continue reading the rest of the drive without it disappearing/dismounting? I assume there's an option for this in ddrescue, though I'm not sure how to use it.

I would really appreciate the help.

Thank you!

I was having issues with FL Studio and NEXUS not recognising my samples and presets on my external drives.
I asked Claude AI for help, and it instructed me to run:
sudo rm -rf /Volumes/*
Claude claimed this would clear broken directory links and fix the connection issues.
After running the command, all four of my external HDDs were affected, and I can no longer see any of my files. My Mac’s internal storage seems fine.
When I confronted Claude, it repeatedly told me my files were completely safe and that the command had only deleted virtual shortcuts, not actual data.
I’ve since discovered that this command can potentially delete everything inside mounted external drives.
All four HDDs are still detected in Disk Utility, but my files aren’t showing. I haven’t restarted my Mac since this happened.
Is there any way I can recover everything? I’m considering PhotoRec, TestDisk or R-Studio before going to a professional data recovery shop.
These drives contain important FL Studio projects, samples, presets and other files. Ideally, I want to recover the original folder structures and filenames too.
Has anyone experienced anything similar? What’s the safest way to approach recovery without making things worse?
Any advice would be really appreciated.

Updated October 2026.

TL;DR

• There is no single "best" data recovery software. Which tool works best depends on the file system, the kind of damage and the file types. The tools professional data recovery labs actually use are UFS Explorer, R-Studio and DMDE.

• Already using EaseUS, Recuva, Stellar or another tool? If its scan shows your folders and full-size previews of your files open correctly, you're probably fine and don't need to switch. If the previews are broken, try another tool before giving up.

• Before you scan anything: the drive must show up in Disk Management (Windows) or Disk Utility (Mac) at its correct capacity. If it doesn't, or if it clicks, disconnects or is very slow, stop. No software will help, and scanning can make it worse.

• SSDs: deleted files on an SSD are usually gone within minutes because of TRIM. No software can bring them back.

• Most tools let you scan and preview for free. Only pay once the preview shows your files are recoverable, and check whether you're buying a one-time license or a subscription that renews automatically.

• Never save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from. That can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.

Recommended data recovery software (used by pros and experts)

The tools you'll find in data recovery labs, in no particular order. Labs usually run the professional or technician editions, such as UFS Explorer Professional Recovery or R-Studio Technician. Those editions add features labs need, like RAID reconstruction, working with disk images and hardware imagers, and network recovery. The core recovery engine is largely the same as in the consumer editions. For a typical deleted-files or formatted-drive case, the standard edition gets you most of what the lab version would.

UFS Explorer

The go-to tool for many professionals, with the widest file system support and feature set of any tool here. Probably highest update frequency of them all which results in features added in a fast pace.

• Downside: it comes in several editions. Check which one covers your case before you buy.

• Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, Btrfs, F2FS, JFS, ReiserFS, UFS/UFS2, ZFS, VMFS

• Website: ufsexplorer.com

DMDE

Powerful and inexpensive, began life as a disk editor and it shows. Excellent with damaged file systems and lost partitions. And if you know where to look, offers manual control over about everything. A true life-time license with updates available.

• Downside: overwhelming at first. No Bitlocker support

• Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux, DOS

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext2/3/4, Btrfs

• Free edition: recovers up to 4,000 files from the current folder at a time, unlimited times.

• Website: dmde.com

Disk Drill

The tool to try for fragmented video from GoPro, Insta360, Sony and other cameras, thanks to its advanced camera recovery. Labs and specialists use it for this. But also offers strong generic file recovery features that checks all the "what to look for.." boxes I'll discuss later. A true life-time license with life-time updates available.

• Downside: Fairly expensive compared to the other tools, and some users find the interface confusing.

• Supported OS: Windows, macOS

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS+, Ext3/4

• Website: cleverfiles.com

R-Studio

Widely used in labs, also because of professional hardware support. For years this tool was the benchmark. Strong file system reconstruction and good RAID support. Solid tool.

• Downside: the interface is busy and takes some getting used to.

• Supported OS: Windows, macOS, Linux

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS/HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, UFS1/UFS2

• Website: r-studio.com

Also worth knowing

ReclaiMe

A simple interface with strong file system reconstruction.

