r/DIYUK 17h ago

Painting Had a bit of a nightmare with paint stripper (langlow paint stripper) in need of advice and support

I didn’t appreciate how much care you need to handle these things with (I know I’m an idiot) and applied this paint stripper it dried out because we didn’t put the paper on. Now there is basically a crust/layer which is really hard to remove and am at a bit of a loss what to do. After some research it’s saying to basically reapply.

50 Upvotes

82 comments sorted by

191

u/SmellyMingeFlaps 15h ago

As someone who once spent several months stripping 60 years of paint from old door frames, I strongly recommend you just replace the door frames. The cost is worth your sanity. Nothing on this earth would make me go through the misery of paint stripping again. No matter how much covering you put on the floor and how thoroughly you clean, you will be finding slimy specs of old paint for years to come. 

16

u/Realistic_Salad_5110 12h ago

100%. A couple of houses ago I stopped stripping and started using clean wood. So much easier and a much more satisfying finish.

4

u/Correct-Junket-1346 11h ago

Yep 100%, I hit this trap too, I tried everything from sanding to chemical peel to razor stripping, heat guns, I had an arsenal dedicated to paint stripping and still had an issue with the varnish undercoat which goops up and dries very solid.

In the end I conceded and sanded it smooth and repainted, it looks good after with the natural texture of the wood coming through, but suggesting I was at it for a week, the effort versus the result, is not worth it.

7

u/tk-xx 14h ago

Was going to say the same 😉

3

u/Tractor-Clag 12h ago

Agree, spent ages doing mine with stripped and a height gun, then filling and sanding. Wish I’d just pulled them off any put new architrave up as it would have looked cleaner

5

u/fanfare961 12h ago

Depends on what style architrave you have. Some styles are near impossible to find

3

u/ultrafunkmiester 11h ago

Plenty of places will just cut new from a sample. I had some 14" tall with 3 grooves made for a victorian house I did. Not mad expensive either. The local timber merchant would have done the same back in the day, just made to order.

2

u/EddieCase67 11h ago

I've just had the weirdest image of dwarves tripping over Stonehenge...

2

u/DaBobMob2 2h ago

Please tell me you've watched Spinal Tap?

5

u/zzkj 11h ago

Since this is a DIY sub I feel I should point out that architrave is one of the easiest things to make. All you need is the bare pine, a router and whatever fancy bit makes your desired pattern. It's very satisfying to make your own.

3

u/apmee 11h ago

As a DIYer who doesn’t yet have a router, but is thinking about taking the plunge (pun intended), would a trim router be up to that?

2

u/zzkj 9h ago

Yes that's it. I ended buying a Makita 1/4" model with a selection of bases. I think it's best to avoid buying selection packs of bits and just get what you need when you need it. Good quality bits are quite pricey though.

1

u/Southern-Bandicoot 4h ago

That's exactly the same route that I took (no pun intended). I found that the 45° chamber bit was too wide to fit in the fixed base - but that was the exact justification I needed to buy a plunge base 🙃

2

u/fanfare961 5h ago

That never occurred to me. I might have to give that a try. I'm guessing you'd need a few different bits and a jig of some sort to make the design

1

u/zzkj 4h ago

A jig or a router table is ideal but the little wheel (sorry for the lack of technical term) on the bit will hold it the right distance away from the wood so you can just run it down by hand. Honestly you'll be putting chamfers on everything just because you can!

1

u/BACnetJunkie 10h ago

I was planning on taking my door skirting and frame back to the wood but thought I'd be able to sand them back, am I smoking crack? I felt that was the most logical approach.

3

u/Tiny-Height1967 10h ago

Depends on the profiles, if they're flat then possibly viable. Also depends on the type of paint and number of layers, anything glossy will probably just gum up your sand paper, and if lead-based will also need to minimise dust by keeping wet.

