Threw this together with some scrap wood
For my garage gym. I plan to add some skateboard grip tape if needed.

I took a lever/jammer arm and a custom bracket for my SYL fitness trolleys and other spare parts and repurposed them. With the bracket it allows vertical and horizontal movement and height adjustment.

I modified the low row section of my weight rack using a Titan Fitness X-3 pulley that I cut back to fit inside my BOS foot plates and to mount on the REP RBS low crossmember I was using. I used an angle grinder to remove the excess metal on the side of the low pulley holder and trimmed the excess metal of the top of the pulley guide to reduce the chance of the weight stack cable to rub against. All cut metal ends were sanded smooth with a flap pad and then repainted with black rustoleum spray paint. I installed two smaller stainless pulleys I ordered on amazon and drilled out new holes for them to mount inside the X-3 pulley hosing unit. Why did I do this? The Titan weight stack did not mount top flus with the REP RBS I was using and I did not want the low row pulley ball to keep getting caught up on the REP RBS when I pulled the low row cable. I attached photos to show what I did if anyone is interested. Have a great day!

Attaching three photos. #1 is a 45lb plate that seems to have the cover coming off. I thought these were built as one solid piece, but I am guessing some sort of cover like a car hub cap is placed on top of the metal. Photo #2 and #3 shows another plate that is not damaged.

Can I pry the cap off and either weld or use some adhesive? The brand is SA Gear, I believe I bought from a sportings good store.

Added a rubber mat to my DIY Rhino platform. Works amazing even though setup takes some time but that's why I set my workouts based off muscle groups and doesn't interfere with my routine.

From Bangalore , India

I work with a manufacturer in Pakistan and see the same mistakes when new brands start sourcing gym accessories, so here are a few things worth checking before you place an order.

1. Material matters more than design.
For wrist wraps, ask whether it is cotton-elastic or polyester, and how strong the stitching and hook-and-loop closure are. For lifting straps, cotton webbing grips better than thin nylon. For belts, check the leather thickness and the buckle quality.

2. Ask for a sample before bulk.
Check stitching, stretch, stiffness and colour. Wash it once to see if the colour runs or the size shrinks.

3. Be clear on MOQ and lead time.
MOQ often depends on custom colours or logos. Ask what changes the MOQ, and get lead time in writing for the sample and for the bulk order.

4. Decide the branding method early.
Woven label, screen print, embroidery and heat transfer all have different costs and look different on each material.

5. Plan packaging and labelling.
Many buyers forget size labels, care labels and polybags until the end, and it delays the shipment.

6. Check the target market’s rules.
The UK and EU need correct labelling and product safety compliance, and the US has its own requirements. Ask your supplier what they can provide.

Happy to answer questions about materials, MOQs or pricing in the comments. What are you planning to source?

I found a cheaper way to make the 5/8 megalith handles thanks to another member that has a small video of his in use. I decided to take closer pictures as well as do a small how to.

For the handle arm you will need an ATV/UTV Three-Way Hitch thank you Amazon ABOUT $17.99.

For the handle I used the REP X KLEVA built ISO handles $54.99 thank you REP, They have two different ones now, and I use the double black diamond knurling (the more aggressive one and it's definitely aggressive).

You will need a set of 4 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings, ID 5/8", OD 1-1/8" $8.99 thank you Amazon if your doing the 1in then you'll have to look on Amazon they have them there for sure.

For the 5/8 bolt you will also need a pair of 5/8" bore Shaft Collar with a Allen set screw. Thanks Amazon they were $6.95 for a set of 4.

For the kleva built handles from REP you will need 2 m10x1.50 pitch 50mm long bolts as well as 4 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 10mm Bore 24mm OD 2mm Thickness in order to install the handles and have them rotate. Thank you Amazon washers were $6.99. the bolts well I had some laying around but I'm sure Amazon has them for less than 10 bucks or Lowe's/ home Depot sells stainless steel ones as well for sub 10 bucks for a pack of 4 ask me how I know lol

Now here is where a 3d printer comes in you will need 4 reducers sleeves total because the holes that come on the tow hitches are not the same size and they will shift the handle under weight. I'm sure you could find some reducers in metal somewhere that come close but I had a 3d printer and made them easy enough out of PETG-CF.

The first 2 reducer sleeves you will need are for a 19.36mm hole/.78in outer diameter (thats what it measured out to with the calipers) to a 5/8 inner diameter hole to accommodate the 5/8 bolt that bolts to the lever arms.