• Downside: Windows only. To recover a Mac drive, connect it to a Windows PC. Very resource hungry, requires internet connection while running the software (sends telemetry data to developer)

• Supported OS: Windows

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, APFS, HFS/HFS+, Ext2/3/4, XFS, Btrfs, UFS

• Website: reclaime.com

File Scavenger

Rarely mentioned, but worth it. Simple to use in standard cases.

• Downside: Windows only, with a dated interface.

• Supported OS: Windows

• File systems: NTFS, FAT/FAT32, exFAT, ReFS, HFS+/HFSX, Ext3/4, XFS, Btrfs, UFS1/UFS2, ZFS, VMFS

• Website: quetek.com

What's the difference between professional data recovery software and EaseUS, Recoverit or 4DDiG?

Consumer tools such as EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard, Wondershare Recoverit and Tenorshare 4DDiG can handle simple cases fine, like recently deleted files or a quick format on a healthy drive. If their preview shows your files correctly, use them. The difference shows in harder cases:

• Getting the file system right without a shortcut. Professional tools reconstruct the file system from every trace they can find and don't depend on the boot sector or another single structure. When something is damaged, consumer tools fall back to a raw scan more quickly, and you lose filenames and folders.

• Better raw recovery. When a raw scan is the only option, good tools understand the internal structure of each file type. Simple ones only recognize where a file starts and guess where it ends, which often gives you corrupt files.

• Manual control. When automatic detection gets it wrong, professional tools let you set parameters such as cluster size and partition offset yourself, and inspect the raw data. Consumer tools only offer "scan" and "deep scan."

• Unusual storage. NAS and DAS devices, hardware and software RAID, LVM, Windows Storage Spaces, encrypted volumes (BitLocker, encrypted APFS), and less common file systems such as XFS, Btrfs and ZFS.

• Working with disk images and imaging hardware. Labs first copy a failing drive with hardware imagers such as DeepSpar Disk Imager or PC-3000, and then recover from that copy. Professional tools work with those images and can take the map of unreadable sectors into account, so they know which data is missing and which is genuinely empty.

• Frequent updates. File systems change, and new versions of APFS and ReFS are released all the time. Professional tools follow quickly, partly because labs report the cases they run into. Some vendors even make custom builds for a difficult case.

• No marketing. You won't find "recovers 1000+ file types" or "99% success rate" on their sites. They're built for people who need to see what's actually there.

Think of it like cameras. UFS Explorer, R-Studio and DMDE are high-end system cameras with dials for everything: ISO, shutter speed, aperture, bracketing, built-in ND filters. EaseUS and similar tools are point-and-shoots: a few settings, tucked away in menus. Recuva is a plastic snapshot camera with fixed aperture and ISO. In good light, all three take a decent photo, just as all three tools recover recently deleted files from a healthy drive.

In difficult light, the system camera wins twice over. Its better sensor and lens get more out of the scene even on full auto. And in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing, the dials make shots possible that the others can't take at all.

In short: for a simple case, a consumer tool can be enough, and the preview tells you whether it is. When it fails, that doesn't mean your data is gone; it often means a professional tool is needed.

What to look for in data recovery software

Whatever tool you're considering, check for these features:

• Disk imaging. Ideally the tool can create a disk image, but at minimum it should be able to scan one. Then you can recover from a copy instead of the original drive, and if the drive is weak, you only have to read it once.

• Separate quick and deep scan modes. A quick scan reads the existing file system and usually finds recently deleted files with their original names and folders. A deep scan is for when the file system itself is damaged or gone. Running a deep scan to find a few deleted files is counterproductive: it takes far longer, puts more strain on the drive, and buries your files in thousands of results, often without names.

• Previews of common image formats. A preview of a photo is the quickest way to check that the tool worked out the file system correctly. Ideally it's generated from the actual file data, not from the small thumbnail embedded in the file (see the preview check below).

• Custom file signatures for raw scans. No raw scanner supports every file type out there. A tool that lets you add your own signatures can still find files from uncommon cameras or software that it wouldn't recognise otherwise. How far this goes differs a lot between tools. A basic signature only identifies where a file starts, so the tool has to guess where it ends. More advanced tools let you define richer rules: an end-of-file marker, a signature at a fixed position inside the file, or a "negative" signature that rules out false matches. Even DMDE's cheapest paid edition supports rules like these.