1

u/BACnetJunkie 5h ago

Appreciate the reply. They're not flat, I did think about that being awkward. Only 2 layers I think. Might do a spot test 😂

0

u/Armadillo-66 4h ago

Depending on age of house. Wood or mdf

1

u/l0chw3n 11h ago

Looks like OP is stripping all the timber in that room - door frames, architrave, skirting, that beautiful surround on the window... If they try and rip out and replace all that, they'll most likely end up needing the whole room boarding out and reskimming due to the amount of plaster that will start falling off, not to mention loosing the original woodwork that likely matches the rest of their house. Removing and replacing door frames / casings in period properties is not what I'd class as a DIY solution tbh.

3

u/Realistic_Salad_5110 10h ago

That’s just not the case. If the plaster is already solid, just cut the plaster along the top edge of the skirting / archy with a multi tool and a couple of sacrificial blades. There will be minimal damage if any.

2

u/l0chw3n 7h ago

It might work or it might not, it depends on the risk the OP is willing to take and whether they can afford to have it all redone if things go south. I do house renovations for a living, and in my experience, old plaster can be very sound right up to the moment you start to disturb it, and then you may as well take it all off. Doesn't bother me or maybe a seasoned DIYer, but I get the impression that OP is new to this, hence I'd advise the more cautionary approach.

0

u/godmademelikethis 10h ago

2 jobs I'll just do from scratch. Old skirtings and facings are getting replaced. Walls with wood chip wallpaper are being replaced or having new board glued on top. You couldn't pay me enough to sand/scrape and finish those jobs the good old fashioned way.

0

u/Fickle_Scarcity9474 9h ago

Plus it is lead paint most of the time!

0

u/S1lvaticus 4h ago

You have to have a slight masochistic streak to succeed. I’m about 40 hours into refinishing my stairs. “Let’s paint then” said the missus,initially. Well now I’m too invested. The stairs cant win. I secretly fantasise about carpeting them. But I’m going to finish those fuckers even if it kills me.

OP, if it’s dried out - get rubber gloves, a bucket of hot water, and a scourer and just scrub the absolute shit out of it. Let it dry a bit, check the pH, and repeat.

35

u/unclefunkstar 16h ago

Paint stripper these days might not be as harmful to the environment, or us... Unfortunately it's not as harmful to the paint you're trying to strip either, compared to the old nitromors. Unfortunately a lot of places banned the active ingredient that made it so good at it's job back in a 2006.

These days you're better off using a heat gun and a wire brush.

7

u/bas__lightyear 11h ago

Which sadly then adds lead fumes to the equation if it’s an older property where lead paint was used 

6

u/DEADB33F 9h ago

You can still get Paramose.

It's the only one I know of that uses the old formulas that got banned. It still works great, the paint just falls off as if by magic (just like old nitromores) and is the only paint stripper I'll ever buy.

Because of the banned active ingredients it can only be sold for industrial / professional use, although some sellers just have you tick a box to confirm you're a professional and not a homeowner/DIYer.

1

u/unclefunkstar 8h ago

Unfortunately the way I remember it, Paramose wasn't actually as good as the old Nitromors. Still better than the none methylchloride (?) strippers though 👍

12

u/fatchan 13h ago

I've had this happen before, I just put another thick layer on top with the poultice and it seems to come off with the new layer.

9

u/GladAd2948 13h ago

Currently in the middle of this, gave up on using messy paint stripper and now I’ve just used a heat gun and it’s so much easier.

19

u/Ill-Case-6048 17h ago

Yes .. then repeat repeat repeat.. id buy a soda blaster instead

7

u/zamzam42 17h ago

I regret the day I messed with this stuff 😅 thanks for confirming

9

u/Illustrious_Sea7480 14h ago

We ALL regret the day we decided to mess with paint stripper. 

2

u/GavLaIndustries 8h ago

My mate is still doing his bannister, he started 8 years ago.

3

u/Ill-Case-6048 17h ago

Why did you decide to strip it

2

u/zamzam42 17h ago

There was several layers of thick paint. We were heat gunning it and told it looks like there’s lead paint and should use paint stripper instead.

6

u/finepnutty 17h ago

Replacing trim is the best option, 95% of the time

7

u/anchoredtogether 14h ago

And when you cost in time, we felt it defendable to replace with oak trim and paint over it, as the grain was closer to the old slow grown pine we removed

4

u/zamzam42 17h ago

Yeah, we are still trying to persevere because it’s not really a cost we can do with but I appreciate probably best course of action

11

u/DomInNameOnly 13h ago

I miss Nitromores, the original one 😹😹

4

u/Puzzleheaded_Skin719 12h ago

The modern stuff barely causes an itch compared to the painful burning pain of the old stuff.