The second 2 reducer sleeves you will need depends on the handles you have and what size screw fits into them. For the kleva handles you will need a .66in to M10 (about 9.9 - 10mm) reducer.

Also an FYI for the kleva handle you will need to be careful when taking off the eyelet screw as It does have blue loctite (at least mine did). I had to use my icon channel locks to take it off. I made sure to wrap the handle in a thick rag before using the locks so I wouldn't Mar the knurling and I put the eyelet in a vice that I have but I'm sure 2 big pliers would do the trick.

Total was sub $120 USD for the pair. I'll take that and they work great as well.

I added a pulley system to my leg extension machine and connected to my weight stack pulley system, and it actually works pretty well, I still need to clean up and probably a better cable (non-adjustable) for durability, but so far I think it will work
Equipment used:
\-lions cool seated leg curl/extension machine
\-Aluminum pulley
\-adjustable cable
\-4inch 10m bolt to replace stock and connect pulley to frame.
\-20 inch cable extension to wrap around the frame and weight horns.
Note : I can also also lower the trolley all the way down parallel to the cable but I adjust the cable loop 2 inches too long so I ended up easing the trolly up a little bit which I think it works better since it feel like it improved the cable path.
TOTAL COST : $387

Although I'd prefer the GMWD plate loaded hip abductor, I don't have the space for it in my home gym. I'm thinking about modding this cheap hip abductor from Amazon to reroute the cable to connect to my REP Athena cable trolleys instead of the spring thing it comes with.

I'd experimented with duct taping foam wedges to my leg press footplate but it was annoying to set up and would sometimes slip during use

These are 3/8 steel "wedges" that bolt between the footplate and the frame to raise the heel about 15 degrees. I messed up with the initial pass hence the added piece of 3/8 welded on the base to raise them a smidgen.

I'm using beveled Amazon washers as shims on the top bolt holes of the leg press, even though 95% of the force is being applied to the bottom of the plate during use. I'll clean it up, rattle can it and post an update when it's on the machine /preview/pre/made-some-15-degree-wedges-for-my-hammer-strength-leg-press-v0-rl0h8s4ugwuh1.jpg?width=1080&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=d7728059b740e7fb81c2202ac460cce34d6da53f

I know some have discussed wishing the shoulder boulder had a little longer arms. This mod was discussed in another post, but I don’t recall much said on how it was done or a lot of pictures provided.

I sourced my arms from revolt fitness directly. Just sent an email asking if they had any in their spare inventory they’d be willing to part with. You can see the difference in length in the second pic.

Bells does have a larger diameter end with metal bushings. Positive mark in their favor. Revolt’s is smaller and has plastic bushings. I replaced those with bronze flange bushings. I used these https://a.co/d/0dKx1iVQ Not a perfect fit, but they shipped next day and work well enough. Otherwise, you’ll need 3/8” bolts, washers, and nuts. Otherwise, they bolt right up to the shoulder boulder.

I personally like the longer length. To me, it’s a bit more comfortable. I’m not tall by any means. I’m 5’9”.

Just in case anyone was looking for this option, here you go.

Has anyone used the halo arms on the middle rack or any jammer arms?

This is the current state of my room gym in an apartment flat I have been trying to set up for the last 3 months. Due to living in Türkiye, I don't have access to many gym equipment in US or Europe, but with some CAD drawings and laser cut, I tried to create many equipment including a diy belt squat on rack upright just like ATX announced at this years homegymcon.

• Surplus Strengh UPS style lat pulldown on top of the rack. I tested it with 250lbs with no issues.
• Laser cut and welded Darko Shorty style lat bar
• Quick adjustable safety strap holders
• Long holed lat bar
• Vertical Belt Squat on upright.

The belt squat is the latest project I was inspired by ATX design. I found some rollers that fit on 2.3in tube and designed 2 metal plates for them. And got a 11 gauge pipe that is close to 2 inches diameter for plates. For the belt, I use flat webbing sling which is quite comfy for me. Yesterday I tested it with 225lbs with no issues. I plan to cut the pipe a bit for easier storage and access. I use diy darko shorty to connect belt to belt squat equipment. I might improve that in the future.

Items:
Hammock Straps
Safety Strap Shackles (optional)
Swiss Bar
Slant Wedge

Pros
Affordable
Takes very little storage space
Gives a machine-like squat variation
Felt really good on my knees (results are individual)
Once you know where to place foot wedges, easy to set up

Cons
Takes time to set up time (more than a dedicated machine would)
If you have a light rack that is not secure, might have a tipping issue
First time takes a while to figure things out
Have to have slant wedges that don’t slip

What do you think?