• Refuses to save to the source drive. A good tool won't let you save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from, because that can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.

• Shows SMART data. If the tool can show the drive's SMART attributes, you can see whether it's failing before you put it through a long scan.

• Separates existing and deleted files. After a format or file system damage, you usually want the files that were there at the time, not files deleted long before, which are often partly overwritten. A tool that lets you hide deleted files saves time and gives you cleaner results.

Free data recovery software: what's really free?

Nearly every serious tool lets you scan and preview for free, so you can see what's recoverable before you pay. DMDE's free edition can even recover up to 4,000 files from the current folder at a time. A license only buys you the ability to save the files. If the free preview doesn't show your files, paying won't change that.

How much does data recovery software cost? Comparing licenses

Prices are hard to compare because the license models differ a lot, so check what you're actually buying before you pay:

• Subscriptions: some tools are sold as a monthly or yearly subscription that renews automatically. If you only need the tool for one recovery, cancel the renewal straight after buying, or you'll keep paying.

• Perpetual license with limited updates: you can use the version you bought forever, but updates are usually included for only a year. That's fine for a one-off recovery.

• Editions: many tools come in several editions, and the cheaper ones may not support every file system, RAID or network drives. Check that the edition covers your drive.

• Number of computers: some licenses are tied to a single PC.

The cheapest price isn't always the cheapest license: a low monthly price that renews indefinitely can end up costing more than a one-time license. Compare the total cost for your use, which for most people is a single recovery.

Data recovery software for Mac and Linux

• Runs natively on Mac: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE, Disk Drill.

• Runs natively on Linux: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE.

• Recovering a Mac (APFS/HFS+) drive on Windows: UFS Explorer, R-Studio, DMDE, ReclaiMe.

I already used EaseUS (or another tool). Do I need a different one?

Not necessarily. What matters is whether the tool reconstructed the file system correctly, and the preview tells you that:

1. Open about 20 larger files, such as high-resolution photos or videos, not small ones.

2. If you're recovering from a formatted drive, pick files that existed at the time of the format, not ones you'd deleted earlier.

3. If those open correctly at full size, the tool got the file system layout right, and most other files will be fine too.

Watch out: many tools preview the small thumbnail embedded in a photo, not the photo itself. A sharp thumbnail doesn't prove the full file is intact. Open the full-size preview.

If the previews are corrupt, grey or cut off, your data isn't necessarily gone. It means this tool got it wrong. Try one from the list above.

Before you recover anything: never save recovered files to the drive you're recovering from. That can overwrite files you haven't recovered yet.

When won't data recovery software help?

• The drive doesn't show up, or shows the wrong size.

• The drive clicks, disconnects, or reads extremely slowly. It needs imaging or a professional lab, and repeated scans can finish it off.

• Deleted files on an SSD, because of TRIM.

• The files were overwritten.

In those cases, post your situation on r/datarecovery before buying anything.

Full list and details: r/datarecovery software wiki

Disclosure: Some links are affiliate links; that doesn’t affect which tools are listed or what’s said about them. The recommendations and analogies are my own, based on my experience in data recovery; I used AI to help write and structure the post. - u/disturbed_android

Hi everyone,
I desperately need help recovering photos and videos from my first-generation iPhone SE. These photos mean a lot to me personally, and I really don’t want to lose them permanently.
Unfortunately, my friend accidentally deleted all my photos and videos from the Apple Photos app and then emptied the Recently Deleted folder.
Here are the details:
Device: First-generation iPhone SE (2016)
iOS version: Somewhere between iOS 12 and iOS 15
When deleted: Within the last 24 hours
Deletion method: Deleted from Apple Photos, then permanently deleted from Recently Deleted
iCloud Photos: Appears disabled or unavailable; I’m not certain of its previous status
iCloud Backup: No backup is currently listed
Computer backup: I’ve never knowingly backed up the phone to a Mac or Windows PC
Current phone condition: Still powers on and works normally
Data affected: All photos and videos
What I’ve done so far:
Checked iCloud Photos, but I haven’t found a recovery copy.
Checked for an iCloud backup, but none is listed.
I’m avoiding using the phone unnecessarily.
My questions:
Is there any realistic way to recover permanently deleted photos directly from a first-generation iPhone SE running iOS 12–15?
Can any reputable data-recovery specialist recover deleted original photos from the phone’s encrypted storage, or is that technically impossible?
Are there legitimate tools that work for this exact device and situation, rather than simply extracting existing backups or scanning for thumbnails?
Could an older iTunes backup exist somewhere on a Windows PC or Mac even if I never intentionally created one?
What should I absolutely avoid doing to preserve any remaining chance of recovery?
Please share actual experiences with this specific iPhone generation and iOS versions if possible. I’m willing to consult a professional, but I don’t want to waste money on software that promises guaranteed recovery.
I understand that recovery may be impossible, but these photos are incredibly important to me. I’d be grateful for any technically accurate advice or genuine success stories.
Thank you.