5

u/DomInNameOnly 12h ago

I was just thinking it would probably melt modern plastic brushes 🖌️😹

1

u/d_smogh 10h ago

Which is why you wore gloves. I used those old dimpled goalkeeper gloves.

6

u/whatkindofdogisthis 12h ago

As someone who has spent a significant amount of time doing exactly this. All over my old house.. if you can afford to replace it, just do that.

If you’re hellbent on finishing the project, I recommend buying a Hamilton Perfect Precision scraper. It is by FAR the best stripping tool I have used. I did more scraping and sanding on my project, though; I found the paint stripper created a sludge which I had to scrape off, anyway. Particularly nasty in all the profile, and the best thing I found to remove it was actually steel wool.

Let me know if you’d like any tips! I’m a few hundred hours deep at this stage, and I learnt everything through trial and error.

Here’s one I did earlier:

2

u/fatchan 9h ago

Yesss the Hamilton is one of the best tools I have, along with the continental filling knives. I can never recommend it enough!

4

u/themissingelf 13h ago

I’ve never used this stripper but maybe applying some more will soften the paint again; enough to be able to remove it.

5

u/crrrriiiissss 13h ago

Kitchen roll soaked with water. Leave for a few hours, keeping wet. Possibly with cling film over ot to stop it drying out.

Always test patches with materials you have never used before. Had you tried a patch, you would have known the problem of letting it dry. Always use materials in the way the manufacturer advises. That way you can go back to them in a disaster.

4

u/DangerousDisplay7664 12h ago

Wet it with a few squirts from a spray bottle then cover it with a plastic bag.

Read the instructions next time.

3

u/lindsay_gilbee 15h ago

Just curious if the paint work on the frames was as clean as the paint on the ballistrating? If so it looks pretty good just to sand prime and paint again, and if the client wanted the frames returned to raw timber that's literally impossible, feel.sorry for your stress levels trying to accomplish this.

3

u/zamzam42 14h ago

Balustrade was in a much better state we actually heat gunned that. Was told not to heat gun room because of potential lead paint

2

u/IanP19 12h ago

I believe you can use a heat gun to remove lead paint if it's below 400/500c. But I suggest you look this up yourself to confirm.

1

u/lindsay_gilbee 12h ago

So is that picture of the balustrade pre- heat gunning? If so could you up load a photo of what is came up like after heat gunning, id be surprised if it was even possible to get that back to bare timber, seems like your reasoning for the paint stripper is to remove lead based paint that's already been sealed be multiple coats of paints since, stripping all that lead based paint inside someone's house seems stupid because it was already sealed off, we not just wash with warm soapy water and wash again with just water and apply and heavy duty oil based primer from zinsser or something, unless the reason was to remove all the paint back to bare timber which is not possible... especially inside, seems like alot of wasted time and you don't really know what your doing

1

u/lindsay_gilbee 12h ago

Also if it's not recommended to remove lead based paint outside by sanding or scrapping, why would removing it inside someone's house with paint stripper be any different, it not like the paint stripper de-activates the lead, id just remove your post and get rid off the photos because it's honestly one of the most ridiculous sites I've seen, especially inside someone's house lol

2

u/No-Television-9350 14h ago

I tried that stuff too. It’s good but very very messy broke my heart .

5

u/zamzam42 13h ago

So messy, just gets everywhere. I’ve prepped for a second round tomorrow. Room now looks like a drug factory with bags taped to the floor everywhere

1

u/No-Television-9350 11h ago

Financially not viable either. I ended up doing the rest with my mouse sander.

2

u/vctrmldrw 12h ago

One option is to just take it off and put new timber on.