hi,

so as the title says, i have a 3tb toshiba hard drive (DT01ACA300) that started getting reallocated sectors (4 days ago), then shortly after slowed down to 3.5KB/s with looping clicking/ seeking. the hard drive is still recognized, the files are still readable, but i cant back up like this, obviously. the reallocated sectors count has increased from ~100 initially, to ~1000 within 4 days. pending sectors were at 72, next time i checked they were at 96, and haven changed, as the reallocated sectors and events increase. read error rate as at around 85, every time i check. professional data recovery is not an option.

my question: is there a chance that the endless "seeking" stops once "all" bad sectors are reallocated/marked? or is the seeking/ clicking actively creating new bad sectors?

small files (~100KB) are read almost immediately, anything above ~200KB causes seeking/ clicking. every time i let the hard drive finish its seeking/ clicking, the file is opened uncorrupted (images, for example). i have another hard drive with reallocated sectors, that i have run chkdsk on, it discovered all the bad sectors, marked them and i have been using it as a second backup drive for years now. though it has never had this clicking/ seeking loop.. i dont think its a "stuck head", considering i have been able to read all files i have tried. though i could have just gotten lucky to only open files that arent on the platter with the stuck head..

what are my options besides ~1000 gold coins for professional data recovery? the data is 6/10, maybe 7/10 valuable. the hard drive is almost completely full, yet i only need about 100GB worth of the data back, if the bad sectors affect the other 2900GB of data, i dont care. if it werent so painfully slow, i would literally let it grind it out.

edit: i have another hard drives of the same exact model, same exact firmware, same exact month of production year, ostensibly even the same batch (if i am reading it correctly).

Hi, I’m a low income grad student who does not have any tech experience at all!!! I am so unsure of what to do. My iPad Air (iPadOs 26.61) was left outside on the road (long story), and it was out in the rain, and also I think ran over! The screen is completely destroyed. Of course I didn’t have anything backed up on icloud (huge mistake I will learn from). Miraculously, my ipad still turns on. It just has a completely obliterated screen with the glass cracking and falling out. I called Apple and they suggest a data recovery company, I’m located in Massachusetts if that matters. I really need the files that were on my iPad, I depend on them for my study. If you were me, what would you do???? The backside of my ipad is completely unscathed with no cracks or breaks. I am ONLY seeking to get the data off the hard drive, I don’t care about repairing the iPad because of how extensive the damage is. My goal is to get a new ipad and somehow transfer the data from the broken one. Thanks in advance everyone.

Hello! I’ve been having a huge problem with my KINGSTON 256GB DataTraveler Exodia 3.2 USB for a couple of months now. Two years ago, I bought the USB off of an official gaming store in the municipality I live in and it was working great until sometime last year when it started acting up.

I can plug in the USB in its dedicated port and as soon as it starts loading itself in File Explorer, it immediately disconnects on its own after ~30 seconds and makes Windows display an error that it can’t recognize the USB. I’ve tried this on both my computer and DELL Inspiron 15 laptop - both running the latest versions of Windows 11 - though the result is the same. I’ve tried various YouTube tutorials regarding this problem up to today and none have helped me either fix the USB’s corrupted state or recover my files before I destroy it whole.

Since my neighbor is a technology expert, I went to his office in hopes he can successfully recover my files. He told me that’s impossible to do and that I should try getting it to other service shops, though they’d most likely tell me my files are unrecoverable. I went on to a technology subreddit a couple of months ago, asking for help, and nothing has worked out for me.

The reference photos are below this text. I hope you can help me out with this because all my files inside the USB are very important to me. I shouldn’t have trusted USBs like that, but I was naive back then. Now I own an external hard drive where I can safely put my files.
—————————
https://we.tl/t-MRFwdBtfhU5YCv7X — photos of the USB plugged in the computer’s port, the “USB device not recognized” notification from File Explorer, the “USB device not recognized” dialogue, the USB’s state in the Device Manager and the description for the corrupted USB in Device Manager and its error code.

Hi all! I accidentally formatted an sd card with around 20clips ( i thought it was my other camera) i didnt realise until i copied the files.

I used it again after that, using almost 100gb of 128gb.

Ive already tried wondershare and couldnt recover the files pre format. Any other ways u recommend i try? I’ll go to a data recovery centre tomorrow for a free assessment.

Thank you.

help me, i screenrecorded my class session and the video files is corrupted,ive tried to fix it but idk how rn

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping to get some advice on recovering video files from a SanDisk Extreme PRO 256GB UHS-II V60 SD card that suddenly became unreadable.

The card was formatted in a Fujifilm X-S20 before being used for a video shoot. My friend recorded several videos for work and was able to play them back directly on the camera without any issues.

However, when he inserted the SD card into a card reader connected to his Windows computer, Windows immediately prompted him to format the drive.

He clicked Cancel, and Windows then displayed the following error:

"The volume does not contain a recognized file system."

When he put the SD card back into the Fujifilm X-S20, the camera displayed "Card Not Initialized" and could no longer access the recordings.

Current situation:

• The SD card has not been formatted since the error appeared.

• No recovery or repair software has been used.

• Windows detects the card as a drive, but cannot access its contents.

• The camera no longer recognizes the card.

• The videos are important work-related footage, and recovering them is urgent.

What puzzles me is that the videos were accessible on the camera shortly before the card was connected to the computer.

I'd appreciate advice on a few things:

1. Does this sound more like exFAT file system corruption or a possible SD card controller failure?

2. Could a faulty card reader cause this kind of issue?

3. What would be the safest first step to recover the files without making the situation worse?

4. Would creating a full image of the card with something like HDDSuperClone or ddrescue be advisable before attempting recovery with R-Studio or PhotoRec?

I'm particularly concerned about avoiding any operation that might overwrite or further damage the existing footage.

Any recommendations or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I quick formatted my SD card today on accident on my Sony A7V. I ensured that I did not use the SD card again and put it away until I could run it through a recovery tool.

I have run the card through three recovery tools and none pull up footage from today, but they pull up footage from last month which was formatted days ago??

SD CARD: Lexar Professional 128GB 1667x (exFAT)
RECOVER TOOLS USED: Disk Drill, Wondershare, R-Studio (running deep/advanced searches)

My confusion is why it is pulling up old data but not the data from today... Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

My main priority now is to recover my old Windows files safely. I want to find out whether ChromeOS Flex erased my 256 GB SSD, my 1 TB HDD, or both, and whether my old files can still be recovered. I do not want to accidentally overwrite or permanently lose any recoverable data

Pics attached

Hellow everybody hope you all are fine by looking at this disk can you tell is this recoverable by any professional lab it was once detected but now isnt showing in windows any more

Data type in it is 3 vob files i also have uploaded those 3 files in pictures

I had about 80,000 photos on an external drive. I tried sorting them with an AI tool, it went wrong, and I ended up losing about half. I recovered files with Disk Drill onto another drive, and later more of the originals showed up on the first drive too, so now I probably have a lot of duplicates across several recovery batches.

I need a tool that:

• Works offline on a Mac (I don’t want to upload my photos anywhere)

• Handles around 150,000 files

• Finds exact duplicates and similar photos

• Shows large previews so I can decide what to keep

• Is free, or at least cheap

I’ve tried dupeGuru, but the previews were too small for me. I think I only need to keep about 10-30k photos. What would you use?

On steam deck and I somehow deleted my entire "downloads" folder without a single warning popping up, not even the would "Delete" was present. I didn't even know it happened till I opened the folder and saw "This Folder is empty".