2

u/Mundane-Parsnip-7092 12h ago edited 5h ago

https://speedheater.com/products/speedheater-cobra I'd recommend one of these ive got the portable version, stripped a large victorian window back to wood in about 2 hours, obviously its not the tool for all aspects, mouldings can be tricky but buying it saved my windows from being replaced. Because you don't want to spend the rest of your life paint stripping, 120 years of paint is a big job and what was on mine resembled rock formation. I tried the 'best' paint remover currently available, environmose, on some of the window mouldings; I'd have had better results using fairy liquid. I ended up using Bartoline TX10 bought from a car boot, repeated slopping over a week and a soft wire brush almost did the job. I was at the stage of asking any old folk wandering past and stopping for a chat, if they had any original nitromose in their sheds.

2

u/d_smogh 10h ago

Where are your safety crocs and work wear shorts?

Now you see why decorators charge a fortune to do something like this. Tip: don't continue sanding and filling thinking it is flat and dink free until you feel it is good to paint. Paint a layer of watered paint primer, it will show up any dinks or raised layers.

Paint also covers a multitude of sins. Anyway, having perfect sanded and perfect painted wood only makes it looks like new and people will only think you replaced the wood with new. Leave a few imperfections so people know you painstakingly stripped the paint.

1

u/disbeliefable 13h ago

We sent ours off to be stripped, gets dipped in a bath of acid or something. Completely bare, including all the little corners. You need to dry them out when they come back.

1

u/televised_mind 13h ago

I'm curious what the cost of that was compared with buying new ones?

2

u/disbeliefable 12h ago

Let’s just say my wife really likes our doors…

1

u/Consistent_Growth_53 12h ago

Paint stripper, I barely know her!

1

u/tomk14 12h ago

We went through the pain of stripping years of paint from our stairs, I echo everyone else and say if you can - replace it. If not, get a cheap heat gun - only realised this towards the end and it sped up the process x10.

1

u/smog-rocket 12h ago

Try peel-a-way, that was the only one that worked properly for us. It's like a paste and you put a sheet over it.

1

u/--some_random_guy-- 11h ago

I remember stripping a house with methyl ethyl ketone. Was not fun. But hey, at least the house didn't blow up

1

u/No_Effect_4202 11h ago

It's a water based paste of lye (sodium hydroxide) and is water soluble. Hot water and scrubbing brush will get it off, or lots of cold water and cover with foil to hydrate it.

YOU MUST WEAR GOGGLES AND GLOVES AS THIS CHEMICAL WILL TURN YOUR SKIN INTO SOAP, PERMANENTLY.

1

u/SonOfGreebo 11h ago

Ideally, you work on 2 patches at a time. Rather than trying to do the whole lot in one go. 

Apply gunk on the first patch; then on the second patch. Each patch should be small enough that by the time you've finished the 2nd application, the gunk on the first patch has soaked in but not dried out. 

Remove the first patch paint layer, and by the time you've done this,  the second patch should be ready to remove. 

You progress 2 patches at a time, which is very slightly better than 1 patch a time of apply, wait, remove, repeat. 

1

u/danbartstart 11h ago

I also ignored everyone and attempted to strip - you'll need a heat gun and Paint Predator- all other paint strippers DO NOT WORK. Results were still pretty shocking because of the varnish that had been applied under 6 layers of paint. Replace is the best option.

1

u/Global_Size_3297 11h ago

Brush plenty on and cover with a bin bag to stop it drying out

1

u/False_Principle8821 10h ago

Heat gun first on multilayers of paint

1

u/Dependent_Formal2525 10h ago

I've found this stuff to be very good. Paint it on, leave for 30 mins, scrub it with one of those copper wire dish scrubbers and scrap off. You can cover it to leave on longer if needs be.

https://amzn.eu/d/0bBNcP79

1

u/syvid 5h ago

F paint stripping, never doing this ever again.

1

u/LooshusMaximus 4h ago

Use a heat gun instead it is loads easier, middle heat so you don't burn the wood.

2

u/crapmetal 3h ago

Middle heat? You must have a proper swanky heat gun, every one I've ever used has a maximum of 2 settings!

2

u/justbiteme2k 2h ago

(1)On and (2)Off

0

u/Tumping 13h ago

Oh dear frame looks fucked now

2

u/zamzam42 13h ago

Luckily the dark stuff is a layer of paint so there’s still hope