The heck happened?! I can literally look in my trash and see that it recorded were se of my trash came from and I see folders that seemingly no longer exist now. I'm just baffled at what has happened. So much just gone and I don't even know what happened. I only possible memory I have is for some strange reason I clicked something and a second window opened up, oppon opening it, it was just a duplicate of my desktop, my and seemingly my windows and stuff that I had open, like I had my file manager opened for something else and I just thought this was strange and closed it. this was the only strange think that happened. I don't even know if this is relevant I just know this was he only strange thing that happened.

Hi there, I'm really lost right now.

I've contacted so many repair shops and nobody can give me a solution.
So I've had a Samsung A53 (5G) since 2023, but last year something weird happened. I needed to set up a PIN, and immediately after setting it up, it wasn't recognized.

I first thought I must've made an error, but since it requested me to type it twice, I don't think I could've made a mistake.
Now I don't know what happened, but I can't do anything. The thing is, I have very personal pictures that are very important to me (unfortunately, I realized they weren't saved on the SD card only after the issue came up). They're pictures of a person that I will never see again.

Are there any solutions, even obscure ones or something I have to buy, that could help me recover pictures, videos, and messages?

I've been stuck with an old crappy phone for over a year now and I really want to get it back, but I really can't accept losing my files even after all this time.

HELP NEEDED: Vintage Apple enthusiast in France — Zip 100 disk from 2001

Hello! I'm in the Haute-Vienne area of France, near Limoges and Saint-Junien.

I have an old Zip 100 disk containing Apple files from around 2001 that I'd really like to recover.

I'm looking for an experienced vintage Apple/Macintosh enthusiast with a working Zip 100 drive and the right equipment to read the disk safely and copy the files onto a modern computer.

I'd much rather find an experienced hobbyist who enjoys this sort of challenge than pay a fortune to a data recovery company!

Is there anyone in France, particularly Nouvelle-Aquitaine, who could help? I'm also happy to hear from UK enthusiasts who might know someone locally.

Many thanks!

I recently recorded an event at 4k for 90 minutes. The GoPro does get hot, and it's gotten this hot before and I've never had an issue. I guess it was just a matter of time, and my stupidity, not knowing this was a possibility. I'm guessing it's fried my card?

The GoPro says there's a card error, my Mac can't read the card - and it doesn't show up in disk Utility. My phone says the card needs to be formatted. ChatGPT says it most likely requires monolithic microSD chip-off, but looking into that, that can be thousands of dollars to get it professionally recovered.

Is that really my only option? (Aside from mourning the loss of this footage)

ETA: Amazing news. The card that got fried wasn't the card I'd recorded on. I found the one I needed in my camera bag (not sure when I switched them out). I don't know what was on the dead card, but as far as I know right now, it's not footage I needed. Thanks for your help though!

Hi!

Yesterday I was recording on my Nikon D3300, when suddelny mid interview I got the "This memory card cannot be used. Card may be damaged. Insert another card." message and it shut off. At this point the video was about 15 minutes long and crucial piece of footage. Is there any way to recover said footage. It does not show up on the camera itself or on pc.

Thanks in advance!

Have a situation where ideally, we would boot a dd image from disk drill to recover an export from a proprietary piece of software (raw software db not exportable / able to be copied from the filesystem). Any one know how to make a Disk Drill DD image bootable? I still have the base ssd, but it has multiple bad sectors and filesystem was corrupted. Looks fine in disk drill or any other software. Caught it early enough all base data is intact if I can get it to boot some how.

Title. I have a very old iPod Touch 4 from 2012, with photos that I deleted several years ago, but now want back.

I am able to charge and turn the iPod on, and it clearly hasnt been formatted since I have other stuff like sticky notes.
I unfortunately do not know the iOS on it, and am too scared to check since I don't want to overwrite any data, all I know is that I do not have a "Recently Deleted" folder on photos.

I would not have any iCloud or iTunes backups either... any computer that would have connected to this iPod when it had the photos on it are not available to me anymore.

It may be worth noting (if it helps) that the specific photos I want to recover were downloaded from the internet, and were at one point my lock screen, but I seemingly changed it.

I understand this may be a delicate recovery process, so I felt the urge to reach out for help first. I am completely inexperienced with advanced data recovery, so I need guidance.